A question about the Sigma Sport 150-600mm lens.
Feb 28, 2016 17:07:23 #
connievloutely wrote:
Hi All, br br When I first got my Sigma 150-600 S... (show quote)
One of the real answers is - for the ultimate in image quality and keeper rates, this lens should NOT be handheld - except in an emergency or for erratic BIF - and you will not be holding it long .....
Feb 28, 2016 17:14:47 #
mikegreenwald wrote:
I'm willing to learn, but I can't find the site you refer too. Can you provide direction?
I think that you were able to find the video in this thread, here is Photozone's review with test data..
http://www.photozone.de/canon_eos_ff/896-canon100400f4556is2
Feb 28, 2016 19:30:18 #
imagemeister wrote:
One of the real answers is - for the ultimate in image quality and keeper rates, this lens should NOT be handheld - except in an emergency or for erratic BIF - and you will not be holding it long .....
Exactly I.M. You don't(can't) hand hold the Sport very long at all. I don't care what kind of shape you are in. I've gotten used to swallowing my pride and use the mono-pod or a prop.
Feb 28, 2016 23:40:12 #
I have this lens and obtain fine results when used properly. You do not have to buy a Canon lens to obtain good results. The Sigma Sport is plenty sharp.
Sorry for all the typos in the original post. Tried to use my tablet in a hurry this morning.
Here are some suggestions.:
I try to get as close as possible to the subject. I also try to avoid shots over 100 yards, or even 50 if I can get closer or wait for the animal to work it's way to me. If you get farther away with the longer lenses on a well lit day, you will begin to collect heat refracted light from any surface below you and your targeted image.
To get an idea of what this looks like on an exaggerated scale, go out to your car and place your head about eye level with the roof or hood of the vehicle. A nice sunny day will work well for this experiment. Try to focus on objects at a distance while peering just over the hood. The subjects will be blurry and often distorted. This happens when shooting over a longer distance in decent weather conditions and is amplified by the use of a long lens. To help lessen that effect, if you can achieve a more elevated position to shoot from it will reduce this effect. The other option, as I suggested before, is to get as close as you can to the subject, taking in consideration both you and you subject's safety. This is important to remember during breeding season for birds as you can scare parents from nest sites, and larger mammals can be more aggressive during this time of the year.
Sorry for all the typos in the original post. Tried to use my tablet in a hurry this morning.
Here are some suggestions.:
I try to get as close as possible to the subject. I also try to avoid shots over 100 yards, or even 50 if I can get closer or wait for the animal to work it's way to me. If you get farther away with the longer lenses on a well lit day, you will begin to collect heat refracted light from any surface below you and your targeted image.
To get an idea of what this looks like on an exaggerated scale, go out to your car and place your head about eye level with the roof or hood of the vehicle. A nice sunny day will work well for this experiment. Try to focus on objects at a distance while peering just over the hood. The subjects will be blurry and often distorted. This happens when shooting over a longer distance in decent weather conditions and is amplified by the use of a long lens. To help lessen that effect, if you can achieve a more elevated position to shoot from it will reduce this effect. The other option, as I suggested before, is to get as close as you can to the subject, taking in consideration both you and you subject's safety. This is important to remember during breeding season for birds as you can scare parents from nest sites, and larger mammals can be more aggressive during this time of the year.
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