Rongnongno Loc: FL

CO

All of the UHH members have given great information. A great book to get is "The Nikon Autofocus System Mastering Focus for Sharp Images Every Time" by Rocky Nook press. It's a very recent November 2015 publication. I bought the bundle with printed book and ebook. You can purchase just the ebook and download it. They cover everything. One chapter is Field techniques, methods, and tips. They'll have a chart with recommended settings and then discuss techniques. Here is the website and topics covered in the field techniques chapter.

http://www.rockynook.com/shop/photography/the-nikon-autofocus-system-2/

Outdoor Sports: Football
Outdoor Sports: Track and Field
Outdoor Sports: Tennis
Indoor Sports: Basketball
Indoor Events: Dance and Bands
Indoor Sports: Volleyball
Birds in Flight
Landscapes
Portraits: Individuals, Groups, and Weddings
Street
Macro
Aerial Photography

Bobbee

Look to see if you turned on Bracketing

Jim Bob

:thumbup:

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

:thumbup:

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

What gets my attention in the first picture is a line I often heard growing up: "Keep your eye on the ball."

WayneT Loc: Paris, TN

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

Great book. I learned SLR's on film and moving to digital can be a bit of a shock. This book really helped me out on a few key points.

http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-Autofocus-System-Mastering-Images/dp/1937538788/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1453383043&sr=1-1&keywords=The+Nikon+Autofocus+System+Mastering+Focus+for+Sharp+Images+Every+Time

selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA

If you are going to make that claim, demonstrate it. You can't.

The balance between how much noise is removed and how much sharpness you give up will depend on the OP's intent.


In the image below, I have removed virtually all of the noise but you can see that there is a loss of sharpness and some unwanted artifacts have crept in.

The fundamental problem, as others have mentioned, is that the actual ISO used with this image was 5000 which allowed 1/1000 sec at f/2.8. There simply was not enough exposure to avoid the resulting noise.

If you had used a wider aperture and a slower shutter speed you would have gotten more exposure. For example, at 1/500 and f/2 you would have had 4x as much exposure and could have used ISO 1250. Better yet, a 50mm f/1.4 wide open would have permitted ISO 640.

Of course, wider aperture means shallower depth of field and slower shutter speed risks motion blur but experience and practice will get you closer to what you want.

But no matter what, only a small percentage of action shots will be keepers, even for the most experienced and knowledgeable photographers.

Noise removed using Neat Image

(Download)

Greenguy33 Loc: Rhode Island

You say that you put it in Aperture Priority. That is what Aperture Priority does. If you don't want settings to change, use Manual setting.

Jules Karney Loc: Las Vegas, Nevada

Gotcha and thank you for your knowledge and reply.

donnahde Loc: Newark, DE

I shoot basketball for many different schools for my yearbook photography job with 2 D7100's - one with a 35mm 1.8 prime when I'm standing just behind the basket and the other with my 85mm 1.8 prime for when I'm shooting from the stands or from a wider angle. My ISO varies from 1250 (rare) to 3200 depending on the lighting conditions in the gym. I do NOT use variable ISO - I select my ISO. I may change it during the game because sometimes light is better at one end of the gym than the other. ISO noise is not an issue for me because yearbook prints are relatively small. I use shutter priority at 1/500 when possible but no lower than 1/320. My aperture is usually between 1.8 to 2.8. Hope this helps.

Jules Karney Loc: Las Vegas, Nevada

Hi Nick: I believe the problem will be solved when the camera in total is set on manual mode. Good shooting.

rogerl Loc: UK (Harrogate, North Yorkshire)

I apologise if this is slightly off topic. I upgraded from D200 to D7100 in March &, after 40+ years of having cameras, bought my first guide book. I learned so much that I recommend Darrel Young's book 'Mastering the Nikon D7100' (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Mastering-Nikon-D7100-Darrell-Young/dp/193753832X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=U... ). The instruction book told me how to use the menus - Young told me why! I love the D7100.

Kuzano

The digital myth about manual settings.

Putting the camera on M so that you can fully control the exposure, BUT leaving the ISO on Auto Is NOT shooting full manual!

Full manual means learning about the effect of

1) Controlling the Aperture to a specific opening size with a full understanding of the effect of the opening size on depth of field.

2) Controlling the shutter speed to a specific speed with a full understanding of how certain speeds either stop action or allow blur or panning motion.

3) Setting ISO to a certain number with the understanding of the impact of "noise" or as we used to call it on film, graininess in the image.

No, I am not saying graininess in film is the same as noise in digital, but I am saying conceptually they are similar.

But back to the point..... setting the aperture, and setting the shutter speed to specifics and still allowing the ISO to wander to the capability of the sensor by leaving ISO on Auto, is NOT shooting full manual.

We had little choice on film because each roll of film has a set speed for the roll. If you wanted to shoot in low light, you chose the film ASA/ISO accordingly.

However, what most people who have not shot much film do not know, is that film at a specific ASA could be set for another speed. The process was called "pushing" or "pulling" the film by setting the camera speed at a different rating than the film was rated for. So, even with film we could control the grainy look by manipulating each shot.

Dealing with noise in digital is not much different than what we do with film, BUT there was never a concept of Automatic film speed changes. We make conscious decisions on film speed, while we can let the ISO wander with digital automatic.

When we let any aspect of the triad of exposure wander automatically (by the programming in the camera computer), we are NOT shooting in full manual.

Again,

Manual shooting means that you:

1) Pick and fix the aperture to one opening size.
2) Pick and set the shutter to one speed of open/close.
3) Pick and set a speed to one constant for the frame.

If you don't set each of those controls, you are not shooting full manual, and your images will ALWAYS change with the shooting conditions.

The lowest or "native" ISO of any sensor is usually around 100 or perhaps 200 ISO, with many controllable settings above that. Shooters who choose to shoot in smoky bars, or night time Rodeo or Football Stadium venues end up generally with noise (grainy look) that is somewhat controlled by using very high ISO.

But Automatic ISO never puts you in full control of the camera.

Jules Karney Loc: Las Vegas, Nevada

Thank you for your input. It's appreciated.