JimH123 wrote:
I have the polar scope, and it is a big help. I am able to determine where Polaris should be in order to hit true north.
Alignment usually goes well, unless of course I align to a wrong star! That really messes things up!
I also purchased the polar scope for the AVX, to say the least I was not impressed.
A) It should come standard with the mount, add an extra 50 bucks, at twice the cost of one new it would be worth it, if they collimated it to each particular mount.
B) It should be illuminated, or have an easy way to illuminate it without being a hideous DIY, like pvc sticking out of the front of the mount.
C) It is nothing more than the polar scope for the CG-5 with the setting ring removed.
I used mine for a couple months and had inconstant results some days it was dead on other days 5-10 degrees off. I tested its collimation, to determine it was horrendous off. I never bother trying to collimate it before just because it sounded complex.
With the wife's help and a tiny allen wrench I set about fixing its error to the best of my ability. Here is how I accomplished it.
During the day, when it is easy to actually view through it properly, site it on a distant object like a church steeple telephone pole or really anything that you will be able to judge the rotation of.
With nothing in the saddle, I did have the counter weight bar on, but no weights. You do not have to worry about being level, that is one of the benefits of a German Equatorial Mount.
Start with the RA axis being horizontal with the saddle facing East-ish. rotate the mount so the saddle is now facing to the complete opposite side of the mount. How far you are off of your original centering point, in my case a pulley on a barn roof .25 of a mile away, is half of the amount of error your polar scope has.
When I tried to perfect my polar alignment I was spinning the eye piece not the mount through its RA axis. This in reality was just exacerbating the error but I didnt know.
By rotating the mount back and forth all the while adjusting the three little screws on the polar scope so that there is absolutely no movement of the reticule while the mount traverses along its RA axis.
Then with the freeware Stellarium and utilizing the ocular plugin that comes standard with Stellarium, just needs to be turned on and your information added. Your sensor size in mm dimensions, resolution and pixel size. then your scopes info and it will show you the exact field of view you will see from your camera. With this it shows me how far off of Polaris in relation to the frame of my image I need to be. Doing this you should be able to get within seconds of perfect alignment.
All in all it took me about three days to do it all. Hopefully this helps someone, because my night was a complete waste again, LOL. Some nights it works great, others like tonight are a complete flop.
Matthew
I will bet it will be drastically off,