I have an HP desktop with a standard HP monitor and running PSE 11 on Windows 7. I've had two all-in-one printers now, an HP and an Epson. Both render too much orangey or yellow saturation on some subjects, typically sunsets or people with tanned skin. I'm using HP paper in both, could that be the problem? Since it occurred on two brands of printer I don't see how calibrating the monitor and then the paper would be an issue. I did dial down some of the red and boosted the blue in PP and it seemed to help. Your advise would be much appreciated.
Post scans of the bad pix!
I have the same problem with all of my printers. I have an HP and 2 Canons. All of them add red or magenta. I try to print true lavender and get magenta. It's great for red rock pics, but not so great for other stuff. I've tried toning down the red and/or magenta, and they still print the same way. I'm looking forward to responses you get.
First thing to do, I would think, is try a different paper?
You should not expect 'photo quality' prints from a four ink printer. That is why photo printers have eight or more different ink cartridges.
Calibrating your monitor will improve your printing, because then your monitor will better match the standard color output of your printer. It does not matter if you understand why or not. Monitor calibrating works.
Without a calibrated monitor WITH a custom ICC profile installed and activated in your operating system, you are flying blind.
WITH a calibrated and profiled monitor, you can examine the contents of files with complete confidence that what you see *can be* printed accurately!
If the images appear yellow-orange on a CALIBRATED and PROFILED monitor, the white balance of the camera was probably set incorrectly for the light falling on the scene. Either that, or someone monkeyed with the color on an UN-calibrated, UN-profiled monitor.
Accurate printing depends on using a printer, ink, paper, and ICC profile combination THAT WERE MADE FOR EACH OTHER.
You can tie these together in one of two ways:
You can buy ink, paper, and printer from the same manufacturer, and install the printer company's driver software (it includes paper profiles). Then you can choose the correct paper type (profile) in the driver, at print time.
OR
You can make (or sometimes download) a custom profile for each paper, ink, and printer combination you use, and store the profile in your operating system according to the profiling software's or paper manufacturer's instructions. Then you choose the correct profile at print time.
I use a $100 Epson all-in-one, with Epson ink and papers. My 12-year-old cheap Dell monitor is calibrated. My prints look so good, I have had professionals ask me what lab I'm using.
For years, Epson won DIMA Shoot-Out after DIMA Shoot-Out at the annual PMAI conferences, and to the casual observer, their test target prints from $100 four color devices looked almost as good as test target prints from their big $5000 multi-color devices (which looked phenomenal!).
If your images don't look perfect on a calibrated, profiled monitor, they won't look good on paper. And lord help you if you adjust the color and brightness or other parameters of an image on an UN-calibrated and profiled monitor. That will really make a mess!
Calibrating a device linearizes its response, but profiling it adjusts what it does to conform to a standard, as much as it is capable of conforming to that standard. This two-step process requires a colorimeter and a piece of software.
Color management is the single most important enabling factor in the development of digital photography. It allows near-perfect reproduction of reality, or a very reasonable facsimile thereof. You can spend hundreds of dollars wasting ink and paper, or just buy a calibration/profiling kit from X-RITE or ColorVision Systems' DataColor and get it done.
OH, and that inaccurate white balance thing? The tool to get THAT right, by setting a CUSTOM white balance, is a Delta-1 Gray Card (less than $10), or an ExpoDisc (expensive), or a PhotoVision One Shot Digital Calibration Target... or similar. I have and use all three, in different situations... There are many similar devices on the market.
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