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Portrait question.
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Oct 24, 2014 13:19:07   #
PhotoArtsLA Loc: Boynton Beach
 
Just too step up the conversation to the heights of photography, this all has to do with an acceptable circle of confusion, of course.

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Oct 24, 2014 14:21:39   #
Armadillo Loc: Ventura, CA
 
dsmeltz wrote:
But, when the shutter opens, there is only ONE focus point. This is not a light field camera.


Just before the shutter opens a focus setting adjustment is locked, it may be from a single focus point seen in the viewfinder, or it may be an average from several points in the viewfinder. This happens at almost the speed of light, while the shutter button is depressed.

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Oct 24, 2014 14:23:48   #
jack schade Loc: La Pine Oregon
 
Take several bracketed shots. Don't rely on just one aperture setting.
Jack

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Oct 24, 2014 14:41:01   #
frankie c Loc: Lake Havasu CIty, AZ
 
TracyT4i wrote:
This is the situation: I'm taking a picture of three people sitting in a field of leaves. I want a shallow DOF, but the same time all three people in focus. Can I use a f2.8 aperture and still get all three people in focus? Would using several of my focusing squares help?


If all 3 people are at the same distance from the lens. They will be in focus. However, any variation in distance especially if all 3 are at different distances and you shoot with the lens wide open, somebody will be out of focus. Bracket your exposures (very the aperture). If all people are in close on your shot you prolly gonna fill the frame with them (not much room for shallow depth of field). You should still see some of the shallow depth at f5.6 and still keep em in focus. Also, focal length of the lens will make a difference. A prime lens would give you an advantage. Can't wait to get hollered at for this one..... happy shooting.

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Oct 24, 2014 14:55:59   #
Tracy B. Loc: Indiana
 
frankie c wrote:
If all 3 people are at the same distance from the lens. They will be in focus. However, any variation in distance especially if all 3 are at different distances and you shoot with the lens wide open, somebody will be out of focus. Bracket your exposures (very the aperture). If all people are in close on your shot you prolly gonna fill the frame with them (not much room for shallow depth of field). You should still see some of the shallow depth at f5.6 and still keep em in focus. Also, focal length of the lens will make a difference. A prime lens would give you an advantage. Can't wait to get hollered at for this one..... happy shooting.
If all 3 people are at the same distance from the ... (show quote)


Thanks, very helpful. I will have to try bracketing.

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Oct 26, 2014 03:39:32   #
rbfanman
 
Seating the people side by side, at the same distance from the lens, will work best. If they are one behind the other, at different distances from the lens, it will be trickier. If you are going to use a big aperture (small number like 2.8), use a wide angle, to moderate lens. A Prime lens would be better than a zoom. Try a 28MM, or 40mm, or 55mm, lens. If you use a telephoto lens, you will have a shallower depth of field / focus, and those in back will be blurrier. If you have the subjects at different distances...one behind the other, focus on the one at the middle distance.

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Oct 26, 2014 04:45:43   #
Tracy B. Loc: Indiana
 
rbfanman wrote:
Seating the people side by side, at the same distance from the lens, will work best. If they are one behind the other, at different distances from the lens, it will be trickier. If you are going to use a big aperture (small number like 2.8), use a wide angle, to moderate lens. A Prime lens would be better than a zoom. Try a 28MM, or 40mm, or 55mm, lens. If you use a telephoto lens, you will have a shallower depth of field / focus, and those in back will be blurrier. If you have the subjects at different distances...one behind the other, focus on the one at the middle distance.
Seating the people side by side, at the same dista... (show quote)


Thanks.

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Oct 27, 2014 08:08:52   #
dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia
 
Armadillo wrote:
Just before the shutter opens a focus setting adjustment is locked, it may be from a single focus point seen in the viewfinder, or it may be an average from several points in the viewfinder. This happens at almost the speed of light, while the shutter button is depressed.


BUT, the only thing that counts is where it is focused when the picture is taken. There are lots of ways to get to a focal distance, and they are valuable. But there is a difference between using multiple points to choose a focal distance and focusing on different points simultaneously. I think the discussion has given the impression (intentionally or not) that the camera can focus on more than one point in a given shot. I am just trying to clarify that point.

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Oct 27, 2014 12:36:19   #
Armadillo Loc: Ventura, CA
 
dsmeltz wrote:
BUT, the only thing that counts is where it is focused when the picture is taken. There are lots of ways to get to a focal distance, and they are valuable. But there is a difference between using multiple points to choose a focal distance and focusing on different points simultaneously. I think the discussion has given the impression (intentionally or not) that the camera can focus on more than one point in a given shot. I am just trying to clarify that point.


dsmeltz,

I agree with your points with one addition. It is camera specific on how the auto focusing is performed when there are multiple focus points available. Only the operator, the camera, and the camera manual will know for sure.

If the user manual will not elaborate on how multiple focus points are chosen and applied in Auto Focus Mode, the user may have to resort to test and evaluation procedures.

One way to eliminate any guessing is to set the camera to Auto Focus, use Center Spot focus, and when setting up the scene for capture place the center spot over the subject that is desired to be in sharp focus, depress the shutter release half way down to lock focus, then recompose the scene and press the shutter all the way down for image capture.

Michael G

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