snoops

I seem to be doing something wrong - how do I get all faces to be in focus ? Dumb question but Im trying to learn

(Download)

Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington

Looks like the cutie on front left either moved, or was too close to the camera, while you focused on center or further back. Read up on your camera's options for focus points, and be sure you use a shutter speed fast enough for fidgity children :)

I rewrote my reply after reading Shellback's clear and concise information on depth of field below.

Depth of field calculator:
http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html

Shellback Loc: North of Cheyenne Bottoms Wetlands - Kansas

Depth of field control is the key to keeping multiple objects in focus -
By increasing your depth of field, you have more "in focus" range -

Basics for controlling depth of field -
Increase depth of field:
*Narrow your aperture (larger f-number)
*Move farther from the subject
*Shorten focal length

Decrease depth of field
*Widen your aperture (smaller f-number)
*Move closer to the subject
*Lengthen your focal length

You can google depth of field and find many articles that provide in-depth explanations.

Hope this helps...

camerapapi Loc: Miami, Fl.

Well, after reading the preceding answers to your question there is little I can add since both answers have been excellent. Notice you did not offer any technical information for us to evaluate the shot.
Whenever confronted with groups indoor when you want everything in focus it is necessary to resort to small apertures for more depth of field. Many cameras have face detection but in my humble opinion that is not the answer, the answer is depth of field.
It does not seem to me as if you used flash and bounced flash or umbrellas are a good alternative for something like this portrait. If someone moves just slightly the flash will freeze the movement.
Another thing to keep in mind, never take just one shot. In a split of a second mood changes, a smile changes and why not an expression changes. Always take several shots.
Perhaps that person that blinked an eye with a new shot will have his or her eyes open.

big-guy Loc: Peterborough Ontario Canada

Just so you realize what Picasa is doing to your photos. Copied directly from the metadata of this photo...



As well as stripping the metadata out of every photo it also seems to take over ownership of your photo. Now just how does Picasa become the artist???

Apaflo Loc: Anchorage, Alaska

For practical purposes, lens focal length makes no difference, and the aperture setting is the real way to control depth of field when shooting group photos.

That is because regardless of the lens focal length you will want to position the camera to get the right framing for a group. With some given focal length you have to be a certain distance away to frame it right, and that gives you a specific DOF at a set aperture. Change the lens focal length to twice as long means you have to move twice as far away to get the same framing... and that gives you exactly the same DOF!

So, whatever lens you have, position yourself for the composition you want and the set the aperture to get sufficient DOF. You can then balance shutter speed and ISO to get a proper exposure. Ideally shutter speed will be fast enough to freeze motion when the kids get animated (and you do want them to be). If necessary it might well be best to use a flash bounce off the ceiling to get enough light. And the flash will also help freeze any motion too.

And shoot several shots! It costs nothing more to take 100 pics than it does to shoot only two.

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

Also, get folks more on the same plane, reduce the distance between the closest person and the farthest person.

The reality of how people sit has little correspondence to what makes a good picture

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

Very important when traveling. :D

snoops

Thank you so much for the help - I had no idea about Picasa -I was shooting in Auto with umbrellas for lighting - Thanks again I will keep trying I know it's me not the camera -- It would be really nice if they offeres some classes locally . Merry Christmas to everyone .

greg14

I have a naive question :

Is there any difference when shooting at F8 with either a fast or not so fast lens.
I am talking focus not quality.
In other words :
Taking a picture with a 28mm 1.8 or a zoom at 28mm F4.

I realize there are other lens with a higher #, 3.5-5.6, I just do not own any to test.

JimEaco

Greg,
F# of a lens is the widest possible; but still adjustable.
So, yes, a 'f1.8' lens can open wider (to 1.8) than a 'f4' lens:
But both can close to f5.6... or F8 etc.
Be it a zoom or a prime, if set to f8 at 50 mm they are the same (Quality of manufacturer aside)

A good (Higher priced) lens is almost always better than a lower priced lens, but not necessarily. Do not get sucked into thinking you can buy better photos, a good mechanic can preform miracles with average tools. But a bad mechanic (photographer) gets no better with expensive gear.

I hope this answers your post.

On this forum I have observed some stunning photography from mid to below average gear, and I have also seen some real disasters from very expensive gear...

IMHO: You will ALWAYS get better results by improving technique than by improving gear.
You have to be damn good before the equipment makes a remarkable difference.

RonMe Loc: San Antonio

I've always been told to focus on the face that is closest to the camera, so that might be something you might want to consider.

JimEaco

Hmmm..., I believe AF (Auto Focus) operates (focuses) at the widest possible aperture (using maximum available light to set focus) and then readjusts to selected aperture to make the shot. It is theorized the added light provides faster focus. So that would imply an f2.8 maximum lens should autofocus faster than a f4 maximum aperture lens.
Personally, I think it would be very difficult to notice the difference in real time.

romanticf16 Loc: Commerce Twp, MI

Wrong, Set your camera for manual focus and focus 1/3 into the group. Or, if you have 3 rows of people,focus on the middle row- at an f stop that will bring all 3 rows into focus( usually f8 or 11).

Meives Loc: FORT LAUDERDALE

There were no exif files in your download? With the camera data we would be able to check aperture. If wide open it would be a pour DOF (depth of field). Then by increasing the ISO you could stop down on the lens opening. David