Macronaut Loc: Redondo Beach,Ca.

I also have to wonder if your lighting is adequate or your target has enough contrast for proper testing?

CO

It sounds like your camera is focusing on a slightly different spot on the target since the target is at a 45 degree angle. Very slight camera movement could do that. I think you would need to use a vertical target and a ruler at a 45 degree angle. I use the DataColor SpyderLensCal which is the same principle.

The latest edition of c't Digital Photography magazine - Fall issue #21 has an excellent 16-page section on autofocus. They discuss different ways of calibration. It should be a Barnes & Noble and Books-A-Million stores now.

jimmix7 Loc: England

Yes I do wait untill it focuses it beeps and I fire, there is no hunting the focus point is found no problem. I have both on focus release in the menue, I have tried to post 3 images not sure if they send, there is a distinct shift in focus. I was thinking of buying one of those Focus stands but at £50+ I have second thoughts.. Thank you all for advice again :-)
The 3 images would not send.. Back to square one I think.

Dngallagher Loc: Wilmington De.

If you try posting, DO NOT SELECT PREVIEW or the image will be discarded and not sent.

You may need to post each image separately, if they are large.

wotsmith Loc: Nashville TN

go to www.birdsasart.com and he has a tutorial on fine tuning lenses and he also sells the $70 gizmo that helps speed the process.

RRS Loc: Not sure

Do you take the focusing ring and move it to infinity prior to each test shot thus enabling the auto focus to work? Light your target well, I spot meter my ruler for equal light at both ends and in the middle too. I use the "LensAlign". I also set a high enough ISO so as to have a fast shutter. Also set your camera up to take only single shot and use a single point for focusing. I notice that you said you are using an f/2.8 lens but sometimes it will only register f/3.5, if that's the case you may have a problem with that lens. Try some of your other lenses and see how they work. You can go on line and look up "LensAlign" and look at the distance chart and it will also give you what the DOF, front and back focusing for your lens too. It may seem complicated but once mastered it's easy.

billnourse Loc: Bloomfield, NM

Don't know if Nikon has it or not, but my Canon came with EOS Utility which allows for controlling the camera with a laptop. I was able to use it in live view to find the calibration I needed to micro adjust the camera for a lens. I got the instructions for the micro adjustment with a Google search. If Nikon has something similar, it I pretty easy to get things just right.

My $1,700 24-70 f 2.8 L needed +5 at both ends of the zoom range. Go figure.

This might help also.
http://www.sandrophoto.com/2010/02/22/af-micro-adjustment-tutorial/


Bill

ole sarg Loc: south florida

Remember, I think but could be wrong but you will have to tune for each aperture. If, I am right you are wasting an awful lot of time. Seems to me that fine tuning a lens is really much ado about nothing

billnourse Loc: Bloomfield, NM

Just tune for wide open at both ends of the zoom range. It's not a waste of time if the lens is off as much as my 24-70 L was. Everything I took was soft to the point that I had called Canon and got authorization to send it back when I found a method to calibrate for it. I knew it was in my camera because it focused perfectly with the wife's T5i.

Bill

RRS Loc: Not sure

No you don't have to tune for each aperture. Tune at the max aperture and this is only for AF. One other point is that if the AF is off just a little and you are shooting outdoors in good light at f/5.6 and smaller you my not even ever notice a problem because of the added DOF with the reduced aperture.

Bill Emmett Loc: Bow, New Hampshire

I used to use the yardstick method, but found it to be to cumbersome. Managing all those settings becomes a drag. Take a look a FoCal, a program by Reikan Technology. They have just upgraded the program to Version 2.0 in September. Get the "Pro" version, it will make all the adjustments for you. You'll get a great target, with all the proper contrast, just light it up, and go on. You'll need to shoot tethered, and after all the shots of each lens you'll get a full report on the tested lens. It will also make the micro adjustment in the camera for you. Print the manual, and keep notes on your lenses. The manual comes in two parts, Testing Guide, and the actual manual. The guide tells you how to do the test, as to set-up, and distance from target etc. The manual, tells how the test works, and what all the results mean to you, and the lens. FoCal also keeps a running comparison of each of your tested lenses, and will compare a current calibration to a previous calibration of that specific lens. You can do the calibration either indoors, or out. A long lens may need to done in the yard or park to get good results on the long end. FoCal is also great for zooms, at any increment.
Reikan will give you life long updates on the program, and send you details about any upgrade. The program will also troubleshoot any lens problem relating to focus, color, astigmatism, and aperture sharpness. It's a great program.

B

MMC Loc: Brooklyn NY

I have Reikan Focal and can not say that I am happy with it because it does not work in full automatic mode with Nikon cameras. It takes much longer time then using yardstick method. And it is not cheap.

jethro779 Loc: Tucson, AZ

I notice the pricing is in Pounds Sterling. Will it convert in the shopping cart?

jimmix7 Loc: England

I have tried posting them seperate, they were only 3 images of the chart i shot but still would not load..

jimmix7 Loc: England

Thank you for this ,,