wishiwasfishing Loc: texas

What is best mode on camera for bird photos?
Thanks.

mtparker Loc: Cape Charles & Springfield, Virginia

Depends on what the bird is doing and the capability of your camera's AF and auto tracking. There are a number of options.

What camera/lens combo are you using or planning to use?

St3v3M Loc: 35,000 feet

What camera?

wishiwasfishing Loc: texas

canon t5i with canon 100 to 400 zoom.
thanks

St3v3M Loc: 35,000 feet

camera settings bird photography
http://www.google.com/#q=camera+settings+bird+photography

You may also want to post to the Birds-In-Flight / Birds-On-Water Forum
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/s-112-1.html

dugole Loc: Matawan, New Jersey

BIF - I use at least a 9 point focus cluster, spot metering, F8-F11, at the very minimum 1/1200 and auto ISO and no IS.

Tree perched - single point focusing, spot metering, F4-F5.6, 1/300 - 1/600 with IS, and again, auto ISO.

The above would be for 300mm to 400mm. If I am using the Tamron 150-600 then I would compensate with a higher shutter speed in both cases.

These would just be starting points.

mtparker Loc: Cape Charles & Springfield, Virginia

Canon huh?

Now I'm out of my depth since I use Nikon. Still, using the various autofocus and tracking modes the T5i provides, you can practice to find what works best for you.

I'm sure a Canon guy/gal will respond here.

dugole Loc: Matawan, New Jersey

I also use the "servo" mode and do bursts when doing BIFs.

wishiwasfishing Loc: texas

Why no Stabilization?
Thanks for the help

dugole Loc: Matawan, New Jersey

IS conflicts with the panning motion. With Canon "L" lenses I don't have so much of a problem with the IS on but with the Tamron it is a different story. I've asked questions about IS on/off here and get some mixed answers but the general consensus is to keep it off when panning.

Rongnongno Loc: FL

Manual :evil:

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Exposure. For birds in flight, set the camera to spot meter to get a sense of the light - check your preview screen. If anything is blinking, use a faster shutter speed. Once you have established a proper setting, then switch to manual. This way the meter won't try to measure background/foreground. If they are perched, then use the spot meter to measure the brightest area on the bird, and have the exposure compensation set to +2/3 stop.You will have to play with this setting, so make sure you have a way to adjust it easily - assign it to a dial. In general your shutter speed should be 1/1000 or higher for action freezing, or as slow as 1/250 for showing motion and if you are panning.

Autofocus. Your camera should have a dynamic focus mode that keeps more than one sensor active fro tracking, but only uses one sensor to acquire focus. Avoid using the custom modes that offer recognition, etc since they work best when things aren't moving.

Vibration reduction. Set it to OFF and put tape over it in case you are tempted to use it. It robs sharpness at shutter speeds less than 1/600, and is a real pain if you are trying to shoot something that is moving. Stabilization only works in certain specific situations with non-moving subjects.

Use a sturdy tripod with a gimbal head, and get advice from other photographers who do this most of the time - look at Moose Peterson videos on shooting wildlife. Very informative.

Delderby Loc: Derby UK

Well - if I were you I'd stick with what you did for your Avatar - nice shot. :)

Delderby Loc: Derby UK

"no IS" - is that when your using a tripod? or is there another good reason? (I rarely shoot birds) :)

I've just read Gene's post - didn't really think about that before.

Bret Loc: Dayton Ohio

Agree