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Programmed, Aperture or Shutter Priority
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May 6, 2012 05:10:01   #
elmer13
 
I agree with you!



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May 6, 2012 05:15:15   #
elmer13
 
Just keep on shooting Micki.



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May 6, 2012 06:49:15   #
Dun1 Loc: Atlanta, GA
 
Take a few shots and decide which works best for where or when you are shooting. Then jot down or keep the settings in mid for what worked and what did not.

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May 6, 2012 07:09:48   #
mgstrawn Loc: Atlanta, GA
 
russelray wrote:
micki wrote:
Hello everyone, first of all, I must say that this is a very fun site to visit. Everybody seems to be very helpful and friendly. I have a D7000, which I enjoy very much, beautiful photo's. I'm just curious to how people shoot with their camera, in Program, Aperture, or Shutter Priority mode during normal shooting.

Mostly Program mode. I use Shutter Priority when I'm out birding and don't know how cooperative the birds are going to be.

Remember that the little computer that runs your camera is more powerful than the computer(s) that landed man on the moon back in 1969. No reason not to let that powerful computer help you out as much as possible.
quote=micki Hello everyone, first of all, I must ... (show quote)


So true!

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May 6, 2012 07:17:57   #
mgstrawn Loc: Atlanta, GA
 
Kenny wrote:
Harvey wrote:
I just can never understand why a person takes
a wonderful nature photo of a crystal clear stream and then turns it in a milky fake-phony imitation of flowing "stuff" with those slow shutter settings - no longer representing nature..
chillwil wrote:
When shooting the waterfalls and streams try slowing the shutter speed down to about 1/30, this makes the water look like it is flowing rather than making it stop with a fast shutter speed


I think some of us take photos of flowing water to create "milky" versions for no other reason than just because we can, and it has become a fad. I must prefer such scenes which depict waterfalls in their true state. But to each his or her own.
quote=Harvey I just can never understand why a pe... (show quote)


I so agree! It is rewarding to know how to produce the 'milky' version, but I also like to 'freeze' the motion in order to remember the natural state of the water.

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May 6, 2012 08:34:24   #
lynn1
 
I almost always shoot in Aperture priority unless the subject is moving pretty fast.

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May 6, 2012 13:03:46   #
sjbegres Loc: Pittsburgh, PA
 
[quote=Bill41]
micki wrote:
Hello everyone, first of all, I must say that this is a very fun site to visit. Everybody seems to be very helpful and friendly. I have a D7000, which I enjoy very much, beautiful photo's. I'm just curious to how people shoot with their camera, in Program, Aperture, or Shutter Priority mode during normal shooting.[f/quote]

It depends on the shot. I use (gasp!) program for a lot of shots, but aperture for depth of field and shutter to stop or show motion. Regardless of which I use, I use a 1 - 4 degree spot incident/reflective to periodically check exposure.
Hello everyone, first of all, I must say that this... (show quote)


What do you mean by "I use a 1-4 degree spot incident/reflective to...check exposure"?

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May 6, 2012 16:21:58   #
photoman022 Loc: Manchester CT USA
 
I normally shoot in manual mode but will use aperture priority when I want a certain look to the depth of field but don't want to mess with the shutter speed. I will use shutter priority when I'm shooting waterfalls (and slow the shutter way, way down) and don't want to play around with the aperture setting. I seldom shoot program or auto modes, but would consider program mode in an extremely low light situation when i wouldn't want the on camera flash to trigger.

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May 6, 2012 18:41:24   #
russelray Loc: La Mesa CA
 
mgstrawn wrote:
Kenny wrote:
Harvey wrote:
I just can never understand why a person takes
a wonderful nature photo of a crystal clear stream and then turns it in a milky fake-phony imitation of flowing "stuff" with those slow shutter settings - no longer representing nature..
chillwil wrote:
When shooting the waterfalls and streams try slowing the shutter speed down to about 1/30, this makes the water look like it is flowing rather than making it stop with a fast shutter speed


I think some of us take photos of flowing water to create "milky" versions for no other reason than just because we can, and it has become a fad. I must prefer such scenes which depict waterfalls in their true state. But to each his or her own.
quote=Harvey I just can never understand why a pe... (show quote)


I so agree! It is rewarding to know how to produce the 'milky' version, but I also like to 'freeze' the motion in order to remember the natural state of the water.
quote=Kenny quote=Harvey I just can never unders... (show quote)

So freezing the motion is the natural state of the water? Hmmm. Maybe ice, then?

Reply
May 6, 2012 19:05:28   #
MtnMan Loc: ID
 
micki wrote:
Hello everyone, first of all, I must say that this is a very fun site to visit. Everybody seems to be very helpful and friendly. I have a D7000, which I enjoy very much, beautiful photo's. I'm just curious to how people shoot with their camera, in Program, Aperture, or Shutter Priority mode during normal shooting.


I'll take the odd man out position. It depends on your skill level with DSLRs. If it is your first I recommend shooting with Auto until you lean how to compose and focus so you are getting pretty clear pictures you are happy with most of the time.

Many new users of the D7000 that post here seem to have trouble getting focus under control. The exposure modes have little to do with that. It depends on your choice of focus mode and how well you use it.

I then suggest experimenting with the other exposure modes as the opportunities present until you know what they all do. I'm not sure of the exact list on the D7000.

Although I'm perfectly capable of using manual exposure mode and manual focus from my years of using a fully manual SLR I only do so when specific situations demand it. I have come to prefer the P mode on my D5100. It lets me choose from a range of exposure time/f-stops that all produce the same exposure by just rotating the thumb wheel. When I want a lot of DOF I turn it to high f-stop. When I want a narrow DOF to single out my focus point (using spot focus, of course) I rotate it the other way.

Perhaps the strongest advice I can give is that whatever you do use your LCD to see if you are getting what you want before you move on. You can blow up the image on the LCD to better check that you are getting the focus right and you can use the blinkies to make sure you aren't blowing out parts of your image.

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May 6, 2012 19:13:57   #
MtnMan Loc: ID
 
jerryc41I wrote:
hate to say this, but I was actually trying to be serious (not easy for me). What I meant was, I can't go wrong with P, but it is possible to use settings in M that will ruin the image.

Thanks for thinking I'm funny anyway.


While I always value your input I finally have one up on you.

I am able to ruin images even using P. Ha!

(It is usually because I left some other setting; e.g. white balance, ISO, metering mode, etc. not where it needs to be.)

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May 6, 2012 23:50:06   #
GENorkus Loc: Washington Twp, Michigan
 
Harvey wrote:
I just can never understand why a person takes
a wonderful nature photo of a crystal clear stream and then turns it in a milky fake-phony imitation of flowing "stuff" with those slow shutter settings - no longer representing nature..
chillwil wrote:
When shooting the waterfalls and streams try slowing the shutter speed down to about 1/30, this makes the water look like it is flowing rather than making it stop with a fast shutter speed


For the same reason that some people go crazy with Mt climbing and use heavy HDR! ...and no I don't do heavy HDR or go mt. climbing.

Reply
May 7, 2012 00:48:48   #
BHC Loc: Strawberry Valley, JF, USA
 
[quote=sjbegres]
Bill41 wrote:
micki wrote:
Hello everyone, first of all, I must say that this is a very fun site to visit. Everybody seems to be very helpful and friendly. I have a D7000, which I enjoy very much, beautiful photo's. I'm just curious to how people shoot with their camera, in Program, Aperture, or Shutter Priority mode during normal shooting.[f/quote]

It depends on the shot. I use (gasp!) program for a lot of shots, but aperture for depth of field and shutter to stop or show motion. Regardless of which I use, I use a 1 - 4 degree spot incident/reflective to periodically check exposure.
Hello everyone, first of all, I must say that this... (show quote)


What do you mean by "I use a 1-4 degree spot incident/reflective to...check exposure"?
quote=micki Hello everyone, first of all, I must ... (show quote)


Sorry, I did not complete the sentence. I have a light meter that combines reflective metering with an incident meter. The meter, a Sekonic L-508, has an adjustable spotmeter (1 - 4 degrees) for reflective metering. I started out using it with my 4 X 5, but now use it often to adjust exposure of scenes with a wide exposure range; it helps me concentrate on the part of the scene that interests me most. I don't use the camera's spot meter because I'm too old and senile to remember to reset it to evaluative mode.

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May 7, 2012 01:42:35   #
PNagy Loc: Missouri City, Texas
 
russelray wrote:
mgstrawn wrote:
Kenny wrote:
Harvey wrote:
I just can never understand why a person takes
a wonderful nature photo of a crystal clear stream and then turns it in a milky fake-phony imitation of flowing "stuff" with those slow shutter settings - no longer representing nature..
chillwil wrote:
When shooting the waterfalls and streams try slowing the shutter speed down to about 1/30, this makes the water look like it is flowing rather than making it stop with a fast shutter speed


I think some of us take photos of flowing water to create "milky" versions for no other reason than just because we can, and it has become a fad. I must prefer such scenes which depict waterfalls in their true state. But to each his or her own.
quote=Harvey I just can never understand why a pe... (show quote)


I so agree! It is rewarding to know how to produce the 'milky' version, but I also like to 'freeze' the motion in order to remember the natural state of the water.
quote=Kenny quote=Harvey I just can never unders... (show quote)

So freezing the motion is the natural state of the water? Hmmm. Maybe ice, then?
quote=mgstrawn quote=Kenny quote=Harvey I just ... (show quote)


Freezing a shot does not refer to liquid changing its state to a solid. It means stopping the action with a fast enough shutter speed. You knew that, but I had to make sure.

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May 7, 2012 02:26:12   #
zip37602
 
i so agree, the ribbon effect using slow shutter speeds has been worked to death. I have seen very few shots like this lately that work. I use aperature mostly at 5.6 which is the soft spot on my cam. The best advice as already mentioned is to use all different modes and explore the advantages each offers. Best wishes to you.

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