Chefneil wrote:
...So I brought out one of my old film cameras. I want to have a back up camera in case my main one goes south on me. I can't get another digital camera right now, so we go to film...
...I was lucky and got a shot of a rail road that came out pretty nice, but it is on a negative, so I cannot do anything to it right now. I asked one of my local photo store dealers to transfer it to a USB. He suggested I just do it myself. I thought I could use my computer screen as a light box and it would all be cool!
Not so much.
I figured I would just tape the negative to the screen and fill the field-of-view with the image of the negative. Then I would use the Invert feature in Photoshop.
I played around with lenses and stuff and finally got the thing to fill the frame using a kit 18-55 zoom. The image came out OK, I guess. It is hard to tell, what with it being a negative and all. But when I looked at the RAW file in Photoshop I saw a matrix of of black dots throughout the whole image. I guess it has to do with the way the monitor lights up the screen. The image was not usable. I am not going to go through the whole image and get rid of each Individual dot. So, I need to figure out another way.
I tried something else.
I have a case of bright white Office Depot copy paper. Now what could go wrong here?
Let me tell you.
There is something about beer and fine focusing that does not seem to work so well together. But that is a story line we can talk about later. After refuggiring(? right spelling here?)the right lens and correct distance from the display, I shot the negative.
Again, "Not so good."
It seems that the imperfections of the copy paper(filter) come through. In other words when I look at the image on my digital camera, I see swirls from the copy paper that effect the perception of the negative.
Bottom line: If I use nothing between the negative and the screen, I see the dots of the monitor. If I use a sheet of paper as a filter, I see the pattern of the fibres inside of the sheet of paper.
Short of buying a light box, does anyone out there have any ideas for a DIY light box?
olc
...So I brought out one of my old film cameras. I ... (
show quote)
There must be countless videos online (YouTube) that teach you how to make a slide copier/negative copier using a piece of PVC pipe and a smartphone, or other low tech gear.
If you want *professional* results, either buy an Epson scanner that comes with proper software and a backlit scanner lid for scanning negs and slides,
OR,
get a proper slide copier setup (T adapter for your camera, plus bellows, a macro lens or enlarger lens, and a T adapter for the lens, plus a diffused white (5000K to 5500K) light source). Slide copiers work GREAT for copying black-and-white negatives and slides. If you can pull curves in Photoshop or other PP software, you can reverse and color correct color negs to some degree.
Color negatives have that orange mask. It is different for every single brand and type and emulsion number of film! So you have to experiment a bit to get rid of it, even when using software designed to get rid of it.
There is also the problem of exposure affecting the "slope" of the response of the three dye layers. A correctly exposed image can look normal, while an underexposed neg of the same scene might be dark and red, and an overexposed neg of the same scene might appear light and yellow. Yes, exposure affects color balance! So keep that in mind.
In my professional school portrait lab days, 2000 to 2005, I ran a film scanning room. Each Fall, we scanned about 2.5 MILLION Kodak Portra 160 Professional Film negatives, so we could process the images digitally.
To do that, we used nine, $55,000 Bremson HR500 scanner setups, networked with Kodak DP2 Digital Print Production Software... It was all *very* high end. It was the only system I've ever used that could achieve absolutely perfect results (i.e.; photographed subjects looked natural!), but we spent a week each fall calibrating the scanners for the current truckload of film we had...
The scanners were ALL GONE by 2007, since we were out training school photographers to use digital cameras in 2005, 2006, and later... Talk about a rapid paradigm shift! We went from all optical printing in 1994 to all digital printing in 2004, and all film capture in 2000 to all digital capture in 2007.
The color dyes in film negatives fade quickly, so OLD negatives tend to be quite faded. You may spend a lot of time reversing them and getting the curves pulled properly... and still achieve only pastel, low contrast results.
Using film will teach you that you want a digital camera... unless you're one of those old farts that grew up with film and never entered the computer era.