oldeman,
I did exactly that. I started in the early '50s with a Brownie, a Kodak twin lens reflex and a Kodak Pony 135 slide film camera, and ended in the 80's with a Yashica rangefinder. By the 90's I was using a Kodak bridge camera, then a series of higher MP Lumix cameras. About a year and a half a go I bought a Nikon D3100 on ebay and a bunch of Nikkor film lenses to use in manual mode. A few months later I got the film bug looking at flicker picture pools for Velvia 50 slide film and medium format film cameras. I bought a used Mamiya 645 1000S and a couple of lenses on ebay. I got a roll of 36 exp. 120 Velvia 50 slide film and a prepaid mailer for processing the transparencies on B&H for about $25.
So far I have shot and processed that one roll. On the plus side, to me, the color and resolution cannot be duplicated with my D3100 and photoshop. I know I'll get lots of flak for that but that's how my eye sees it, so no apologies. I'm considering shooting a red white and blue flag in the corner of all my digital shots and cropping it out, just to get better color. The velvia 50 is 100% realisitic right out of the camera. If I shoot my cd case which has hundreds of different colors on the cd jackets, the velvia gets every color 100% the same as my eye sees them. Every digital shot, regardless of how much PP with photoshop and film emulations, etc. is a compromise and can never get every color and shade spot on. The exact same is true for lanscape colors including blue skies and white clouds, etc. Bear in mind, you would never notice the disparity in the digital colors unless you compare them to the velvia. The mind ignores it.
So why have I only shot one roll since I got the camera? Well if you used to spend a whole day tuning your v-8 engine with dwell angle testers, spark gap tool, and strobe light, replacing plugs and points, getting the timing perfect so that your engine purred like a contented baby lion, and now you just turn the key on your electronic ignition, that's is why.
When you get the velvia 50 transparencies back, if you want all that film resolution, you need to scan them (free scans are basically crap and defeat the entire process) at something like 4800dpi. This gets you a 240MB tiff file to bring into Photo shop where you need to use the spot healing brush tool to remove each dust spec and fiber by hand, which takes about 20 minutes per slide. Any auto dust removal software is also crap and leaves approriately colored band-aid patches in place of the dust and fibers. Then you can save it to an 80MB jpg which you can show on flickr or down size the jpg to a 20MB jpg you can show on UHH.
Do I plan to shoot film again? Yes. I bought a used Nikon 135 F1 that I can use with my film lenses and a roll of 35mm velvia 50 slide film and a prepaid mailer at B&H for less than $25. I'm waiting for summer flowers and colors to give it another try. But all cameras and films are tools for specific purposes. For birding I use a Nikon J1 with the FT1 adapter and a Nikkor 55-300mm zoom which gives me center spot auto focus with an 810mm equivalent field of view. In this case (in my budget) getting the close up shot at all trumps resolution and color.
Bob
oldeman wrote:
After years of digital photography, I'm acknowledging the urge to return to medium-format film work again, specifically thinking about picking up a Bronica. The cost of film and processing is a fact, however. Yet, the image should be equivalent to 50 mp...a great sharp image. Has anyone had any experience returning to the "film roots" of photography?