I don't profess to be a pro, and have been serious about my hobby,
along with the skills needed to create great, well I actually will be happy with "good" pictures. I have begun shooting girls basket ball at the local high school with poor results. My rig consists of a D7000, Nikon 18-140 VR, a Nikon 80-200 2.9 and a Nikon 50mm 1.8. Most of the time I shoot at 1600-3200 ISO.
My pics are soft and not what I had hoped for. I did figure out after my first outing that trying to follow the action is next to impossible as direction changes are the norm. I think I need to pick a spot close to the basket, set up and wait for the action to come to me rather than trying to chase it with the lens. I
Your tips would be greatly appreciated and the girls HS basketball team will be happy campers.
Dana C wrote:
I don't profess to be a pro, and have been serious about my hobby,
along with the skills needed to create great, well I actually will be happy with "good" pictures. I have begun shooting girls basket ball at the local high school with poor results. My rig consists of a D7000, Nikon 18-140 VR, a Nikon 80-200 2.9 and a Nikon 50mm 1.8. Most of the time I shoot at 1600-3200 ISO.
My pics are soft and not what I had hoped for. I did figure out after my first outing that trying to follow the action is next to impossible as direction changes are the norm. I think I need to pick a spot close to the basket, set up and wait for the action to come to me rather than trying to chase it with the lens. I
Your tips would be greatly appreciated and the girls HS basketball team will be happy campers.
I don't profess to be a pro, and have been serious... (
show quote)
Hi Dana, What shutter speed are you using? It should be a minimum of 1/500. Otherwise I'd suggest a monopod or tripod and yes, shoot from as close as possible and let the action come to you.
Your high ISO is necessary for a higher shutter speed. The problem is there is much more noise which makes the images seem softer. Indoor high school sports are poorly illuminated.
Are you sure it is soft picture and not camera movement relative to the subject? Check this by practicing outside on moving subjects to see if it is your panning technique that needs improving. Try pigeons or sea gulls.
If you are using VR, you might want to try turning it off. It interfers when taking a panning shot. Because of rapid direction change, you may need to shoot closer to 1/1000 unless you are situated at the end of the court so that action is coming toward you. If it is going across and you are good at following with the VR off you could shoot at 1/800. It sounds like the 80-200 2.8 should stay on your camera since it is 2.8 through the whole range.
It's all a trade off.
You need a high ISO which will make the images appear noisy, in order to have a fast enough shutter speed to stop the action (avoid motion blur).
The closer to the action, the higher the impact the image will have as you fill your frame - but the tougher it is to follow that action, keep it in the frame, and NOT have blur or soft images.
If you get farther away (top of the bleachers maybe), it'll be easier to follow the action and freeze it - but you'll need to crop more (which will again make the images seem softer).
High school gyms also have poor and uneven light, which adds to the difficulty of getting proper exposures.
It would help if you posted some images with their exif so more specific feedback could be provided.
dannac
Loc: 60 miles SW of New Orleans
Shot my first high school game Tuesday.
Nikon D7100 - Nikon 85mm - 2.8 - 1/500 - iso 3200 - +3 exp.
Still came out dark, and viewed at 100%, lots of noise.
Though good enough for the local paper.
This image is right out of camera, no PP.
dannac wrote:
Shot my first high school game Tuesday.
Nikon D7100 - Nikon 85mm - 2.8 - 1/500 - iso 3200 - +3 exp.
Still came out dark, and viewed at 100%, lots of noise.
Though good enough for the local paper.
This image is right out of camera, no PP.
Take that to Lightroom and slide the shadow bar to the left about half way... it should be fine. ;)
Dana C wrote:
I don't profess to be a pro, and have been serious about my hobby,
along with the skills needed to create great, well I actually will be happy with "good" pictures. I have begun shooting girls basket ball at the local high school with poor results. My rig consists of a D7000, Nikon 18-140 VR, a Nikon 80-200 2.9 and a Nikon 50mm 1.8. Most of the time I shoot at 1600-3200 ISO.
My pics are soft and not what I had hoped for. I did figure out after my first outing that trying to follow the action is next to impossible as direction changes are the norm. I think I need to pick a spot close to the basket, set up and wait for the action to come to me rather than trying to chase it with the lens. I
Your tips would be greatly appreciated and the girls HS basketball team will be happy campers.
I don't profess to be a pro, and have been serious... (
show quote)
Yep..it looks like your issues are ISO related.
Good news; staying at the basket and waiting for the action to come to you is a good strategy.
You might think about shooting at 1/250 or even 1/125 to gain ISO.
IF you just shoot at 1/250 your ISO drops to 1600 and if you shoot at 1/125 your ISO drops to 800...much better.
dannac wrote:
Shot my first high school game Tuesday.
Nikon D7100 - Nikon 85mm - 2.8 - 1/500 - iso 3200 - +3 exp.
Still came out dark, and viewed at 100%, lots of noise.
Though good enough for the local paper.
This image is right out of camera, no PP.
That's great depth of field for 2.8. Nice shot!
rpavich wrote:
You might think about shooting at 1/250 or even 1/125 to gain ISO.
IF you just shoot at 1/250 your ISO drops to 1600 and if you shoot at 1/125 your ISO drops to 800...much better.
You'd be MUCH better off using a high ISO, faster shutter speed, and clean up the noise in pp, IMO.
Too much risk of blur at such slow shutter speeds, especially if you're reasonably close to the subjects.
Moles
Loc: South Carolina
With your 50mm 1.8, you should be able to get a fast enough shutter speed to avoid most of the motion blur. Try ISO 6400 and see if you can get a good shot without too much noise. Full frame cameras these days do OK at 6400, not sure about a 7100. Ask the refs if you can use a flash. I use a flash (SB 800) pointed upward at 45 degrees with a white card, which does the job without dazzling the players eyes.
Dana C wrote:
I don't profess to be a pro, and have been serious about my hobby,
along with the skills needed to create great, well I actually will be happy with "good" pictures. I have begun shooting girls basket ball at the local high school with poor results. My rig consists of a D7000, Nikon 18-140 VR, a Nikon 80-200 2.9 and a Nikon 50mm 1.8. Most of the time I shoot at 1600-3200 ISO.
My pics are soft and not what I had hoped for. I did figure out after my first outing that trying to follow the action is next to impossible as direction changes are the norm. I think I need to pick a spot close to the basket, set up and wait for the action to come to me rather than trying to chase it with the lens. I
Your tips would be greatly appreciated and the girls HS basketball team will be happy campers.
I don't profess to be a pro, and have been serious... (
show quote)
1. Let the action come to you. Notice that is what the pros do.
2. Experiment using various ISO setting at your chosen spot. The lower the ISO the less the noise.
3. Try shooting in B&W and the noise will add drama.
I've shot local HS basketball for a number of years with a Canon 7D. I've recently purchased a 7D Mark II and am amazed at how much better my pictures are. I used to shoot at ISO 1600 or 3200 but with the Mark II I am shooting at 6400 and am very pleased. I am using Canon L lenses 24-70 and 70-200 both 2.8. The only problem I am having is with the rapid fire of the camera I take way too many pictures and 80+% are keepers for the kids and their parents.
I am not a pro, but have shot a lot of basketball, in very poor light. I must say I was not happy till I got my Nikon DS3 and 70-200 f/2.8. I can use an ISO of 6400 and speeds of 1250 or 1000. You need the speed to get a sharp picture. And I concentrate on only 1/4 of the court and them only half of that most of the time. The best is setting down right near the end line.
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