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New User of a CANON 70D
Nov 20, 2014 13:23:51   #
steve1949
 
I used my 70d for the first time at a basketball game last night. I was so happy to have an ISO OF 12,800. More light than ever needed.

SO I cranked it up and set the shutter speed to 500. None of the pictures came out clean, not a one. Not so much out of focus but noisy. Going out again tonight.

Is it just matter of over doing when not necessary to crank ISO up so high" My Canon T3i maxed at 6400 ISO and all the pics were fairly sharp under the conditions, in the same gym but fought for enough light at time.

New to the 70d and have not had time to learn by experience as yet and I'm out to do a shoot today in another gym settings.

would sure like to have good clear crisp shots today.

So again, an unnecessary, or over doing the ISO if not needed to be set that high?

Other things about this camera I'm not too happy with...But that's another subject.

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Nov 20, 2014 15:36:56   #
MT Shooter Loc: Montana
 
Keep your ISO at 2400 or below and you will like the results. The 70D starts getting bad noise at 3200 and gets progressively worse above that point.
Good luck.

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Nov 20, 2014 17:11:27   #
SharpShooter Loc: NorCal
 
Steve, try using Auto ISO and see if your shots improve, especially if your light is changing from shot to shot.
If you are happy, you can leave it there or look at a sampling of meta-data and you could use an ISO that the camera seems to use a lot.
The advantage to A-ISO is that when necessary the camera will go as high as it needs but those shots will be noisy. BUT, many of them will be low ISO and those will be very clean.
On a set ISO, EVERY shot will have the same amount of noise, which may be more noise than was needed for that particular shot. Good luck. ;-)
SS

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Nov 21, 2014 08:18:48   #
JCam Loc: MD Eastern Shore
 
MT Shooter wrote:
Keep your ISO at 2400 or below and you will like the results. The 70D starts getting bad noise at 3200 and gets progressively worse above that point.
Good luck.


MT, doesn't that apply to most (almost all?) cameras?

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Nov 21, 2014 08:23:23   #
dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia
 
You did not mention what lens you were using. Were you in full manual? What apeture?

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Nov 21, 2014 09:16:54   #
MT Shooter Loc: Montana
 
JCam wrote:
MT, doesn't that apply to most (almost all?) cameras?


Absolutely not. High ISO performance varies greatly between camera bodies and is one of the critical parameters used in rating cameras.

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Nov 21, 2014 09:37:32   #
Japakomom Loc: Originally from the Last Frontier
 
I think dsmeltz is asking the most important question. What lens are you using? It is hard to get a nice clean shot without a fast lens.

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Nov 21, 2014 17:07:52   #
amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA
 
You probably just overdid it.

3200 should be usable unless you really pixel peep. I know folks using 70D to ISO 6400, and even higher, with just a little extra post-processing to clean up their images. It should be about 1 stop better than your T3i.

While there is some slight variation, high ISO with any camera will come at some cost. The best high ISO images are come from full frame, but that's at extra cost (both for the camera and for lenses to use upon it).

Do not turn on Auto ISO. That won't solve anything. All it will do is make it unpredictable, what ISO will be used in varying lighting conditions. If you are already using one of the auto exposure modes (Av, Tv or P), it's like doing auto-auto... no telling what you'll get.

Avoid underexposure like the plague. If you have to increase exposure in post-processing, you will greatly increase noise along with it. Also be sure you have the an accurate white balance set. I recommend a custom one. Shoot RAW, if not sure about white balance. That way you can adjust it after the fact. RAW also allows for a lot more adjustment in other ways. Experiment with different noise reduction methods to see what works best for you (with difference cameras, I've had good success with Noiseware plug-in for Photoshop.)

Many gyms are lit with mercury vapor, sodium vapor or fluorescent lamps. It's awful light to try to photograph under. All these types of lamps actually cycle on and off at a high rate (120 Hz in the US)... faster than the eye can see, but a camera can capture. This can lead to varying exposures and color shifts, that are easier to adjust in RAW images than in JPEGs.

A lot of arena/gym shooters forced to shoot without flash use f2.8 and faster lenses, because the light is so inadequate. It's a big expense to get a zoom in this range, but there are cheaper prime lenses that can work well. Canon 85/1.8, for example.

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Nov 22, 2014 05:34:45   #
steve1949
 
I've not ever had to educate myself on the different types of lens.....I've never done much of this indoor gym shooting with this camera. I'm Finding out what an amateur I am when it comes to talking lens....The price ranges are out of sight for me. But I am determined to get the best shots I can get in these gyms.

I plan on during more indoor sports events in the future and I need to get this process down.

I'm been taking pictures for decades but technically am weak...Indoor without flash? Never thought it could get so complicated at least for now.

I took 2000 pictures during four basketball games two nights ago. I thought I had the 70d set pretty good. What a mess. At least 500 were useless...The 1200 I kept took all night to be processed to look decent.

Back to learning....thanks all. GIVES ME SONMETING TO START WITH

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