lloydl2 Loc: Gilbert, AZ

Love this new camera except I'm not sure the flash works properly in manual mode.

When I set the exposure to say 1/60 f4 iso 100 - with the goal of the flash lighting the subject my photos come out severely underexposed (dark). If I shoot on intelligent auto it exposes perfectly. when I look at the auto settings (the ones chosen by the camera, they are close to what you would set the exposure at if you weren't using the flash. Is there no way to utilize the flash to light the subject and use the shutterspeed and f stop for depth of field and freeze motion? I supposed I could kick up the flash compensation adjustment but this would be pretty hit and miss. Thanks.

Lloyd

RJNaylor Loc: Delmar, New York

If you look at the settings for the automatic version you will see what ss, f-stop, and ISO it is using. For the photo you are lighting, you will need some variation of the automatic settings.

lloydl2 Loc: Gilbert, AZ

thanks Rich. I did shoot the same scene using intelligent auto and found the settings picked were a very slow shutter speed a more open aperture and slightly higher iso. The F stop and shutterspeed I chose in manual mode f 3.5 and 1/60 and iso 100 theoretically should have allowed the flash to light the subject leaving the background underexposed.. it left all but the brightest highlights very dark. I want to be able to use the flash to light the subject however fill flash is the only option in any of the pasm modes... I don't like using flash at all but sometimes you just need it!

Beercat Loc: Central Coast of California

The answer is in your response.

The camera in auto told you that it need more light than what you set manually.

Your only options other than auto are:

1. Increased the FEC
2. Get closer to the subject
3. Set your exposure closer to the auto setting with a bit of difference to give you what your hoping for, remember it's a trade of, you want more DOF, raise the ISO in this case as the shutter will already be very slow. An ISO of 100 maybe unrealistic in your situation. Raise the ISO to 400, this is 2 stops of added light which you then can use to give yourself a bit more DOF.

The RX100 is similar to the RX10, the flash can be harsh .......

The RX100 is good in the ISO 400-500 range but I wouldn't go higher unless your good at PP and have the time.

emmons267 Loc: Arizona, Valley of the Sun

I just set my M3 to the same settings that you are using and the image was well lit. I checked Intelligent mode and they had dropped the f stop to 1.8, rather then f4. I tried it again with the f stop on 1.8 and, as expected, the image was even more brightly lit. Both images look good.

Armadillo Loc: Ventura, CA

Lloyd,

My suggestions may be useless as I do not have your Sony model. However, there are some common techniques that are available on many DSLR cameras. I will address those and let you research your camera manual to find the precise information.

The on board flash on most cameras is a poor device for illumination, it is there so the manufacturer can say it has flash. This is why Studio Strobes and external Flash Heads are connected to the camera Hot Shoe.

For the camera and the external flash unit you need to find out if they are ETTL (Electronic Through The Lens) exposure metering. This simply means when the flash is turned on the camera will meter the exposure through the attached lens and control the flash exposure in conjunction with the metered light.

The next two important elements concern the camera to flash communication; will the camera independently, control the exposure with Ec (Exposure Compensation), and Fc (Flash Compensation). This means the camera can set Ec for the background exposure and lock it for exposures, and control the flash output for the fill flash effect on the principle subject.

If your camera has Full Auto, and Program Modes select the "P" Mode. When this is included you set the background exposure with Back Button Exposure, the Ec to -2, and the Fc to 0. When you press the shutter the shutter controls the background exposure, the aperture controls the flash. When you set the exposure with Back Button Exposure Lock it will remain locked until you press the button again, or power off the camera.

It takes practice and minor adjustment with each occasion you try this method. Most DSLR cameras will perform best with the camera set to: ISO = 200, Mode = Program. Back Button Exposure Lock = bright background, camera distance to subject = within range of the flash unit.

If your camera flash sync speed is around 1/200sec this will freeze most subject motion.

Michael G

NeilL Loc: British-born Canadian

Try changing to Shutter- or Aperture-priority and let the camera adjust the other settings automatically.

lloydl2 Loc: Gilbert, AZ

thanks everyone for all the suggestions. I've continued to experiment and research - I've pretty much come to the conclusion that I've got to set the exposure very close to a non flash exposure... at least for indoor pics.. haven't tried in a really dark dark situation yet. This camera has a pop up flash and pop up view finder but no hotshoe. I believe it uses ttl. Another peculiarity is that in other then intelligent auto ie any of the PASM you are relegated to fill flash.. the auto flash will not work. It does have the ability to vary flash ec. I was hoping someone familiar with this camera might have a suggestion.. I try not to use flash.. even on my full frame a99 as I don't like how it lights...but sometimes you just need to...thanks again...

lloyd

NeilL Loc: British-born Canadian

Good luck and enjoy. Let us know what works best for you.

Armadillo Loc: Ventura, CA

lloyd,

If you don't like what your pop-up flash does to an image, figure out what it is you don't like. Once you have this in mind you can apply home made flash attachments to the flash head. Example: If the light is too harsh and brilliant try taping one, or two layers of white Kleenex to the flash lens. If the flash beam is too narrow for wide angle shots, try locating some matte type plastic sheets to tape over the flash to diffuse the light. Keep in mind, anything to place in front of the flash lens will have a negative effect on the light output (you may have to over compensate for the reduced light).

Michael G

lloydl2 Loc: Gilbert, AZ

ok reporting the results of some experimentation

changed the focus and exposure to center from wide this makes a huge difference in properly illuminating the subject. Also found that shooting flash with telephoto produces better results than the wider angle on the zoom..

i highly recommend this camera for anyone looking for a full feature point and shoot SIZE camera. It has taken me a bit to figure out the right settings for the way I shoot and I'm finding the camera menus and buttons are highly flexible .. now that I better understand how to maximize the flash (when I actually need it)... I'm really pleased with the picture quality and flexibility

thanks all for you help and suggestions...

emmons267 Loc: Arizona, Valley of the Sun

I had the M2 for about 1 year and I just got my M3. I'm 90% of the way through the features, menus, functions, etc. I really am enjoying this camera and the pictures I taken so far look great.
It's nice to know that there are more and more nonDSLR hogs on the forum whom we can exchange tips, tricks and suggestions with.
Happy trails

singleviking Loc: Lake Sebu Eco Park, Philippines

I think that your proposed manual settings of 1/60 shutter speed and ISO of 100 are a bit off for fill flash shots on this camera. I also leave my circular polarizing filter on the camera pretty much all the time. I also want to try using some form of flash diffuser device to warm up the subject and reduce light to the background. This also might lessen the harshness produced on close subjects by this flash.

If you find a good book on the RX-100M3, let me know. There are already some out there for the M1 and M2, but I haven't found any yet on the M3 version since it so recently released and they've now improved the DSP and changed the lens.

Also, for video applications, I haven't tried it yet but want to attach an auxiliary battery pack through the USB charging port to extend shooting times. Wrote this suggestion into SONY but haven't gotten a reply. I have a 12,000 mAh USB AUX battery pack that should significantly extend the usage time with the LCD or EVF on during video or extended shoots.

I was a bit concerned when I read some of the threads for the M1 on the SONY BLOG about battery life and the camera automatically turning itself on and running the battery down, but I haven't as yet experienced any of those problems.

lloydl2 Loc: Gilbert, AZ

Gary Friedman friedmanarchives.com. writes ebooks for all the Sony cameras that are very comprehensive. His m3 book is due out in about 5 weeks. I bought the m2 book and will upgrade for free when the m3 comes out.

lloydl2 Loc: Gilbert, AZ

You can bounce the flash on the m3 it is on a pop up hinge and with a small piece of tape you can aim it up with the tape holding it in the position.