FredD
Loc: Eastern Shore/Chesapeake Bay area
The spider moved a lot and the web was swaying in the wind . I used a 18-55mm lens with 36 mm extension tubes at a working distance of ca. 2". The tripod had to be moved around often to follow the spider .The web which was spun between a fern causing movement. How could I get a sharper shot?
FredD wrote:
The spider moved a lot and the web was swaying in the wind . I used a 18-55mm lens with 36 mm extension tubes at a working distance of ca. 2". The tripod had to be moved around often to follow the spider .The web which was spun between a fern causing movement. How could I get a sharper shot?
Nice color. Maybe try following him with a flash ring attached and shooting hand held-- or something like Nikonian has? I assumed you took a lot of shots-- I would have!
Nikonian uses a fresnel attachment over his flash. I haven't used one-- I have the Macro flash kit-- but haven't tracked spiders with it-- yet!
FredD wrote:
How could I get a sharper shot?
Increasing your DOF will allow more spider to be in focus. Decreasing your shutter duration will help "freeze" action, negating insect & wind movement. Increasing ISO will assist in both, but the trade-off is noise.
Your best method of increasing DOF, freezing action, and keeping low ISO is to provide your own portable lighting, such as key-&-fill Speedlight pair, ringlight, etc.
I use an O-Flash attachment to my standard Nikon SB-600 Speedlight. It will fit most standard speedlights. Read more here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/nikonian72/sets/72157623703013085
O-Flash 3/4-circle Fresnel prism attachment
Field macro set-up shhoting spiders
Orb weaver spider being photographed above
Nikonian72 wrote:
FredD wrote:
How could I get a sharper shot?
Increasing your DOF will allow more spider to be in focus. Decreasing your shutter duration will help "freeze" action, negating insect & wind movement. Increasing ISO will assist in both, but the trade-off is noise.
Your best method of increasing DOF, freezing action, and keeping low ISO is to provide your own portable lighting, such as key-&-fill Speedlight pair, ringlight, etc.
I use an O-Flash attachment to my standard Nikon SB-600 Speedlight. It will fit most standard speedlights. Read more here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/nikonian72/sets/72157623703013085 quote=FredD How could I get a sharper shot? /quot... (
show quote)
Very nice sequence showing the O-Flash, using the O-Flash, and then the shot of the spider. I have the R-200 kit, but I like the stability of your set-up
Using a long macro lens such as the Nikon 200mm f/4 or the Canon Ef 180mm f/3.5L would give you a greater working distance. Try a monopod if you can hold it still enough.
Jerry Green wrote:
Using a long macro lens such as the Nikon 200mm f/4 or the Canon Ef 180mm f/3.5L would give you a greater working distance. Try a monopod if you can hold it still enough.
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In order to provide best DOF, a longer lens requires more light at distance. There is a law of diminishing returns when using a ringlight for illumination at distance.
I have very few no problems capturing 1:1 with a 105-mm macro lens with O-Flash 3/4-circle Fresnel prism attachment on my standard speedlight.
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