foodviseyummy

what is a good light meter to buy using a 35mm manual camera

lightcatcher Loc: Farmington, NM (4 corners)

Gossen LunaPro

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

Sekonic 308S or 358.

f8lee Loc: New Mexico

You first must understand that there are two ways of measuring light with a hand-held meter. "Reflective light" meters read the light bouncing off the subject and give you a reading - this is what all in-camera meters are. A subset of this type is the "spot meter", which takes a reflective reading through a lens with a very small angle of view.

"Incident" light meters are used to read the amount of light that is hitting the subject (as opposed to the light that reflects off the subject). When you see a photographer stand next to the model (or whatever) holding a meter and taking a reading, he or she is getting a measure of the amount of light that is striking the subject.

Generally speaking, incident meters give better results as they are not "confused" by how reflective the subject is. The downside of them is that you need to stand next to the subject to get the reading; not so hard with a model 7 feet away, somewhat more difficult with a mountain 20 miles away.

The point is, both methods of light metering have their place, so you should get a meter that enables both kind of readings. Skein and Gossen were the big names back int he day, and both make meters now. Take a look at the B&H website to see the various models and price points; you don't mention a budget so that might help you decide.

foodviseyummy

thanks for the information i'm looking at a gossen luna pro model

nicksr1125 Loc: Mesa, AZ

B&H has several ranging in price from $120.00 to $150.00. You'll also want to order a couple Wein cells as the original mercury batteries are no longer available.

BebuLamar

$120-$150 for a Gossen Luna Pro? I wouldn't buy them.

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

Minolta Autometer IIIF from KEH for under $100.
Meters flash as well.
http://www.keh.com/285007/light-meters-minolta-auto-meter-iiif-ambi-flash

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

I have two Gossen LunaPros - one is my first lightmeter, purchased in 1969, and the other is a used Lunapro SBC I bought three years ago. The main difference is that the older one uses PX625 mercury batteries, which are no longer available. You can get a Wein MRB625,which uses nickel and no mercury, to replace the mercury one. But they don't last very long and they cost $5 apiece. The SBC uses a 9v battery.

You can find these on Craiglist and eBay for around $60. Three years ago I found a seller on Craigslist who sold me an original LunaPro and an SBC, along with a flash attachment, for $60. I sold the old Lunapro for $50 on eBay, with a brand new set of Wein batteries to a happy buyer, and kept the SBC.

The are excellent studio meters, and ok when used an an incident meter outside. But you are better off getting a light meter that can measure a 1 degree spot, which will more accurately measure the contrast range and allow you to make informed decisions about where to place the luminace values in your scene. This involves a good working knowledge of the zone system.

Leicaflex Loc: Cymru

I have used a Weston V for years, very reliable. No batteries.
Spot on every-time.

http://scruss.com/enterprise.net/weston/

camerapapi Loc: Miami, Fl.

This is a question based on generalities. It would have be much better if you had offered some information based on what you intend to use the new meter for.
You have been already told about the three varieties of hand held meters that are available, spot, reflective light and incident light. Incident light meters usually meter flash light also and are invaluable for studio work. As stated, you have to be in the same light as your subject when using an incident meter.
Reflective light meters are those used in camera and although evaluative and matrix meters are reflective types also they evaluate the whole scene and use algorithms built-in to determine the exposure adding compensation when necessary. The meter is in control, not you unless you watch carefully the histogram.
The angle of acceptance of a reflective meter varies. If the angle of acceptance is too wide the reading of the main subject will not be as accurate as when using a meter with less acceptance since other objects in the field of view will modify the reading.
A spot meter is very accurate but requires knowledge on the part of the operator since the angle of acceptance is usually 1 degree. In camera spot meters could have a 1 degree reading with a tele but it will be more with a wide angle so the angle of acceptance varies.
As you can see your question is not easy to answer because more information is needed.
I use a Minolta incident meter mainly for study work and rely on the center weighted and spot meter capabilities of my camera for the majority of my exposures.

waegwan Loc: Mae Won Li

I use a Minolta IV F, I have to admit that I got it and use it bacause it was available and I got cheap, around $80 used in a second hand store about 7 years ago. I was hopping to run across a good Sekonic or Gossen to replace one that I bought in Germany that I misplaced and lost. :( The Minolta has proven to be a good meter, it uses a single AA battery, I'm happy with it.

waegwan Loc: Mae Won Li

I have a Weston, don't recall model number and I'm too lazy to get up and look. It was a favorite for years but it did get to the point where it was unrelaible. I suppose it needs to be calibrated but never looked into it. But yea, I really like the no battery feature. :)

waegwan Loc: Mae Won Li

I see the Luna Pro F model meters flash. GoofyNewfie mentions the Milolta III with flash metering as does the Minolta IV. If it is in the budget it is a really nice feature to have for use with slave flash.

Bluesboy Loc: Leigh, Lancashire, UK

I use a Sekonic Twin Mate (L258, I think)- Very small & really accurate. Uses a CR232 battery. I also use an old Weston V & a Russian made Leningrad 4, both of which still work perfectly.