Neutral Density Filters: I keep hearing about neutral density or ND filters. From my own investigations it usually refers to a filter with the upper half darkened to reduce the light...

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Neutral Density Filters

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Mar 9, 2012 02:01:19 #

georgevedwards Loc: Essex, Maryland.

I keep hearing about neutral density or ND filters. From my own investigations it usually refers to a filter with the upper half darkened to reduce the light from the sky. I keep thinking that only works if you are taking a picture with a perfect horizon line. How about some knowledgeable and experienced members post some examples of how it can be used? I would appreciate it, looking at 'official sources' leads me to believe it is altered to illustrate a point. I would like to see some actual photos from real photographers and how they have succeeded with it.

Mar 9, 2012 04:41:52 #

kinghen

I have 3 nd filters the are 0.03, 0.06, and 0.09 I think the ones you are refering to are graduated neutral density filter they are dark on top and get lighter as you go down. Mine are solid from top to bottom. I use mine for water shots. They realy work well! The brand I have is Dolica. Here is a short cut to the grad filter. Sorry I don't have any pictures to post right now.
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/understanding-grads.shtml

Henry

Mar 9, 2012 06:20:30 #

effrant Loc: New Hampshire

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/graduated-neutral-density-filters.htm

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/neutral-density-filters.htm

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Mar 9, 2012 07:55:45 #

Roger Salls Loc: Stratford, CT

George, When using GNDs the first thing to realize is that you DON'T want to stop down very much. The reason being that the more you stop down the more visible the graduation. As an exercise,put on your GND, shoot a series of images all correctly exposed start with you lens wide open and stop down one stop per image until you're at f22 or what ever your lens will stop down to. As you stop down you will see the graduation of the filter become more and more apparent until at f22 or so, you will see a definite line across the image go back to about f11 and you will notice that that line is very soft and not noticeable. That is the point where you shouldn't go past when using a GND. I find the best stop is usually about f8 everything looks natural and not divided.

georgevedwards wrote:

I keep hearing about neutral density or ND filters... (show quote)

Mar 9, 2012 15:26:43 #

georgevedwards Loc: Essex, Maryland.

I checked out the link and it was very helpful. I did not know there were other kinds of ND filters than the screw in type. The movable type does solve a lot of my concerns. But it does point out that if a tree is in both areas for instance, part of it will be darker than the other part, which is what I wondered about.Thanks.

kinghen wrote:

Mar 9, 2012 15:29:23 #

georgevedwards Loc: Essex, Maryland.

Another good bit of advice that hasn't been mentioned i some of the tutorials I seen. Thanks for the info on how f-stops affect the appearance of the gradation.

Roger Salls wrote:

George, When using GNDs the first thing to realize... (show quote)

Mar 9, 2012 15:36:39 #

georgevedwards Loc: Essex, Maryland.

Thanks for the links, they extended my knowledge from what I had found online!

effrant wrote:

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/graduated-neutral-density-filters.htm

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/neutral-density-filters.htm

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Mar 9, 2012 15:36:39 #

georgevedwards Loc: Essex, Maryland.

Thanks for the links, they extended my knowledge from what I had found online!

effrant wrote:

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/graduated-neutral-density-filters.htm

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/neutral-density-filters.htm

Mar 10, 2012 11:24:04 #

fotomat1

I make extensive use of a circular polarizing lens but never used a gnd filter; it has served me well and I have it ready-to-go whenever needed; just wondering if a gnd could improve my images.
thanks,
matt

Mar 10, 2012 11:35:40 #

martinfisherphoto Loc: Lake Placid Florida

They work very well, but you have to be careful as they will cast a shadow across other objects in front of the clouds your blocking with the filter. But as you can see I metered off the clouds and the shadows came out pretty nice, not so dark back deep in the photo. I place the Line right below the tree tops. Of coarse works better with a perfect flat horizon, but can be worked with.

georgevedwards wrote:

I keep hearing about neutral density or ND filters... (show quote)

Mar 10, 2012 11:39:16 #

martinfisherphoto Loc: Lake Placid Florida

Polarizers are good, but limited in their use also, only work best when shooting 90 degrees from the sun where as a ND you can shoot into the sun and get the reduction of light your looking for.

fotomat1 wrote:

Check out True Macro-Photography Forum section of our forum.

Mar 10, 2012 11:56:58 #

fotomat1

appreciate your response; will definitely look into a gnd filter as I find myself shooting "into or from" the sun with the polarizer which is ineffective.
thanks again,
matt

Mar 10, 2012 12:36:33 #

llindstrand Loc: Seattle Metro

georgevedwards wrote:

I keep hearing about neutral density or ND filters... (show quote)

I always use graduated neutral density filters on sunrises & sunsets. This allows the foreground to show colors instead of black and unlocks more of the impressive cloud colors on the sides of the sun. I also use them on a lot of daylight pictures when shooting in the bright sun. Depending on the brightness of the sun I will use multiple filters to control the light. I just purchased a full neutral density filter to use on waterfalls. It allows the foamy water colors to come through without blowing it out. The attached pictures would not have been possible without the filters. The foreground would have been black and the sun would have blown out the clouds. The last picture allows the small boat to show in the foreground. It gives richer colors to the sky esp. the first one which had storm clouds that show. Good Luck!
Swede

Sunset