Joanna27 wrote:
Thank you. I like it. It more dramatic. Would you mind posting the orginal? I want to study what you and Billy did.
Can you tell me what you did? How do I handle noise and graininess with the adjustment brush?
This was done in Lightroom and I'm not sure how things translate into Photoshop procedures. I believe that Photoshop has brushes that you can feather, and if there isn't a way to employ auto-masking for the brush you can work on selections.
In #2 one of the areas that was selected to work on (the grainiest and blotchiest bits of the sky) is highlighted in red. On the right you can see the adjustments for that particular selection. The feathering didn't need to be so high, but I find that the brush is less likely to force an unwanted selection if you use feathering. And when you don't use auto-mask the feathering is necessary to avoid making hard-edged selections.
You can see that the Sharpness slider is to the left (this is a heavy-handed way to smoothen) and the Noise slider is to the right (a more delicate and less intrusive way to smoothen). Negative Sharpen is needed with heavy grain whereas positive Noise works with fine noise and fine grain. I lead with Noise and if necessary follow up with negative Sharpen. And for the
really persistent stuff......
...... the Clarity slider is to the left, as is the Contrast slider. You don't want to lose contrast and clarity across the whole shot (i.e. globally), but it can be OK in a selection (i.e. in a local adjustment) and it will help persistent graininess and blotchiness to blend in more unobtrusively.
Now about that graininess........ #3 shows the brightness settings for the individual colours after conversion to B&W. Darkening blue can be very effective for introducing darkness to the sky, but the trouble is the adjustment affects blue in the whole frame. And the same thing applies to all of the other adjustments. These sliders are so effective at targeting specific colours that if you're heavy-handed with them they can cause graininess and blotchiness. And the same thing applies to adjustments in the HSL section for colour shots. Anything more than moderate adjustments from the central setting and you risk causing graininess which can be very persistent and difficult to reduce.
My main intention for this edit was to deliberately push the contrast to give you an idea of the possibilities. I could have gone much further but realism would have been lost completely. So I was happy to darken blue substantially, knowing that I could counteract the blotchiness with the Adjustments brush (to a certain extent). But for a normal edit I would have been more moderate with that and the other colour adjustments, and if I wanted more contrast I would have done it in the main edit and with more selections.
Now about the main edit..... #4 shows the global adjustments that I used to manipulate the brightness and contrast levels. Most of it's fairly obvious. It might seem a bit strange that I went positive with the Whites and negative with the Highlights, and in a similar vein went positive with the Shadows and negative with the Blacks. With these you do whatever suits the image. There are no universal dos and don'ts - except maybe that maxing the Whites and Blacks (till they show up as saturation) will help you to achieve maximum contrast overall......
.........then again maximum contrast isn't always a desired objective. I only occasionally push the whites to the point of blowing the highlights and usually back off a bit from that extreme.
You just have to use your eye to judge what the image needs, and if you have to find out by experimenting every inch of the way, that's fine. In fact if you do that instead of using pre-sets you'll learn lots more.
PS - I usually criticise others for leaving skies visibly grainy or blotchy, so lets keep this edit between ourselves...... :-D .
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