johnnycamra Loc: Hackettstown, NJ

Hello. I am going to a big family reunion for Easter and I want to get some great group shots. There will be about 30 people attending and I would like to get some advice. Do I use a ultra-wide lens and get close or should I use standard wide angle lens and shoot farther away? Should I use multiple flashes for fill? What f stop should I use etc.? It will probably be done outside hopefully with sunlight. Thank you.

WessoJPEG Loc: Cincinnati, Ohio

No one can tell you what F stop too use. Depends on the light, iso. I would shoot manual, iso 100 or 200. Would use my 18x55 or my 50 or my 35. These will work. Good luck

Capture48 Loc: Arizona

With crowds that large it's a good idea to get very slightly above the crowd, like a ladder or something. As far as fill flash, it's probably a good idea, but unless you have about 3 or 4 large shoot through umbrellas you may have to shoot 4 naked flashes for fill. Umbrellas will help even out the fill better however.

f-stop will be whatever it takes to get the group all in focus and sharp. As it's outside in sunlight you can afford to go somewhere between f7 & f11 or so depending on the light and how many rows of people you need to get everyone in the shot.

You need to test this shot, you can test with one or two people standing a few feet apart behind or in front of each other to get your f-stop, then adjust ISO/Shutter accordingly. I have done this shot with 2 large (6 ft) parabolic umbrellas. They really spread out the light, but if you are using flash you will need a minimum or two per umbrella. Try to avoid wide angle lens on groups, it may distort them too much. I would not go below 35mm if I could help it.

juicesqueezer Loc: Okeechobee, Florida

First off, do you have a full frame camera? That will make a difference in selection of lens. Personally, with my full frame, I would use the 50mm and shoot at between f11 and f16. You need the depth of field to get all in sharp focus. Take a few test shots and adjust from there. I shoot in manual mode, but I'm not telling you to do that. Shoot what you feel comfortable with.
Again, is this 10 people or 50. That will make a difference in how you stage them. If a large number, bring a step stool or small ladder and get higher than the group. Makes for some interesting photos and you would be happy with results. Good luck and please post photos when done.

Bill_de Loc: US

I'm gonna take a wild guess and say about 30. ;)


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DirtFarmer Loc: Escaped from the NYC area, back to MA

30 people in a group. Should be doable.

I would not use an ultra wide lens. They generally produce some distortion. Use a normal lens from further away.

When you take pictures of a group you want to take as many shots as you can fit into the available time. Groups are not static. People move around. They change expression. They close their eyes. The kids stick out their tongue. Digital pictures are free (once you get past the capital cost) so it doesn't cost anything but time to take a lot of them. You can delete the duds later.

If it's bright and sunny there's a temptation to get everyone out into the sunlight. That generally produces dark shadows so everyone has a black eye or else they're squinting. A moderately overcast day provides more uniform light. But you can't depend on the weather to do things to your specifications. If you depend on a cloud to come over the crowd so they're not squinting, the background might be sunny and either everyone will come out dark in shadow or the background will be blown out. The shady side of a building is generally good since people won't be squinting and the background is lit the same as the people.

Fill flash is a possibility, but don't count on it to overcome bright sun shadows. There's a lot of power in the sun and not that much in your flash.

boberic Loc: Quiet Corner, Connecticut. Ex long Islander

All the above suggestions are good. A few tweaks- For fill do not use the on camera flash. use off camera ane use some kind of reflector or diffuser you don,t have one, a tissue over the flash can work. With regard to camera height, too high or too low can cause unattractive distortion, camera height should be at subject face level. A light meter might be helpful, as well as a grey card for propper esposure. Nice part about digital is test shots cost nothing. A tripod is a good idea. Use a remote or cable release to avoid camera shake (make sure to turn IS off if using a tripod). Might not be a bad idea to scope out the location a day or 2 before the shoot.

SteveR Loc: Michigan

The problem with off the camera flash is shadows.

Bill_de Loc: US

If the flash(s) is set above the line of sight of the lens, that shadows should be hidden by the subjects. Also, the flash power should be set low, just enough to lighten, not totally remove, shadows caused by the main light ... the sun.


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CaptainC Loc: Colorado, south of Denver

Some good advice here and some terrible advice.

Too many variables to give you specific advice, so here is some general stuff you should know:
Make every effort to get the group in the shade. If that is not possible, at least arrange them so the sun is behind them.
The advice to get a ladder is correct - not some silly stool - a LADDER and get up as high as is safe.
If you are going to use flash, forget the on-camera flash and the advice to put a tissue over the flash is wrong - all that does is cut the power - the last thing you need. If you really need flash, then ONE light source directly over the lens will give the best results. For just fill, a bare flash may be better than using an umbrella since the umbrella will kill some of the power. If you use multiple sources away from the camera, you will most likely get cross shadows. NO flash is better than that. If outside, as one person suggested, you may well need more than one flash unit. But do NOT separate them. A 13 foot light stand for the flashes is perfect as well as the radio system to fire them, but since you are asking this question, I would guess you do not have those.

If you are equipment-limited: Get them in the shade or put sun behind. Get on a ladder. Take a picture. It will be fine- this is not art.

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

Where are people getting this "tissue" tip?
They must work for Kimberly-Clark.

CaptainC Loc: Colorado, south of Denver

Oh yeah! Another bit of bad advice and misunderstanding. Right up there with:
72ppi is screen resolution
Focal length changes perspective
Full frame is inherently superior to crop frame
Shooting in Manual is the mark of a good photographer
No zoom is as good as a prime lens in actual practice
That something difficult has a "steep" learning curve

These are just a few.

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

There are enough for a whole section called "Common Myths"
(Though climbing a steep mountain is more difficult than climbing/hiking one with a shallower angle of ascent)

CaptainC Loc: Colorado, south of Denver

Yes, and that is the reason for the mis-use of the term. So teaching folks to use the correct terminology will indeed be a very shallow curve. :-)

DirtFarmer Loc: Escaped from the NYC area, back to MA

You're going to be in daylight. I doubt that you will ever see shadows from the flash unless you're in a really shady spot. If the sun is shining on the group, you'll need full power from your flash. If you're on the shady side of a building so you're out of direct sun, shadows from the flash are possible, so take some with flash and some without.

A speedlight would be preferable; the on-camera flash will work if you don't have a speedlight, but the power from the camera flash is fairly low so don't expect to overpower the sun's shadows with it, particularly if you're back far enough to see 30 people in the frame.