Wanda Krack Loc: Tennessee, USA

My daughter has had requests for photographic copies of her art (originals are on canvas or mounted on wood or framed, multi-media drawings). I am wondering if any of you have companies you would recommend that print exceptional pictures of original art. She says her 16mp camera just doesn't do the job.

Thanks.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

Fine Art America. My niece uses them. However, you must supply the digital image!

Copying is a special genre of photography. You need:

Tripod and/or copy stand
Carpenter's level
Measuring tape
Continuous photo grade CFL lamps
Two, approximately 24x32" soft boxes
Camera with at least 16MP Micro Four-Thirds (or larger) sensor
Some sort of genuine flat-field macro lens
X-RITE Passport Colorchecker or similar tool from DataColor
PhotoVision One Shot Digital Calibration Target, or Delta-1 18% Gray Card

...plus knowledge of how to set it up, use it, and process perfectly exposed images to files the lab can use.

Google search "copy photography for flat art reproduction" and you'll find what you need to know.

GWZ Loc: Bloomington, IN

If you have a good museum nearby (perhaps at a college or university) you may want to check with the curation department. They may not be able to do it for you, but the person who takes pictures for their cataloging might be able to provide some local leads, or may have a side business that can help you out.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

Great idea... Getting set up and learning to do it "really right" can be expensive and time-consuming and mentally challenging.

Wanda Krack Loc: Tennessee, USA

Thank you burkphoto and GWZ. I will pass on these suggestions.

Old Timer Loc: Greenfield, In.

I am confused by question. You say that her camera does not take pictures does that do the job. She is probably not using the proper technique taking the pictures. Sixteen mp. with a good lens should get a picture that is usable with the right technique. Taking pictures of art is not as simple as it sounds.
I have taken several pictures of art and it does take some study and practice. If she would like to pm me I could give her some tips. She can Google the subject and also go to search button on this form.

Wanda Krack Loc: Tennessee, USA

You are correct, my original question was not really clear. I guess what I needed to inquire about would be a camera/lens options that would make a photograph that could be enlarged to poster size. I have suggested to her that she investigate renting the latest full frame Canon ( 50+mp I think) with a good portrait lens and do it herself. Or hire someone local to take the shots. She is needing sharp, high resolution images of her artwork. She mentioned the camera that has not yet been sold by Canon that has 120+ resolution, but I think that's not available yet, and would probably over-perform for her needs.

Thanks for your reply.

Old Timer Loc: Greenfield, In.

She mentioned the camera that has not yet been sold by Canon that has 120+ resolution, but I think that's not available yet, and would probably over-perform for her needs.
I do not know what lens she has but if not done properly as not by a previous post she will have problems with several aspects.
There is some subtle difference but the technique is mostly the same. Light has to be done properly so as not to have glare, no glass over painting or sealer, center of pic at the height of center of camera lens. The picture must be level and perpendicular 180 degrees so as not show top or bottom shorter or longer. Indirect lighting. I prefer the sun at a right angle either before ten or after three in the summer time so as not to have to bright of light. I f you have strobes or flash you need and bounce the light. With a little practice she should have no problems. You can if go artist web sites to get info.

canon Lee

Hi Wanda. I have had many of my paintings photographed for large prints. There is more to doing this than just the camera and lens. Firstly; make sure the camera is on a tripod and that the camera is parallel (same angle) to the painting. This will be one step of limiting glare. Secondly; place 2 strobes equal distant to the sides of the painting. ( a light meter will assure of equal lighting). Attach a polarized film over each light. To assure perfect "color correction", include an 18% gray card in the shot.
The lens is far more important than how large the sensor in your camera is. Use 100mm macro lens. ( less distortion) with an "adjustable" polarized filter to minimize glare. Darken the room. It is very important that you keep the RAW's on file (or on disc) for later applications as well as tweaking.

Wanda Krack Loc: Tennessee, USA

Thank you Old Timer and canon Lee! I will pass on your information to her.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

Lighting angle to art is usually 37.5 to 45 degrees.

Using strobe requires modeling lights, so you can see the glare as you set up, and move the lights to eliminate it. That's why I use photo grade compact fluorescents (from Alzo Digital). Forget "hot" lights (photo flood lamps or quartz-halogen) --- they're a pain to work with.

SharpShooter Loc: NorCal

Jeeeez, if you had but a Hammer on that list, I would have sworn you were coming to remodel my bathroom!!! :lol:
SS

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

Well they're essentials. But I never needed a hammer for copy work.

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

I knew there was a simple solution. :D

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

It's like anything else, simple if you have the tools and know-how! I've probably copied over 10,000 things in my life --- most of them were school yearbook covers (textures, metal seals, foil stamping, and embossing all made it challenging).

A lot of trial and error goes into lighting "flat" art and other objects. Paintings under glass are really difficult. Coins are are, too. Anything shiny with a convex surface will drive you nuts.

In the beginning, I used strobes. Problem was, I had no modeling lights, so I could not see what the final result would be. I wasted a LOT of film. Then I used tiny quartz lights in 5-inch reflectors. They were an option for a copy stand I bought. Wrong option again! Aside from giving me a sunburn from all the UV and infrared they emit, they were too highly specular, and so hot they melted polarizing gels placed a foot in front of them. Still, we used them for 20 years.

CFL photo lamps in soft boxes became my go-to lighting in 2007, as I was testing them for senior portraits and using them for video interviews. I needed to copy several things --- flat art, metal award plaques, photos... The soft boxes made it all easy.