Exposure question
Apr 13, 2016 10:53:02 #
I don't do a lot of long exposure photography, but yesterday I decided to give it a try. I was at a dam where water was being released. I set the ISO as low as it would go (200) and stopped all the way down (f/25). But the exposure was still 1/125 second. Obviously it didn't give the smooth effect I was looking for. I don't have a neutral density filter, but even that wouldn't slow it down all that much. What could I have done? Thanks in advance.
Here is the picture. Not long enough exposure to smooth it out
Apr 13, 2016 11:02:39 #
pmsc70d wrote:
I don't do a lot of long exposure photography, but yesterday I decided to give it a try. I was at a dam where water was being released. I set the ISO as low as it would go (200) and stopped all the way down (f/25). But the exposure was still 1/125 second. Obviously it didn't give the smooth effect I was looking for. I don't have a neutral density filter, but even that wouldn't slow it down all that much. What could I have done? Thanks in advance.
You can achieve the same effect as using an ND filter with this photoshop blending technique. it does work...
http://www.psdbox.com/tutorials/silky-effect-without-nd-filter
BTW - an ND filter can allow you to slow down your shutter depending on the ND filter density.
For example, a "big stopper" by Lee can reduce the light by 10 stops, which would drop your shutter speed from 1/125 of a second down to 8 seconds - quite a difference ;)
Apr 13, 2016 11:18:02 #
Old Timer
Loc: Greenfield, In.
I like it the way you shot it. Shows the motion of the water and the spray and water droplets. I am not a big fan of the extremely smooth look. I like to see the motion portrayed.
Apr 13, 2016 11:24:10 #
ND's will reduce the amount of light allowing longer shutterspeeds. However, it seems best to start with a circular polarizing filter when shooting water.
Apr 14, 2016 08:06:01 #
Old Timer wrote:
I like it the way you shot it. Shows the motion of the water and the spray and water droplets. I am not a big fan of the extremely smooth look. I like to see the motion portrayed.
:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
Apr 14, 2016 08:23:14 #
I use a Tiffen 9/10 stop filter which would stop the world turning on the sunniest of days. They are sold on Amazon and are not too expensive. There are other more professional ones but if you just to play around a bit then, in my opinion, this would be sufficient. Youtube has videos on ND filters which are very helpful.
Apr 14, 2016 21:33:48 #
pmsc70d wrote:
I don't do a lot of long exposure photography, but yesterday I decided to give it a try. I was at a dam where water was being released. I set the ISO as low as it would go (200) and stopped all the way down (f/25). But the exposure was still 1/125 second. Obviously it didn't give the smooth effect I was looking for. I don't have a neutral density filter, but even that wouldn't slow it down all that much. What could I have done? Thanks in advance.
The vote seems to be ND filters. I go along with that. To accomplish what you were after would require a shutter speed approaching 1 second. That requires you to reduce the amount of light entering the lens, and ultimately striking the sensor.
ND filters vary in the amount of light they allow through. These can be slightly gray to almost opaque. Using your shooting stat of 1/125, to arrive at 1 second would require about 8 stops.
--Bob
Apr 16, 2016 13:56:06 #
May 1, 2016 20:41:34 #
pmsc70d wrote:
Thanks! I didn't realize that ND filters got that dark.
There are many options in varying degrees of density. The circular versions that attach like filters require that you compose the shot, focus, and then add the ND filter. the Lee "Big Stopper" is a a square filter and slides into a universal holder attached to the lens.
May 13, 2016 18:49:39 #
This was take with the Lee "Big Stopper". You can get some nice cloud movement, along with smoothing out the water.
15 sec. exposure at f/16
15 sec. exposure at f/16
May 13, 2016 19:04:40 #
chapjohn wrote:
ND's will reduce the amount of light allowing longer shutterspeeds. However, it seems best to start with a circular polarizing filter when shooting water.
When using the Lee or similar systems, it's very easy to combine a CPL with a ND filter.
If you want to reply, then register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.