graybeard wrote:
A two part question. 1. on third party lenses - can I be fairly certain that as a rule of thumb they are designed for T-mounts, and all that is necessary to mate lens to body is the proper T-mount, which will have screw threads matching the lens on one side and the various camera mounts on the other side? 2. On native lenses, ie Canon, Nikon, Pentax etc is it possible to mount unlike lens to body? ie Nikon to Canon, Pentax to Nikon etc. Would this be accomplished with a specific adapter? Thank you.
A two part question. 1. on third party lenses - ca... (
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1) no not really, take a company like sigma for example they will have versions for a number of different camera systems including their own with mounts to suit each camera system. Tameron developed its adaptall system where they designed a number of dedicated mounts taking a common lens. So you could have one with the canon mount and if you had the pentax k or ka adapter you could switch mounts.
Mostly from a users point of view you want a lens with an aperture ring and manual focus.
Manual focus doesn't necessarily mean you focus unaided. For example on my k200d there is a hexagon on the display which is solid when focus is achieved it also has in-body stabilization where you select the focal length when you turn on the camera,(for zooms you choose a focal length you intend to shoot at).
2) Registration distance is key to a successful mounting. Each lens is designed to focus the light a set distance behind the lens, with a camera with a mirror, that is a fair distance away. Pentax and Nikon have very similar distances and canon is shorter. Which means canon tends to be able to accept an adapter which has a canon lens mount on the rear and has the body side of a pentax or nikon mount on the front and holds the lens at its designed registration distance.
There can still be problems where the rear of the lens (especially zooms) can protrude to far into the camera body and get in the way of the swing of the mirror. with movable rear elements this might occur at the wide end but not at the telephoto end. Best to examine a lens carefully to see if it is safe before fitting it to your camera.
Where the registration distance is similar between camera bodies it is impossible to have an adapter that is small enough to hold the lens at its designed registration distance. So an adapter with a corrective lens has to be used usually with a single lens element (your camera now wears glasses). By inserting this element into the light path you will tend to be degrading the iq of the lens , like cheap reading glasses they are unlikely to be perfect for this pairing.
You are probably aware of extension tubes which hold a lens a little further away from the camera body which increases the magnification of the lens which is good for close up focus but loses infinity focus. Like reading glasses, great for macro or near macro imaging but useless beyond that limited range.
Mirrorless camera's have a much shorter registration distance than camera's with a mirror box, this makes it easy to make a cheap glass less adapter for most SLR lenses. Unfortunately with the micro 4/3rds systems you have a 2x crop factor which complicates things say a 150mm - 250mm zoom behaves as a 300mm - 500mm zoom which is great for small things far away.
However your wide angle lens will generally be 28mm effectively 56mm which isn't wide angle any more. You could use a 18-55mm lens designed for a cropped sensor camera which gets you to an effective 36mm field of view but because they were designed for automatic use, there is no aperture ring which leaves you shooting wide open, giving a narrow depth of field which is generally not what you want when shooting a landscape (i guess you might focus stack to compensate).
On the other-hand you generally will have a 14-42mm lens designed for mirrorless that you got with the camera, with the drawback its generally f3.5 at the bright end wide open. Not so good for indoor shots without flash.
There is also the speed booster type adapter which is available. This will lower IQ to a degree, it essentially works like a light funnel concentrating the incoming light on to the area at the back of the camera where your sensor is instead of spilling light all over the back of the camera. It effectively doubles the light by a stop but also highlights the weaknesses of the lens especially at the edges. It does readjust the crop factor by multiplying the focal length by ~0.7 so a 50mm full frame lens acts like a 35mm and the 2x crop factor makes it 70mm effectively For telephoto 300mm f4 would be similar to 420mm f2.8 and while it may be bad at the edges birders might not find it too bad as they tend to have to crop anyway.
On the other hand without the speed booster your 300mm is behaving like a 600mm , so upping the iso might not degrade the iq as much as adding the speedbooster optical element.
M42 lenses tend to be adaptable to most mounts, fully manual and can be very good in practice. You do need to research the lens though, being old doesn't automatically mean good.
There is also a danger you might find you become a collector of old lenses more than a photographer.