WNYShooter wrote:
Sorry, but you are completely wrong except for your advise to not use it on a lens or camera. The two main components of WD40 are:
1) Naphtha, a petroleum product used to dilute oils.
2) Petroleum Based Oil, a lubricant.
It is a lubricant, just a very very low viscosity one.
Sorry to annoy you but I will settle for somewhat wrong. I have never been absolutely correct (or cared to be) about anything in my life. You however, were wrong in the use of the word advise instead of advice.
The OP got the message however, as many leapt on him for his proposed action.
Being correct on everything is highly overrated except on "parachute packing"! I did buy a used parachute once advertised as a being used once and did not open correctly.
And one always wants to have one technically good landing for every take off in flying.
But being totally correct about everything is so Effing boring.
My life has been rewarding and quite fun, in spite of my shortcomings.
Yes, it's a penetrating fluid for water and bolts frozen by rust, and there is a bit of lubricant in it, which one would be hard pressed to find after a couple of weeks.
I am now 72 and I've been "wrenching" and restoring automobiles since I was 18, and my dad was a mechanic and encouraged my vice/hobby.....
I used to buy WD40 by the case to remove bolts and stuck parts on rusty cars, but never solely as a lubricant.
I just picked up another car for a three car compilation to a show truck. I'm having a lot of fun in the process. :? :-o
Just in case you're STILL thinking of lubricating your own lens, not only will the lubricant work its way into the attached camera and ruin that too... and the next lens you attach to the body. And so on. A bit like syphilis!
WD 40 leaves a sticky residue which works well for squeaky doors, never for a camera, as it will gum up and attract dust etc. It does lubricate however, and has a myriad of uses but is not for precision equipment. That is my adviCe..
John_F wrote:
Like all new mechanical things, it takes a bit of a break-in usage of moving parts to get to smooth and easy. Remember, snugness of a ring means it won't move at the slightest nudge. You want a good comprimise between 'staying in place' and 'ease of re-positioning.'
Yes, that's why I decided to only break in the lens as after experimenting with it I am of the opinion that I won't have to use many of these stops on the aperture ring -- probably within the !.8 and the next stop. Even after turning the ring many times it is still not easy -- All you guys are so great -- I laugh a lot while reading your advice --- in some cases I feel as if I really know you.
Jackdoor wrote:
Just in case you're STILL thinking of lubricating your own lens, not only will the lubricant work its way into the attached camera and ruin that too... and the next lens you attach to the body. And so on. A bit like syphilis!
sound a bit like when we bought our first computer and the salesman was flogging us an antivirus program. terrifying ! ''the virus will be out of the computer and will attack you, your kids, your pets and defecate on your favourite garden gnomes''
i was looking over my shoulder the whole way home ;)
It would be wise to wear a mask when facing the screen
corryhully wrote:
sound a bit like when we bought our first computer and the salesman was flogging us an antivirus program. terrifying ! ''the virus will be out of the computer and will attack you, your kids, your pets and defecate on your favourite garden gnomes''
i was looking over my shoulder the whole way home ;)
Kuzano wrote:
STOP RIGHT THERE!!!
WD40 is NOT a lubricating oil. The purpose of WD40 is to penetrate and wash out all lubricants and free rust from joints.
If you use WD40 on any joint, ultimately the joint will have no lubricant, original or otherwise. What little lube there is in WD40 does not stay in the joint as a lubricant.
It is called a penetrating fluid by those who use it properly. No matter what it says on the can.
Roughly you are correct but not totally. It really is a lubricant although not the best.
It is basically, (it has other things to help also), a very light weight petroleum distillate. That in-turn allows it to penetrating in and around other things like rust particles. That is where the title fits in.
I used to repair clocks on the side. You'd be surprised at the number of people who asked me to repair their clock after spraying it a half year or so prior with WD40.
It works for a while and is a reasonable lube but it leaves a terrible oily film which attracts dirt. That in turn stalls the clock out.
I picked up a nikon 55mm micro that was very tight. I sat each day for about 10 days and now it is still tight but works fine!
daeod wrote:
I picked up a nikon 55mm micro that was very tight. I sat each day for about 10 days and now it is still tight but works fine!
So THAT's why the focusing ring on my old Astro Fernbildlinse is still tight. I'm going to sit for the next 10 days and try it again. :lol:
Juts sit tight, it will loosen
RWR wrote:
So THAT's why the focusing ring on my old Astro Fernbildlinse is still tight. I'm going to sit for the next 10 days and try it again. :lol:
sodapop wrote:
Juts sit tight, it will loosen
I've been trying to use that lens for over 30 years, guess I can wait another 10 days!
I agree!! DO NOT use WD40 or any lubricant. If it remains stiff after a reasonable amount of manipulation, contact the vendor. WD40 is just what was described - not a lubricant, but a penetrating fluid to remove sticky junk and free corroded mechanisms and screws.
Don't let all the neigh Sayers discourage you. There are specific greases and lubricants designed for your lens, it just needs fo be disassembled to apply them.
Jackdoor wrote:
Just in case you're STILL thinking of lubricating your own lens, not only will the lubricant work its way into the attached camera and ruin that too... and the next lens you attach to the body. And so on. A bit like syphilis!
Don't even think about it.
Just bought a Sigma 18 to 300mm and it was stiff, kept turning it and now it has loosened up a lot
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