Griff Loc: Warwick U.K.

If you do your own processing the main snag you are going to hit is 'loading the spiral'.
This must be done in TOTAL, dust-free, darkness without sticking your jammy fingers all over the surface of the film. Unless you have access to a proper darkroom, a film changing bag (not the baby sort!) is a good substitute.
Before ruining your first shots, the best thing to do would be to sacrifice an out-of-date cassette, and practice so that you can load the spiral every time.
Cut the leader off between perforations and round the leading corners. Don't pull out too much film at one time- a foot or so is Ok.
[Many would criticise this as passing the film a third time through the grit prone jaws of the cassette, but for a beginner it is probably the most prudent course.]

N.B. The spiral must be absolutely dry - and DON'T forget to put the lid back on the tank!

Blasthoff Loc: Life halved NY and IN

I will be HONEST with you, unless you are doing your own developing and darkroom work, it's not going to make a hell of a lot of difference which silver based B&W film you use, if your sending it out to be processed. The results will be mediocre at best. In fact, if your going to send it out, it would probably be most practical to use one of the "chromogenic" C-41 process Black and White films (color print film processing). It is easier to have done, (it's processed the same as color print film), it's also probably cheaper then "silver" B&W processing, if you could find it at all, and the results will much more likely please you.

You need to understand that the REAL attraction of silver based black and white film was in all the variability of film emulsions to exposure, the variance of developers and development times and their effects on film speed, contrast, tonal range, film grain etc. That said, I haven't even touched the subject of printing which is even MORE variable! There is NO "one size fits all" with silver based B&W even within one film brand and speed. I've never seen commercial generic silver B&W processing/printing that was anything but "Blah" or worse. So, if your "sending it out" go chromogenic. The results might better lead you into getting deeper into the study of B&W.

I did a lot of Black and White back in the day. To truly learn, you chose 1 film and 1 developer and worked with it. Exhaustively! In my case, I used Kodak TriX and Kodak HC-110 developer and worked to get the widest tonal range and fine grain. Yeah, I was a committed second generation follower of technique originated by Ansel Adams and although I never got to work in large format, I got a solid education in learning what the real foundation of photography is all about.

Don Fischer Loc: Antelope, Ore

I don't think it matter's that much what brand you pick, they all have their follower's. I've never done street photography but if I did it would be a 400 speed film. Seem's like I'd always heard with Tri-X, set the ISO to 320! I like Illford B&W films myself but again that's just a personal thing. In the evening. Delta 3200 is still sold by B&H and in the evening it'would probably be a good idea. I'd hate to have to shoot with a wide open lens just because there's not enough light.

Darkroom317 Loc: Mishawaka, IN

He is correct. I was never happy with lab developing in fact many of my negatives were I sent out for processing were just awful. However, Michael Kenna goes to local labs wherever he is for development. He doesn't find developing worth his time. He puts it all into shooting and printing. A finely printed silver gelatin print is where film really shines. I would advocate developing yourself though as you can get the best negatives to get the best prints.

Kuzano

REMEMBER ONE THING.....

There has been a significant change in the processing world for film....

Most film processors are only returning prints, or digital on CD.

Most film processors are NO LONGER returning your negatives. Particularly BIG BOX and Pharmacy type processors.

Be sure to check with whoever you take or send your film to for processing. B/W without negatives means your only route is to go digital.

Of course there is still the option of home processing and a darkroom is not required with all the daylight processing methods available. Only need dark from the canister into the tank, then process in daylight.

rjaywallace Loc: Wisconsin

Ilford Delta 400 (maybe with a couple rolls of 100 as backup). Very good tone and contrast, tho others might disagree.

Don Fischer Loc: Antelope, Ore

if you think you might like to use a tripod, get a roll of Pan-F! 50 ASA but boy is it nice film!

wj cody Loc: springfield illinois

if you are not happy with tri-x, you might want to obtain a roll of ilford hp-4 - same asa of 400, i believe.
good luck to you, after all film is better!