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Film Negative to digital
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Nov 9, 2015 07:59:53   #
BobHartung Loc: Bettendorf, IA
 
Chefneil wrote:
So I brought out one of my old film cameras. I want to have a back up camera in case my main one goes south on me. I can't get another digital camera right now, so we go to film.

I took the Canon TX out and shot a roll to see how it looks. Well, let me just say that shooting with film is much different than digital. Mostly you don't machine gun pictures. One thinks about each shutter snap taken; exposure, composition, aperture, things as simple as winding after each shutter actuation and even lighting. Not only does it cost more to print a film image, the time it takes to see what I have done is soooo much longer. One cannot even see it on the back of the camera.

I hope that my ability to take a better photograph will be enhanced because of all the consideration I take when shooting with this old fashioned tech. At any rate, I am enjoying the thought process involved.

When I shot the first roll, I was lucky and got a shot of a rail road that came out pretty nice, but it is on a negative, so I cannot do anything to it right now. I asked one of my local photo store dealers to transfer it to a USB. He suggested I just do it myself. I thought I could use my computer screen as a light box and it would all be cool!

Not so much.

I figured I would just tape the negative to the screen and fill the field-of-view with the image of the negative. Then I would use the Invert feature in Photoshop.

I played around with lenses and stuff and finally got the thing to fill the frame using a kit 18-55 zoom. The image came out OK, I guess. It is hard to tell, what with it being a negative and all. But when I looked at the RAW file in Photoshop I saw a matrix of of black dots throughout the whole image. I guess it has to do with the way the monitor lights up the screen. The image was not usable. I am not going to go through the whole image and get rid of each Individual dot. So, I need to figure out another way.

I tried something else.

I have a case of bright white Office Depot copy paper. Now what could go wrong here?

Let me tell you.

There is something about beer and fine focusing that does not seem to work so well together. But that is a story line we can talk about later. After refuggiring(? right spelling here?)the right lens and correct distance from the display, I shot the negative.

Again, "Not so good."

It seems that the imperfections of the copy paper(filter) come through. In other words when I look at the image on my digital camera, I see swirls from the copy paper that effect the perception of the negative.

Bottom line: If I use nothing between the negative and the screen, I see the dots of the monitor. If I use a sheet of paper as a filter, I see the pattern of the fibres inside of the sheet of paper.

Short of buying a light box, does anyone out there have any ideas for a DIY light box?


olc
So I brought out one of my old film cameras. I wan... (show quote)


The answer is a good flat bed transparency scanner.

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Nov 9, 2015 08:38:30   #
DirtFarmer Loc: Escaped from the NYC area, back to MA
 
You can use your monitor or the sheet of paper.

The key is that you want the monitor or sheet of paper to be well out of focus compared to the film. That means you have to place the film several inches in front of the monitor or the paper. Given the size of the film, a foot would probably be plenty.

Use the largest aperture consistent with getting good focus all the way across the film (allowing for a little curl)

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Nov 9, 2015 08:48:34   #
rob321
 
i have done this several times on old negatives i have i took a macro lens on a dslr and set up a strobe flash to a unbrella i thnen used a radio trigge and shot the negative hand held i use the white unbrella as the back ground

it turn out ok but film is not the same as digital

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Nov 9, 2015 09:39:51   #
rdmesser2 Loc: Central Florida
 
If you just want a light box to view slides or negatives there is an app for your tablet or smart phone called Light Box. I have it on my smart phone and it is free.

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Nov 9, 2015 10:01:15   #
Old44
 
If you have an iPad, the white screen makes a wonderful light box.

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Nov 9, 2015 10:07:34   #
Chefneil
 
I like the idea of using the window for a light source, But it has been raining so much lately I cannot rely on it.

So I went to the Ap Store and found something for $1.99 that turns the iPad into a light box. I will post the image when I get it later tonight.

Thanks everyone for such good input. We RULE at UHH!

olc

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Nov 9, 2015 10:28:04   #
Dan821 Loc: Traveling........
 
Chefneil wrote:
I like the idea of using the window for a light source, But it has been raining so much lately I cannot rely on it.

So I went to the Ap Store and found something for $1.99 that turns the iPad into a light box. I will post the image when I get it later tonight.

Thanks everyone for such good input. We RULE at UHH!

olc


What app did you decide on? I have been thinking about using the Ipad for a lightbox but couldn't decide on what app to use.
Thanks for any info!

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Nov 9, 2015 10:53:02   #
Chefneil
 
Dan821 wrote:
What app did you decide on? I have been thinking about using the Ipad for a lightbox but couldn't decide on what app to use.
Thanks for any info!


It is called Light Box. I have not used it yet. I wonder about the dot matrix that is the monitor.

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Nov 9, 2015 10:56:18   #
Darkroom317 Loc: Mishawaka, IN
 
Chefneil wrote:
It is called Light Box. I have not used it yet. I wonder about the dot matrix that is the monitor.


You may be able to diffuse it with a piece of frosted mylar

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Nov 9, 2015 11:13:11   #
burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC
 
Chefneil wrote:
...So I brought out one of my old film cameras. I want to have a back up camera in case my main one goes south on me. I can't get another digital camera right now, so we go to film...

...I was lucky and got a shot of a rail road that came out pretty nice, but it is on a negative, so I cannot do anything to it right now. I asked one of my local photo store dealers to transfer it to a USB. He suggested I just do it myself. I thought I could use my computer screen as a light box and it would all be cool!

Not so much.

I figured I would just tape the negative to the screen and fill the field-of-view with the image of the negative. Then I would use the Invert feature in Photoshop.

I played around with lenses and stuff and finally got the thing to fill the frame using a kit 18-55 zoom. The image came out OK, I guess. It is hard to tell, what with it being a negative and all. But when I looked at the RAW file in Photoshop I saw a matrix of of black dots throughout the whole image. I guess it has to do with the way the monitor lights up the screen. The image was not usable. I am not going to go through the whole image and get rid of each Individual dot. So, I need to figure out another way.

I tried something else.

I have a case of bright white Office Depot copy paper. Now what could go wrong here?

Let me tell you.

There is something about beer and fine focusing that does not seem to work so well together. But that is a story line we can talk about later. After refuggiring(? right spelling here?)the right lens and correct distance from the display, I shot the negative.

Again, "Not so good."

It seems that the imperfections of the copy paper(filter) come through. In other words when I look at the image on my digital camera, I see swirls from the copy paper that effect the perception of the negative.

Bottom line: If I use nothing between the negative and the screen, I see the dots of the monitor. If I use a sheet of paper as a filter, I see the pattern of the fibres inside of the sheet of paper.

Short of buying a light box, does anyone out there have any ideas for a DIY light box?


olc
...So I brought out one of my old film cameras. I ... (show quote)


There must be countless videos online (YouTube) that teach you how to make a slide copier/negative copier using a piece of PVC pipe and a smartphone, or other low tech gear.

If you want *professional* results, either buy an Epson scanner that comes with proper software and a backlit scanner lid for scanning negs and slides,

OR,

get a proper slide copier setup (T adapter for your camera, plus bellows, a macro lens or enlarger lens, and a T adapter for the lens, plus a diffused white (5000K to 5500K) light source). Slide copiers work GREAT for copying black-and-white negatives and slides. If you can pull curves in Photoshop or other PP software, you can reverse and color correct color negs to some degree.

Color negatives have that orange mask. It is different for every single brand and type and emulsion number of film! So you have to experiment a bit to get rid of it, even when using software designed to get rid of it.

There is also the problem of exposure affecting the "slope" of the response of the three dye layers. A correctly exposed image can look normal, while an underexposed neg of the same scene might be dark and red, and an overexposed neg of the same scene might appear light and yellow. Yes, exposure affects color balance! So keep that in mind.

In my professional school portrait lab days, 2000 to 2005, I ran a film scanning room. Each Fall, we scanned about 2.5 MILLION Kodak Portra 160 Professional Film negatives, so we could process the images digitally.

To do that, we used nine, $55,000 Bremson HR500 scanner setups, networked with Kodak DP2 Digital Print Production Software... It was all *very* high end. It was the only system I've ever used that could achieve absolutely perfect results (i.e.; photographed subjects looked natural!), but we spent a week each fall calibrating the scanners for the current truckload of film we had...

The scanners were ALL GONE by 2007, since we were out training school photographers to use digital cameras in 2005, 2006, and later... Talk about a rapid paradigm shift! We went from all optical printing in 1994 to all digital printing in 2004, and all film capture in 2000 to all digital capture in 2007.

The color dyes in film negatives fade quickly, so OLD negatives tend to be quite faded. You may spend a lot of time reversing them and getting the curves pulled properly... and still achieve only pastel, low contrast results.

Using film will teach you that you want a digital camera... unless you're one of those old farts that grew up with film and never entered the computer era.

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Nov 9, 2015 11:13:49   #
mallen1330 Loc: Chicago western suburbs
 
All these great ideas to re-photograph your film seem like a lot of work to me -- for less than best results. Consider the Wolverine slide and film scanner. It's only $106 from B&H. I got mine on sale at Costco of all places for $85. I'm working my way through thousands of slides and B&W film. It creates a high-res .JPG 5472 x 3648 pixels. I still need to do PP to remove dust specs and many of the same adjustments I now do with my digital shots. Here's several examples:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/allenteam/albums/72157658036187839

https://www.flickr.com/photos/allenteam/albums/72157657841606971

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Nov 9, 2015 12:53:53   #
dhowland
 
If you have an iPad - you can try this

http://www.slrlounge.com/clever-diy-solution-use-ipad-preview-film-negatives/

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Nov 9, 2015 13:21:39   #
wj cody Loc: springfield illinois
 
mallen1330 wrote:
All these great ideas to re-photograph your film seem like a lot of work to me -- for less than best results. Consider the Wolverine slide and film scanner. It's only $106 from B&H. I got mine on sale at Costco of all places for $85. I'm working my way through thousands of slides and B&W film. It creates a high-res .JPG 5472 x 3648 pixels. I still need to do PP to remove dust specs and many of the same adjustments I now do with my digital shots. Here's several examples:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/allenteam/albums/72157658036187839

https://www.flickr.com/photos/allenteam/albums/72157657841606971
All these great ideas to re-photograph your film s... (show quote)


after all these comments, no one has figured out that the best way is film to PRINT! hedgehoggers don't seem to mind the continuous flow of dollars for the next big thing, but complain about the insignificant cost of film and paper. evidently, no one really cares about their digital results, if it's not worth printing!

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Nov 9, 2015 13:35:59   #
Darkroom317 Loc: Mishawaka, IN
 
wj cody wrote:
after all these comments, no one has figured out that the best way is film to PRINT! hedgehoggers don't seem to mind the continuous flow of dollars for the next big thing, but complain about the insignificant cost of film and paper. evidently, no one really cares about their digital results, if it's not worth printing!


I optically print from my negatives. I figured they wouldn't care so it wasn't worth mentioning.

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Nov 9, 2015 13:42:45   #
DJO
 
I just have high Rez scans done at the time of developing (the darkroom.com).

Here's an example


Using what method or device? How hi-res is "high Rez"? How many pixels at what DPI? (or PPI).

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