big-guy
Loc: Peterborough Ontario Canada
Every year these guys set up shop on our deck and every year I blast them to smithereens. This year I just let them be as the summer (hah) has been crappy and we aren't on the deck all that much. So Saturday the wife says it's time to clean the basement... thoroughly. <sigh>
After 7 hours of cleaning, stripping, recycling and a trip to the dump I took a break and slapped the extension tubes on the 70-200 lens. Tried out the DSLR Controller app and tried the focus stacking portion. Quickly, OK after many changes in settings and attempts, found out that focusing with the ET on is virtually useless. I can cover the entire focus range with no change in the shot. The zoom on the other hand does some WOW stuff but the app doesn't handle that.
Here is 3 shots that I am fairly happy with all things considered. SS was slow so most showed more movement than these 3 shots. They didn't seem to mind the lens being 3 or 4 inches from them but I was pretty careful when reaching forward for the focus ring or the rail adjusters. :mrgreen:
Just so you are aware: you cannot focus-stack with lens set to Auto-Focus. You must be in Manual focus, and NOT re-focus between photographs. You move your camera about 1/2-mm between photographs. Also, your subject must be stationary.
Exif info of image #3:
Camera Model: Canon EOS 50D
Lens: EF70-200mm f/4L USM
Image Date: 2014-08-30
Focal Length: 70mm
Focus Distance: 1.21m
Aperture: f/8.0
Exposure Time: 4.000-sec (really?)
ISO equiv: 100
Exposure Bias: none
Metering Mode: Spot
Exposure: Manual
Exposure Mode: Manual
White Balance: Auto
Flash Fired: No
Better on your deck then mine. Nice....Rich
When that happens to me, I take the picture, then evict them! :mrgreen: good shots!
Merlin1300
Loc: New England, But Now & Forever SoTX
Hopefully he was just taking high quality shots for their obituary !!
big-guy
Loc: Peterborough Ontario Canada
I believe there are two methods you can utilize to focus stack. One being the focus change method and the other being to change the camera distance such as on a rail. I have used the focus method and had it work quite well but not with the ET attached. I would concur with you that the rail method is the way to go with ET's attached. Although I just have a cheap manual one so precision is not the best.
I also said I was trying out the focus stack option from DSLR Controller app and that is where I discovered it don't work so hot with the ET.
After watching them for about an hour I realized that movement seemed to come in flurries with long quiet times between so I tried for a better DOF with F8 at 100 ISO which left me with a 4 sec exposure. Took close to 100 photos and a good chunk worked.
Nikonian72 wrote:
Just so you are aware: you cannot focus-stack with lens set to Auto-Focus. You must be in Manual focus, and NOT re-focus between photographs. You move your camera about 1/2-mm between photographs. Also, your subject must be stationary.
big-guy wrote:
I believe there are two methods you can utilize to focus stack. One being the focus change method and the other being to change the camera distance such as on a rail.
Correct, you can focus stack
manually changing focus. This works up to about 1:1 magnification. Beyond 1:1 mag, things start getting messy, and more often than not, differences in the framing can't be resolved by stacking software.
big-guy wrote:
I have used the focus method and had it work quite well but not with the ET attached. I would concur with you that the rail method is the way to go with ET's attached. Although I just have a cheap manual one so precision is not the best.
I also said I was trying out the focus stack option from DSLR Controller app and that is where I discovered it don't work so hot with the ET.
With extension tubes you are approaching or exceeding the 1:1 threshold and that's where changing focus as opposed to moving the camera starts to fall apart.
Nice shots.
If you want to reply, then
register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.