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Hasselblad lens on Nikon D800 or D300s
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Oct 25, 2014 09:20:29   #
R.G. Loc: Scotland
 
If my understanding is correct, crop factors can be applied wherever you want to apply them. Going from FF to DX requires a crop factor of 1.5, which is a ratio used to give the equivalent focal length, aperture and possibly other equivalent values, where the FF values provide the reference point.

Going from MF to FF would also require a crop factor, which in this particular case would appear to be 3.5. However, if you wish to continue the practice of using FF as the reference point, the process you would be looking at would be going from FF to MF rather than the other way round, in which case the 3.5 would have to be inverted - i.e. 1/3.5.

According to my 23 year old Casio calculator (still going strong), that gives a factor of 0.286. Applying that to the 150mm lens, it would have an equivalent focal length of 42.9mm (before anybody says "focal length is focal length", I'm referring to the 35mm equivalent focal length). In other words it would provide the same angle of view as a FF lens with a focal length of 42.9mm - which is something a bit wider than a FF nifty fifty.

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Oct 25, 2014 09:39:01   #
Jaime Loc: Los Angeles
 
I do not understand this thread. Why or how would you ever use a Hasselblad lens on a Nikon? If you are going to spend that kind of money, put it on a Hasselblad body! Bigger sensor and full 16 bit images. I use a 120 on an H3DII and the images are spectacular. But I also use an 85 and a 70-200 on my D3 and the images are great. I guess I just don't understand the logic of the initial question.

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Oct 25, 2014 09:40:38   #
khalidikram
 
oldtigger wrote:
didn't have a hassy lens but used a 250 mamiya on my D800 and measured a facter of 1.7

Hardly worth the trouble of adapting it.

Why do you ask?


Thanks. A friend who has given up photography offered me the lenses.

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Oct 25, 2014 09:44:34   #
khalidikram
 
Jaime wrote:
I do not understand this thread. Why or how would you ever use a Hasselblad lens on a Nikon? If you are going to spend that kind of money, put it on a Hasselblad body! Bigger sensor and full 16 bit images. I use a 120 on an H3DII and the images are spectacular. But I also use an 85 and a 70-200 on my D3 and the images are great. I guess I just don't understand the logic of the initial question.


Thanks for responding. I have been offered the lenses as a gift by a friend; (he has given the [film] bodies to someone else) . I'm not spending the money on the lenses, and I don't have it for a Hasselblad body!

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Oct 25, 2014 09:46:43   #
khalidikram
 
R.G. wrote:
If my understanding is correct, crop factors can be applied wherever you want to apply them. Going from FF to DX requires a crop factor of 1.5, which is a ratio used to give the equivalent focal length, aperture and possibly other equivalent values, where the FF values provide the reference point.

Going from MF to FF would also require a crop factor, which in this particular case would appear to be 3.5. However, if you wish to continue the practice of using FF as the reference point, the process you would be looking at would be going from FF to MF rather than the other way round, in which case the 3.5 would have to be inverted - i.e. 1/3.5.

According to my 23 year old Casio calculator (still going strong), that gives a factor of 0.286. Applying that to the 150mm lens, it would have an equivalent focal length of 42.9mm (before anybody says "focal length is focal length", I'm referring to the 35mm equivalent focal length). In other words it would provide the same angle of view as a FF lens with a focal length of 42.9mm - which is something a bit wider than a FF nifty fifty.
If my understanding is correct, crop factors can b... (show quote)


Thanks for the response.

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Oct 25, 2014 09:49:07   #
khalidikram
 
oldtigger wrote:
didn't have a hassy lens but used a 250 mamiya on my D800 and measured a facter of 1.7

Hardly worth the trouble of adapting it.

Why do you ask?


Thanks. I've been offered the lenses as a gift by someone who has quit photography. I'll probably just cough up for an adapter and see what happens.

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Oct 25, 2014 09:57:00   #
oldtigger Loc: Roanoke Virginia-USA
 
khalidikram wrote:
Thanks. I've been offered the lenses as a gift by someone who has quit photography. I'll probably just cough up for an adapter and see what happens.


given those options, i would accept the lenses and then procure a rise/fall/tilt adapter and turn the D800 into a sometimes view camera.

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Oct 25, 2014 10:31:11   #
f8lee Loc: New Mexico
 
PhotoArtsLA wrote:


As to crop factor, it's all about the image circle. This is why a 12mm lens for a one inch sensor has a different crop factor than a 12mm lens for an APS sensor. For another example, the 6mm f/2.8 Nikkor for full frame (24x36mm) will have a much larger crop factor than my 6mm f/1.8 Kowa for 1 inch sensor size.


Alas, this is an incorrect statement. "Crop factor" is a marketing term created to make the difference between angle of view of a given focal length on a DX versus FX body. If a given lens' design does not have a large enough image Circle, then the result will be vignetting on the sensor, not a change in angle of view.

The important points here are:
1) angle of view is the critical question in terms of what view the camera sees, and
2) The angle of you calculation is purely derived from the focal length of the lens and the size of the image sensor.

Again, a 150 mm lens is a 150 mm lens - certainly there are 150 mm lens designs with various diameter image circles, but so long as the image circle covers the film or sensor and vignette get is not a problem they will all produce the same image on the sensor.

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Oct 25, 2014 10:43:10   #
WAL
 
The crop factor question keeps cropping up. People have been using zoom lens for decades. Do they ever worry about the crop factor when they zoom in or out? As long as the lens covered the sensor you will see that you get. Just like a zoom lens. Does any one care how much the lens was zoomed in or out?
We should get a section of the UHH for questions about the earth being round.

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Oct 25, 2014 11:06:56   #
khalidikram
 
oldtigger wrote:
given those options, i would accept the lenses and then procure a rise/fall/tilt adapter and turn the D800 into a sometimes view camera.


Thanks, good suggestion. I did not know that one could get a rise/fall/tilt adapter.

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Oct 25, 2014 11:19:35   #
Pablo8 Loc: Nottingham UK.
 
I have used my 250mm 80mm and 50mm Hasselblad lenses via an adaptor, on my D300 body. I did not panic over crop factors, mathematic formula.. calculations etc. What I saw through the viewfinder, was captured on the sensor. No viginetting obviously, as the lenses were designed to cover a much larger area than an APS sensor. Of course, with a Tilt/shift adaptor, one can also have the joy of movements also.

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Oct 25, 2014 11:20:02   #
dragon64 Loc: Stewartstown PA
 
After reading this discussion it really made me appreciate all of the years I spent with my film cameras, even my simple little Kodak Brownie I had as a kid.

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Oct 25, 2014 11:25:55   #
oldtigger Loc: Roanoke Virginia-USA
 
f8lee wrote:
Alas, this is an incorrect statement. "Crop factor" is a marketing term created to make the difference between angle of view of a given focal length on a DX versus FX body. If a given lens' design does not have a large enough image Circle, then the result will be vignetting on the sensor, not a change in angle of view.

The important points here are:
1) angle of view is the critical question in terms of what view the camera sees, and
2) The angle of you calculation is purely derived from the focal length of the lens and the size of the image sensor.

Again, a 150 mm lens is a 150 mm lens - certainly there are 150 mm lens designs with various diameter image circles, but so long as the image circle covers the film or sensor and vignette get is not a problem they will all produce the same image on the sensor.
Alas, this is an incorrect statement. "Crop f... (show quote)


couldn't get an exact match but here is a 250 mamiya and a 200 nikor on my D800.
i think image size difference is considerably more than the silly 50 mm would account for.
excuse the blur i had lens in 1 hand and camera in other.

250 mamiya
250 mamiya...
(Download)

200 nokon
200 nokon...
(Download)

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Oct 25, 2014 12:47:19   #
rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona
 
khalidikram wrote:
Has anyone tried using a Hasselblad lens (I am thinking specifically of the 120/4 macro and the 250) on a Nikon D800 or D300s? What would be the enlargement factor (I apologize if this is not the correct term; I mean like using a FF lens on the D300s gives you a 1.5 factor)? Of course the lens would have to be used manually and one would require the appropriate adapter.


I regularly use my Zeiss lenses on my D700. The lens focal length is unaffected by adapting it to the camera. What changes is the amount of area of the projected image that is used. If you want to see and example of an image photographed with a Zeiss 50mm f/4 Distagon adapted to the D700, check this out.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/57944771@N00/6037175530/

One must keep in mind that once adapted, the camera becomes completely manual. The green focus light works, but that is about all that is automatic. Switch off the auto focus, set the shutter speed and f-stop manually, and focus manually.

If you want, let me know and I'll photograph something with the 150mm and 250mm Zeiss lens I have and post it here for you.
--Bob

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Oct 25, 2014 13:29:15   #
speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho
 
RWR wrote:
A 120mm lens is a 120mm lens, no matter the sensor size - there is no factor to consider.

There is a cropping factor, a smaller sensor will "crop" it's size out of an image of a lens made for a larger sensor.

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