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Perspective Correcting Lens
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May 15, 2016 03:10:15   #
rlscholl Loc: California
 
This may help to explalin the difference between tilt and shift:
http://cow.mooh.org/projects/tiltshift/howdoesitwork.html

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May 15, 2016 05:34:33   #
Leitz Loc: Solms
 
Bobspez wrote:
In regard to AI-ing the lens. I took a look at the Nikkor 50mm 1.4 that I AI-ed and realized that the grinding was done to make about 1/4 of the black metal collar protruding from the silver metal mounting collar with the 3 mounting flanges, flush with the silver metal mounting collar. That part of the black metal collar prevented the lens from mounting all the way to the click on my D7000. Looking at the PC Nikkor 3.5 there is no protruding black collar, just the silver metal mounting collar with the 3 mounting collar. There is nothing to grind. I am at a loss to see what is preventing the lens from mounting on the D7000 all the way to the click. It only mounts about half way then can't turn further, just like the 50mm 1.4 did before I AI-ed it.
In regard to AI-ing the lens. I took a look at the... (show quote)

Without examining it and the two cameras, I have no idea why that lens would mount on your D3100 and not on your D7000. If you are unable to find the reason, you probably should take it to a competent repair technician.
Quote:
I don't understand what the aperture ring being at the front of the lens barrel has to do with mounting the lens.

On a non-AI lens, the aperture ring carries the prong which engages the metering pin on the camera, which you index manually to allow open-aperture metering. With an AI lens, a projection on the aperture ring contacts the metering pin and automatically indexes it when the lens is mounted.
With a preset lens, there is no such communication with the camera, and only stop-down (working aperture) metering is possible.

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May 15, 2016 11:50:42   #
Bobspez Loc: Southern NJ, USA
 
Based on the article, shift controls perspective, and tilt controls the area in focus. So for the OP's purposes of getting trees to all be vertical in a panorama it seems he only would use shift.

The early Nikkor 3.5 PC lens (shift only) was developed for perspective control. (PC=perspective control) so it is the least expensive lens for the job at about $200 on ebay (although post processing is still cheaper). I have more than a half dozen ebay pre-ais, non-ais nikkor flm lenses that are all manual on my d3100. No metering, no autofocus. But on stationary subjects like flowers or landscapes or architecture, etc. you can take several test shots with different manual settings and see which looks best while shooting.

I have observed that all of these pre-ais film lenses mount with no problem on my consumer grade D3100 but none mount on my pro grade d7000 unless they are AI-ed. The AI process is not too difficult with a dremel tool and a grinding bit, and takes about 20 minutes. Cutting the AI notch into the black metal collar that protrudes from the back of the lens allows the non-ais or pre-ais lens to behave like an ais lens and mount on the d7000. The Nikkor PC 3.5 film lens is an anomaly in that it doesn't have a black protruding collar so nothing to notch, but still doesn't mount on the d7000. So I will only use it with my D3100.

The OP doesn't say what camera he has but for others who may wish to try out the Nikkor PC 3.5 shift lens or any other pre-ais, non-ais nikkor film lenses (which are generally avilable on ebay for 1/3 the cost, or less, of the electronic versions) these lenses will mount but not meter or autofocus, and work in manual mode on the following Nikkor DSLR's: D40, D40x, D60, D3000, D3100, D3200, D5000, D5100, D5200, as per the following lens chart.
http://www.bythom.com/lensacronyms.htm

They presumably will not mount (unless AI-ed) on any other Nikon DSLR models. Once the lenses are AI-ed they will mount but not meter on any Nikon DX or FX dslr.

Bob


rlscholl wrote:
This may help to explalin the difference between tilt and shift:
http://cow.mooh.org/projects/tiltshift/howdoesitwork.html

Reply
 
 
May 15, 2016 14:11:36   #
Sam555
 
I just picked up a long wanted 90 mm T&S for product photography and that has me revisiting my 24 MM T&S.

I can verify using the shift feature will give you a real nice, and VERY easy to do pano. The pano will be appox 1.6 X on the long side. It's dirt simple to do and as long as the camera real close to level you won't lose but maybe a smidgen from misalignment.

Capturing an image in portrait mode and shifting will also give you a great image very close to an 4/5 ratio, minor cropping, only with more pixels and a wider view that possible with only one image.

I will be testing this with added tilt. These lenses are very sharp wide open and edge to edge sharpness, and can create high quality images even without the exotic tilt or shift.

Sam

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May 15, 2016 16:47:39   #
Bobspez Loc: Southern NJ, USA
 
Hope you get to post some sample images here. "A picture is worth a thousand words."

Sam555 wrote:
I just picked up a long wanted 90 mm T&S for product photography and that has me revisiting my 24 MM T&S.

I can verify using the shift feature will give you a real nice, and VERY easy to do pano. The pano will be appox 1.6 X on the long side. It's dirt simple to do and as long as the camera real close to level you won't lose but maybe a smidgen from misalignment.

Capturing an image in portrait mode and shifting will also give you a great image very close to an 4/5 ratio, minor cropping, only with more pixels and a wider view that possible with only one image.

I will be testing this with added tilt. These lenses are very sharp wide open and edge to edge sharpness, and can create high quality images even without the exotic tilt or shift.

Sam
I just picked up a long wanted 90 mm T&S for ... (show quote)

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May 15, 2016 17:40:57   #
Sam555
 
OK Bob,

I need to post this all over again. :-(

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May 15, 2016 17:52:06   #
Sam555
 
PLEASE NOTE!!! These are only for test purposes. They are not meant for Architectural digest. :-)

1. is one vertical image:


2. is the 3 image vertical pano:


3. a single landscape image:


4. is the 3 image shit pano:









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May 15, 2016 18:16:02   #
Bobspez Loc: Southern NJ, USA
 
Thanks Sam. All images appear sharp and all the vertical and horizontal lines are straight except for the vertcal edges of the left and right most pics on the side walls. Since the door on the right side wall is in perspective I wonder if the two pics are an issue of perspective wider than a certain angle of view or if they are not hung flush to the wall? Thanks for posting.

Bob

Sam555 wrote:
PLEASE NOTE!!! These are only for test purposes. They are not meant for Architectural digest. :-)

1. is one vertical image:


2. is the 3 image vertical pano:


3. a single landscape image:


4. is the 3 image shit pano:

Reply
May 15, 2016 18:34:24   #
Sam555
 
Bobspez wrote:
Thanks Sam. All images appear sharp and all the vertical and horizontal lines are straight except for the vertcal edges of the left and right most pics on the side walls. Since the door on the right side wall is in perspective I wonder if the two pics are an issue of perspective wider than a certain angle of view or if they are not hung flush to the wall? Thanks for posting.

Bob


Bob,

The pictures on the wall are not really straight, and you can find distortion on the very left and right when shifting too far. Although it can shift 12 degrees only about 10 degrees is usable.

Any time your in a small space and using any kind of wide angle lens warping / distortion and perspective will be an issue.

Again this was a simple test of concept. If I were getting big bucks for a shot like this, small room, I would use a wide angle lens say a Canon 11-24, or a 17 mm if that's all I had. 24mm Isn't really wide enough for a house / room this small.

The idea here was to see if a quick and simple shift would provide some additional image not readily available without a wider lens or a dedicated pano head.

I think for many types of images and situations this is very usable. No additional gear to carry and set up, or maybe you don't have any other gear and need to make it work. Quick and fast additional image data and pixels.

I guess the bottom line is I like to know what my equipment can or can not do.

Sam

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May 16, 2016 10:48:44   #
Bobspez Loc: Southern NJ, USA
 
Thanks Sam,
I enjoy testing my lenses and cameras as well. Like most pursuits, photography combines art and science. I like both aspects.
Bob
Sam555 wrote:
Bob,

The pictures on the wall are not really straight, and you can find distortion on the very left and right when shifting too far. Although it can shift 12 degrees only about 10 degrees is usable.

Any time your in a small space and using any kind of wide angle lens warping / distortion and perspective will be an issue.

Again this was a simple test of concept. If I were getting big bucks for a shot like this, small room, I would use a wide angle lens say a Canon 11-24, or a 17 mm if that's all I had. 24mm Isn't really wide enough for a house / room this small.

The idea here was to see if a quick and simple shift would provide some additional image not readily available without a wider lens or a dedicated pano head.

I think for many types of images and situations this is very usable. No additional gear to carry and set up, or maybe you don't have any other gear and need to make it work. Quick and fast additional image data and pixels.

I guess the bottom line is I like to know what my equipment can or can not do.

Sam
Bob, br br The pictures on the wall are not reall... (show quote)

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May 16, 2016 13:37:46   #
wattsimages
 
melismus wrote:
I am developing an adapter to mount full-frame SLR lenses on mirrorless APS-C or smaller. In its present version it provides 8 degrees of tilt and 12 mm of shift in all directions independently. Finally a vitally important use for all your precious legacy glass.

In my experience, perspective control is not just for specialty stuff such as architecturals. The majority of shots I take can benefit.

I want to bring this invention to market. Prospective partners, please PM me and tell what experience you might bring to the enterprise.

Blessings,

Paul
I am developing an adapter to mount full-frame SLR... (show quote)



Hi Paul
I have a similar adapter
http://www.hartblei.de/en/whatsnew.htm

And I would be very interested in yours. There are a few annoying things about this adapter that could be better.

Please keep us updated on your progress.

Reply
 
 
May 16, 2016 15:57:12   #
melismus Loc: Chesapeake Bay Country
 
Hi, Watts,

I studied German in school but that was over 70 years ago, so I cannot really read your link, and I do not know what adapter you are talking about. I am most interested to know what it is, and to know what it is that you do not like about it.

We are in discussion with a manufacturer of photographic specialty items, hoping to reach a licensing agreement. Sorry to say, these things take time.

Tell me what lenses you want to mount, and to what camera body.

Best regards,

Paul

[quote=wattsimages]Hi Paul
I have a similar adapter
http://www.hartblei.de/en/whatsnew.htm

And I would be very interested in yours. There are a few annoying things about this adapter that could be better.

Please keep us updated on your progress.[/Hi

Reply
May 16, 2016 17:02:54   #
wattsimages
 
[quote=melismus]Hi, Watts,

I studied German in school but that was over 70 years ago, so I cannot really read your link, and I do not know what adapter you are talking about. I am most interested to know what it is, and to know what it is that you do not like about it.

We are in discussion with a manufacturer of photographic specialty items, hoping to reach a licensing agreement. Sorry to say, these things take time.

Tell me what lenses you want to mount, and to what camera body.

Best regards,

Paul[/Hi[/quote]
Hi Paul

Here is an review on the adapter that I have.
http://www.imaging-resource.com/news/2014/08/14/hartblei-introduces-hcam-master-ts-14-24mm-tilt-shift-optic-for-sony-e-moun

I bought the T/S adapter (Canon to Sony FF E mount) and it was $500 +/-. it works but...
1. The shift could be easier more accurate.
2. there is no center stop. If the camera is up high it is hard to tell when you are centered.
3. it only tilts in one direction.

I do like...
1. The adapter mounts to the tripod. (This is a must because it allows the camera to move and takes the weight off the camera mount)
2. how well made it is.

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May 18, 2016 10:32:28   #
melismus Loc: Chesapeake Bay Country
 
Thank you for your observations. My device does tilt and shift in all directions independently.

And thank you for noting the tripod mount. I realize that is important, and I am redesigning to add that feature.

wattsimages wrote:
Hi Paul

Here is an review on the adapter that I have.
http://www.imaging-resource.com/news/2014/08/14/hartblei-introduces-hcam-master-ts-14-24mm-tilt-shift-optic-for-sony-e-moun

I bought the T/S adapter (Canon to Sony FF E mount) and it was $500 +/-. it works but...
1. The shift could be easier more accurate.
2. there is no center stop. If the camera is up high it is hard to tell when you are centered.
3. it only tilts in one direction.

I do like...
1. The adapter mounts to the tripod. (This is a must because it allows the camera to move and takes the weight off the camera mount)
2. how well made it is.
Hi Paul br br Here is an review on the adapter th... (show quote)

Reply
May 19, 2016 05:42:36   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
jcboy3 wrote:
You don't need a shift lens, just shoot wide and correct in post.

Tilt, on the other hand, changes the plane of focus. This is useful if you are shooting a diminishing line (people, architecture, etc.). Helps keep foreground and background elements in focus (along the plane of focus, of course). This cannot be replicated in post processing (although focus stacking is a close approximation).

For a landscape, shooting a panorama helps get the extra pixels you need for perspective correction. If you are shooting vertical, or off the horizon, then you need a multi-row pano head, and you need to calibrate the lens for the no-parallax point.

Perspective shift, in camera or post, cannot actually change your point of view, so overdoing it can result in strange details. Better to raise the camera with a boom (or a tripod or monopod). I do this often, and control the camera with a Wi-Fi connection to my iPhone.
You don't need a shift lens, just shoot wide and c... (show quote)


Post processing correction of converging verticals (or horizontals) is a poor substitute for shift, and often much harder to get right. Plus you end up sacrificing many pixels to make the correction.

And shifting the lens does change your point of view. For instance, if you are shooting next to a tree and it is in your frame, and you can't move far enough away to keep it from getting into your image, you can shift your lens sideways and completely eliminate the pole from the cameras view.

You might want to rent one so you can see for yourself how they really work.

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