The Villages Loc: The Villages, Florida

Guess I'm just looking at the end result...what I see when I check the LCD screen. At 10,0000 its too redish, at 2,500 way to blue.

jdubu Loc: San Jose, CA

Photographers can use that temperature adjustment knowingly to manipulate the look of a photo. Sometimes in conjunction with flash lighting and gels to change the whole feel of the shot.

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

Fluorescent lighting comes in a lot of shades.
On the second floor of our building, the fluorescent lighting is pretty close to tungsten balance.

Best thing to do is a custom white balance if you are shooting jpeg (and even if you shoot raw, it gets you really close right off the bat)

CHOLLY Loc: THE FLORIDA PANHANDLE!

As others have mentioned, the problem is with the white balance of your images.

Let me add to the suggestion that you shoot custom white balance prior to taking the images you wish to record. Buy a custom white balance card. It will be gray, and following your camera manuals instructions for setting a custom white balance for the given lighting of a particular scene will only take a few seconds.

This is critical when you shoot JPEGs because that image format offers much less latitude in post processing than the RAW format does.

Try it... your results will be more in line with what your eyes actually saw.

GOOD LUCK!

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

Not sure what your camera says, but the color temperature in K is not camera specific, it's the color temperature of the light. Please see http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_temperature

DirtFarmer Loc: Escaped from the NYC area, back to MA

Allow me to point out that not all light sources can be characterized by a color temperature. "Color Temperature" is what the light would look like if you were illuminating it by a black body heated to that temperature. That's the case for incandescent lighting (not really a black body, but it's a good approximation), but other light sources, including LED and Fluorescent lighting can vary from that ideal. Sometimes significantly. In particular, if you have mixed sources, the result may not be easy to handle. (Think about Sodium street lights -- they're primarily yellow {for the low pressure lamps anyway}).

Lightroom's Develop panel has a white balance section. THere are two parts to it: Temperature and Tint. Since you're dealing with a camera which uses a 3-color process, you need at least two parameters to balance the image you get to make something a neutral gray, i.e. a white surface with the red, green, and blue elements of equal intensity.

Bill_de Loc: US

In PhotoShop go to Image/Adjustments/Hue&Saturation.
Desaturate the blue (maybe also cyan) channel as a starter.
Adjust the other channels if necessary to get skin tones corrected.

I did a little fooling around with it without knowing actual colors. It looked pretty good in about 2 minutes.

--

Bare Loc: SoCal

Thee are filters out there that you shoot through to get an accurate white balance setting. The best one is probably Expodisc 2. You can screw it on, or just hold it in front of your lens, point it at your light source, then use that image to set your custom white balance to. It does an amazing job of getting the white balance right. You will be amazed at the difference in your pictures vs the AWB setting.

LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field

Above response is correct>

http://www.cinelight.com/kelvin-scale-cri-level/

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

You adjusted "for strip lighting", but apparently chose the wrong setting. It might be possible with some work to improve on those images, but as others have mentioned it's not easy with JPEGs... RAW files have a lot more latitude for adjustment in post-processing.

To prevent this in the future, set a custom white balance...

Most cameras allow you to do this. You need some form of "target", which you then photograph under the lighting conditions where you'll be shooting. Then you "tell" the camera to use that sample image for reference and set a white balance based on it.

A common type of target that can be used is a Kodak 18% Gray Card, which has a neutral gray side and a totally white side. Either side can be used to set a custom white balance, but the gray side also can be used to set a pretty accurate exposure. I use Lastolite EZ Balance targets instead, because they're flexible and fold up for storage. But they do essentially the same thing as a gray card.

There are other things you can use... even a plain white piece of paper can work pretty well in an emergency. Something else that's neutral gray or solid black can work, too.

There are also Warm Cards, which have a slight tint to bias the color your camera renders... A faint cyan tint causes a slightly warmer image... A little yellow makes images cooler... The Warm Card set includes one or two special fluorescent cards, too... Plus a neutral 18% gray, plain white and solid black.

The result with a custom white balance is far more accurate than the preset white balances built into many cameras (which are just guesses or approximations, at best).... or than setting the Kelvin temp yourself. White Balance is actually two different things... Color Temp (blue/yellow axis) and Color Tint (green/magenta axis). If you dial in a Kelvin setting you're only setting one of them: Color Temp. To set the Tint needs a separate setting.

Most digital cameras have Auto White Balance, too. That may or may not work better. Some types of lighting fool some cameras.

It is far easier, faster and more accurate to simply use a target and a Custom White Balance... it usually only takes a few seconds to do, once you have a proper target to use and know how it's done on your particular camera.

And, yes, shoot RAW so that if it's needed you have more latitude to adjust the image afterward.

Oh, and if your computer monitor isn't calibrated, you'll have a hard time properly adjusting or even very accurately evaluating the color of your images.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Strong blue and green cast. Wrong white balance setting, but not sure how you got the green cast.

Don't bother shooting raw+jpeg. Shoot raw and use the resulting jpeg as your distribution and uploading format. You will drive yourself crazy with all the versions of the same thing. With an efficient workflow, your basic needs will be the raw and corresponding xmp, and a psd "working file where you make your post raw conversion fine tuning and adjustment.

Jpegs can easily be generated from the psd. If you have alternate "takes" on a post processing treatment - a B&W version, an artistic texture, high key/low key/high contrast/low contrast/creative composite etc - then you will have additional psds for those as well.

(Download)

tmehrkam Loc: Houston,Tx

I wonder if the strip lighting has been upgraded to LED. Here in the states you can purchase LED tubes that look like Florescent. Some of the early LED's can be very blue.

Bill_de Loc: US

Nice work Gene!

Haveago Loc: Swindon, Wiltshire. UK.

Blimey what a response not got 1/2 way through yet.

☺

Baz

DirtFarmer Loc: Escaped from the NYC area, back to MA

To prevent this in the future, shoot raw with the custom white balance. Or raw+jpg, if you prefer.