NormanHarley Loc: Colorado

I want to experiment capturing bugs in flight using three diffused flashes. All three flashes are Yongnuo YN565EX N units, one will be on the hot shoe of my D610 to trigger the other two. I have the option of two different slave modes, one is using the optical slave mode and the other is the commander mode. Will the flashes sync better and freeze the motion simultaneously using one option over the other, or do both methods trigger the flashes so close together as to not matter and I can quit worrying about it? In depth explanations on how the radio vs the optical trigger are welcome! Thank you.
Norman

twowindsbear

Maybe - Find an object moving at about the same speed as the bugs that you intend to photograph. Shoot the object, firs with only the 1 flash on your hot shoe as a control, then using the other flashes in both the sync methods you mentioned. Then see which works best for you.

Good luck.

NormanHarley Loc: Colorado

Thank you, but I don't think even my fan moves as fast as a bug's wings do. I am trying to think of what I might have around the house that moves really fast.... ;)

birdpix Loc: South East Pennsylvania

The optical slave mode, known as S-1 is for use when manually setting the flash unit power levels. All slave units will flash at the same time as long as they can see the master flash unit. Any delay is so short as to be inconsequential. You can even have all the flash units off camera and use your pop-up flash, if so equipped, in manual mode to trigger them.

S-2, or what you are calling commander mode is for use when you use ETTL flash. It instructs the slave units NOT to fire when they see the pre-flash from the master but to synch with the actual flash using the instructions sent to it for flash power by the master unit. All slaves must be set to S-2 for them to work in this scenario. Any units that are set on S-1 will fire as soon as they see the pre-flash and their light will not register as they actually fire before the shutter is fully open. Again, any delay or lag time is inconsequential.

Either S-1 or S-2 will do the job for you. It all depends on what you are most comfortable with. A full manual system is simpler to set up but requires you to determine flash exposure. ETTL may be a little bit more complex to set up but then the camera will set exposure.

Using multiple flash units to stop high speed motion requires that the flash units fire at low power as that gives the shortest flash duration. You compensate for the reduced light levels by placing multiple flash units very close to the subject. Since flash duration at low power settings can be as brief as 1/15,000 of a second, shutter duration is of less importance. You do need, however, to be within the flash synchronization speed of your camera's shutter. In fact, you can adjust your shutter speed to change the ambient light exposure without impacting the flash exposure.

lighthouse Loc: No Fixed Abode

I have an idea for something to practice on that moves at exactly the same speed as the bugs you are trying to capture - it is ...... the bugs you are trying to capture!!!!

NormanHarley Loc: Colorado

Thank you. Yes, I shoot in Manual, 1/200 shutter speed and set my aperture with a flash meter. And the shorter duration of the flash using a lower output is why I want to use three flashes that are synced. Maybe I didn't post my question correctly, my flashes also have a radio trigger and I wanted to know if using that mode is more accurate than using the optical slave. Thank you!
:thumbup:

birdpix Loc: South East Pennsylvania

I own the Canon version of the 565 EX and they do not have integral radio triggers. Both modes: S-1 and S-2 work optically.

birdpix Loc: South East Pennsylvania

Are you saying you have radio triggers that you have added to your flash units? Radio triggers would be a bit more dependable in bright sunlight and would have a greater range but would not be any faster in response as both radio waves and light waves move at the same speed.

NormanHarley Loc: Colorado

I am so new to flash units, I think I did misunderstand about the commander mode and thought it was a radio trigger. My bad. Still trying to figure it all out. Thank you for the information. ;-)

jim quist Loc: Missouri

I use pocket wizards on my flashes. I don't know why you want to use three flashes. but something that you might want to try is setting the camera on a tripod. use bulb mode to open the shutter, and use your thumb to trigger one flash several times to catch the little critter in motion with several images on the same frame.

NormanHarley Loc: Colorado

I will look up pocket wizards to find out what they are. Thank you. I want to use three flashes because they will be diffused which will cut down their light output along with using a short flash output which further cuts down on my light to freeze the wings. These shots will be taken of bees being lured into a positioned flower in flight and I want enough light from the three flashes to be able to use a smaller aperture (f/11 on my 105 macro) to increase my depth of field, which is very narrow to begin with. My test shots so far are not very good, but they are properly exposed and the lighting is even with no hot spots or lost detail in shadows. Those bugs are FAST! And yes, I am using my 11 pound aluminum tripod along with two flash brackets.

RWR Loc: La Mesa, CA

Do you have any bugs around the house to practice on? :lol: With three flash units you'll gain about 1 1/2 f/stops vs. one unit, so the extra depth of field should help in getting the bug in focus. Interesting project!

rlaugh Loc: Michigan & Florida

Very interesting!!...thanks to all responders...this is what a photography site should be about!!

naturepics43 Loc: Hocking Co. Ohio - USA

Check out this: http://gizmodo.com/5995394/this-laser-shutter-photography-rig-freezes-insects-in-flight

this is unit used for what you're trying to accomplish http://www.cognisys-inc.com/products/high-speed-shutter/insect_rig.php

Catching insects in flight is much easier than trying to catch them in flight AND freeze the wing motion.
Good luck!

zigipha Loc: north nj

in order to get 3 distinct shots with the three flashes, you have to make sure that each flash is on while the others are off..and that the thing you are capturing moves appreciably during the three shots
1. flash durations, as mentioned, can be as short as 1/15000 but get longer if you go full power, up to 1/1000 of a second.
2. so to get three imagse, you need to have
2.1 flash 1 go on off, THEN
2.2 flash 2 go on off. THEN
2.3 flash 3 go on off.
I have no idea how you can control that w/o a lot of fancy circuitry. if the flashes overlap then you will just get blurry wings