Georgia Peddler Loc: Brunswick, GA

Shot aerial commercial stuff from a Cessna 210 for about 6 years way back when. Even had a hole mounted in the rear floorboard for straight down shots (Yes, it was done to spec and certified) All Cessna planes (especially older ones) have a single screw holding the fold-out arm to the side window. By taking this screw out, the window will automatically go full-open and stay there until you close it. When you land, just put the screw back in the hinge arm and all is OK. Really makes a big difference not having to worry about the window flapping and not opening wide enough for your needed shot. Good luck

beverett Loc: los angeles

Don't do this without the pilot's permission. If he has any experience in aerial photography, he may fix the window without you asking. He may also want the window closed during some parts of the flight.

Picdude Loc: Ohio

I have taken several shots from a helicopter in the past and learned to make sure the flash was disabled before shooting, especially if you have to shoot through plexiglass. Flash will reflect and completely ruin the picture.

Good Luck!!

Mudshark Loc: Illinois

I shoot a lot of aerials for decades. I still have a gyro...
Advice...in your situation. Many light planes have a small, for lack of a better word, mini-window, sliding window...etc. usually on the pilots side. If you can get the pilot to sit on the copilot side and open the little window you can shoot through air instead of dirty plexi. Avoid your lens shade contacting the window. I would never consider a speed less that 1/500 and faster is even better. ASA of at least 400...800 better with a high F stop. The lower you can "get away with" the better. The "gunk" in the atmosphere will really cause trouble...UV filter for sure. Line up your shot with the pilot have him fly a straight line and you shoot as the subject comes to you.

One of my clients owns a helo and employs a staff pilot....Little bit of heaven there..........I usually sit in pilots seat and we take the door completely off....does not get any better.

highguy Loc: Southern Indiana

Their is a screw holding the bracket for the window. Take it out and the window will open up and normally you're going fast enough the wind will keep it open. And shoot away>>>

Gregory Loc: Clinton, Iowa

i too Photographed the 93 flood from the air... Quad cities area

Lucian Loc: From Wales, living in Ohio

Cessna does not have that sliding window. No one has mentioned a VERY important thing. If you have the window open be sure to wear the neck strap to avoid losing your camera. The force of the wind will amaze you if you put anything out into the slip stream. Even if no window open, wear the strap because as a pilot, the last thing we want is for someone to drop something that could get under a rudder peddle in flight or on the taxi way.

As for exposure, it is going to b dak and you will need to adjust your camera accordingly which means two things, One you need to go to a very high ISO at least 1600 or better around 3000 if you can. Two you will need to minus the exposure if you are shooting in P mode because the camera will judge that you need more exposure than you are in need of. So you may even need to go to -2 or more on the exp. comp. dial. best to doa shot on P mode in the air, then see what the settings were and turn to manual, set the same settings as you saw in the P mode and adjust accordingly your shutter speed to get what you want as a correctly exposed image. Have the pilot bank to your side for important shots, so you are shooting more straight through the plexiglass side window. As was stated, do not touch anything in the plane with your camera, the vibration will ruin any shot you take.

PNagy Loc: Missouri City, Texas

Shooting from a plane you would shoot scenery, not close-ups of individual people or animals. That means natural formations, made-made ones, and hybrids. Frame a good composition and fire away. A shutter speed of 1/320 will eliminate any wobble from you or the plane.

Georgia Peddler Loc: Brunswick, GA

Well, I guess the pilot would want it closed during some of the flight???. I would recommend opening the window only when shooting. Taking the screw out doesn't affect the window's operation, just lets it open completely and the wind will hold it open. I would think most people wouldn't open the window until they reached their target??
Then, if you had taken the screw out BEFORE departure, you would have a window that opened wide without any intereference. Land, taxi in, shut down, and then put the screw back in and everything and everybody is hunky-dory, doncheeno? I was half owner of the 210 and later we added a 310 and a 182. We shot property shots all over the US for CBL& Associates (mall properties) N,S,E and W shots from 2,500 ft, then a straight down at whatever altitude it took to get the property. Photos were for their leasing brochures, property maintance (roof standing water and dark wet spots in asphalt) and occasionally a legal shot showing skid marks, etc.

Stinson222 Loc: White Bear lake, MN

Hi,,

Good luck with shooting from the plane,,
Please have someone else doing the flying while you are shooting. LOL,,

I agree with those that have said that the plastic windows are an issue, I have a sliding window in my Champ, and I slide it open to shoot.

Georgia Peddler Loc: Brunswick, GA

I give up. Would anyone possibly think that I would be shooting and flying at the same time. I should have said, "I took the screw out of the window before takeoff so that whoever was shooting from the right seat would have a wide view without plexi intrusion. Then after landing (me, if I was flying and someone else was shooting) the screw would be replaced. I have been flying since '74, with Instrument and Multi-engine and have some 4,200 hours accumulated, so give me credit for some small amount of common sense. Some I flew, some I shot - never both.

Lucian Loc: From Wales, living in Ohio

georgia peddler... with all those hours I'd think you'd have had the brains to figure out the comment was meant for the OP and not you. Some people don't read all the posts before posting thier own message, nor include anything that refers to what they are posting about.

Mudshark Loc: Illinois

I have often heard of pilots doing both...Like you...I think that's nuts. There are old pilots and bold pilots,....etc.
If you are doing serious aerial stuff, communications with a pilot should start on the ground before the flight. And being able to properly communicate with the pilot in flight will result in superior photography. You just can't say "see that tree over there I need to go just a bit this way from it and then...." Pilots are not mind readers and photographers often don't understand aviation....

PNagy Loc: Missouri City, Texas

It is easy to deal with smudging in the window of a plane. The lens will eliminate it as it does a chain link fence if the focus is on something significantly behind it. It would take a huge, dark obstruction to show up in the photos.

Mudshark Loc: Illinois

On one level I agree...but if you are doing serious work think about it...You're using a $2500 lens designed via computer with multiple special coatings, etc., etc. and then shooting through scratched up, milky, el-crapo plexiglas? C'mon......!?!