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Mar 16, 2015 08:48:45   #
Heather Iles Loc: UK, Somerset
 
Thanks for sharing your photograph. That is exactly what I am looking for in my photographs. You can really see the outlines of the leaves. That is what I mean by making the photo pop. My term for being very sharp.

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Mar 16, 2015 12:08:40   #
MtnMan Loc: ID
 
Heather Iles wrote:
Thanks for sharing your photograph. That is exactly what I am looking for in my photographs. You can really see the outlines of the leaves. That is what I mean by making the photo pop. My term for being very sharp.


This one would be sharper if I had used a tripod. Handheld, even with VR, isn't ever as sharp as on a tripod.

Since I want to use low ISO (low noise) and a high f-stop (depth of field) Shutter speed becomes limiting. In some cases with trees the wind forces the compromise to demand higher shutter speed.

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Mar 16, 2015 14:28:20   #
Heather Iles Loc: UK, Somerset
 
I am out on Thursday with our local U3A Photographic Group in one of our local parks, so I will take pictures of trees. I will use my wide lens AF, F22 and my camera is set at auto ISO AND I WILL USE MY TRIPOD. Have you anything else to add to that would be appreciated.

I will explain to those who wonder what a U3A. It stands for University of the Third age and is for those over 50 who forms groups and learn from each other.

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Mar 16, 2015 18:46:16   #
minniev Loc: MIssissippi
 
Heather Iles wrote:
I am out on Thursday with our local U3A Photographic Group in one of our local parks, so I will take pictures of trees. I will use my wide lens AF, F22 and my camera is set at auto ISO AND I WILL USE MY TRIPOD. Have you anything else to add to that would be appreciated.

I will explain to those who wonder what a U3A. It stands for University of the Third age and is for those over 50 who forms groups and learn from each other.


Take some with other apertures (F10 and thereabouts) and compare them. F22 is not always a good choice due to diffraction. Also, take some with the ISO set to its base level, set your aperture and let the camera pick the shutter speed to get a proper exposure. This way you can find what settings give you the results you are looking for.

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Mar 16, 2015 19:41:27   #
PVR8 Loc: Raleigh, NC
 
Great shots...
marcomarks wrote:
Perfectly Clear plug-in. You get a Lightroom and Photoshop version when you purchase. Make the photo as good as you possible can yourself, then open Perfectly Clear and it analyzes every pixel of the photo to determine an excellent modification. If it's too intense, the tools it uses are on the right side of the screen and you can back down or minor tweak anything that you feel is overkill. It doesn't always make colors more brilliant but sometimes actually decreases color saturation for better realism. But you can boost it back if you like. You'll notice that the examples I've attached actually have decreased color saturation but the scene "pops" better because of others changes PC made.

I do real estate photography and have created a custom preset in it for my purposes and it's saving me at least an hour and a half of editing interior shots every night on 25 - 30 HDR/Fusion TIFF photo files because it's a one click solution.

If you decide to order it (you can have a fully functional trial for 30 days if you like), Google search for "Perfectly Clear discount coupon (or code)" and you'll find codes to put into the Perfectly Clear order form that create massive discounts sometimes as much as 50%.
Perfectly Clear plug-in. You get a Lightroom and ... (show quote)

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Mar 17, 2015 13:26:23   #
Heather Iles Loc: UK, Somerset
 
Thanks for your help. I will have a go and hopefully will be able to post one of my photos. Thanks for taking the time to respond.

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Mar 22, 2015 19:30:54   #
Heather Iles Loc: UK, Somerset
 
Sorry, I forget to say thank you. I have made a note of what you suggest and will have a go.

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