rvenneman Loc: Yuma, AZ

I tried to take some long exposures of a dam to see how the water would look. However, I could not get the shutter speed below 1/30 because it was too bright. From my research, it appears I need ND filter but I a confused.

I see them in different strength and also single filters that have different degrees. I see Tiffen has a set of 3 but wondering about the quality.

Can someone share their experience with ND filters buying a set of three different strengths as compared to a variable? Is Tiffen a good set for 45.00 for three or do I look for better quality?

bsprague Loc: Lacey, WA, USA

A .3 filter will move your 1/30 to 1/15. A .6 will half again or about 1/8 of a second. A .9 will make it about 1/4.

In other words, each .3 filter cuts the light in half.

You can spend more money, but Tiffen is fine. I bought the set of 3 at 58mm for my favorite lens.

bsprague Loc: Lacey, WA, USA

Here is a chart I found somewhere.

Filter Chart

(Download)

Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA

FAQ: Neutral Density (ND) Filters for Time Exposures
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-26501-1.html

Many of your questions answered here.

f8lee Loc: New Mexico

To answer your question about individual NDs compared to a variable I can offer these thoughts:

The variable is certainly more convenient, particularly if the light requires that you need to reduce the light by more than 3 or 4 stops. This is because you can mount it on your lens and frame the shot at it's most transparent setting, then twist the front CPL (these are essentially two polarizing filters mounted together allowing you to twist one against the other to vary the amount of light that can pass through) to darken as needed to achieve the desired shutter speed.

You don't mention your camera; for DSLRs what I said above holds true; however, for cameras with EVF (electronic viewfinders) that compensate for lighting effects using a dark ND filter does not affect framing and composing. When I use my DSLR, my 8-stop ND filter requires that I first frame the shot and then screw on the filter, so the vari-ND is much easier and quicker to use. however, with the Fuji X-T1 what I see in the viewfinder is, amazingly enough, a "normal exposure" despite the 8 stop filter being on the lens. The first time I used that filter was kind of freaky - I was pleasantly surprised that the viewfinder still looked as it did without the filter on at all.

Another consideration relates to wide angle lenses; the variable types (since they have two stacked filter rings) may cause vignetting, so you want to be careful about that.

Finally, one possible downside of the variable ND could be what I've learned is called "Maltese cross" - the same variable NF filters I've used with my DSLRs without issue (both FX and DX) had problems on the X-T1. Specifically, the filter created an "X" shape of darkened area as I was twisting the rings - I contacted SingRay and they said they've seen that happen on some digital cameras. They didn't know the reason offhand, but my guess is that it has to do with destructive interference and the specifics of the polarizing foils and dimensions and spacing of the particular image chips photo sites. Anyway, I'd never seen it before on other digital cameras but on the X-T1 it is a problem.

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

For myself, I'd buy a GOOD quality multicoated filter. I generally choose B+W.

They are rated in "stops of light" and as the other commenter pointed out; here is the breakdown:

2x = ND.3 (exposure adjustment = 1 stop, reduces ISO 1/2)
4x = ND.6 (exposure adjustment = 2 stops, reduces ISO 1/4)
8x = ND.9 (exposure adjustment = 3 stops, reduces ISO 1/8)


You need to know where you "are" and "where you want to get to" in shutter speed to know what strength you need.

LFingar Loc: Claverack, NY

I've never done it, but I believe you can stack ND filters to get additional darkening, if needed. At shorter focal lengths this could cause vignetting though. Depends on your lens.

lighthouse Loc: No Fixed Abode

Just my opinion but here it goes.
$45 is junk.

Might as well go straight to the best option rather than fishing around through various options over a number of years and ending up at the same place.
That way you avoid having a pile full of junk that you don't use but have paid good money for.

The best option is - buy a Lee Foundation filter kit with a 3 filter soft grad ND kit and a Lee BigStopper.
Cost $500-600.

These soft grads are 6"x4" so therefore they can be used as full grads and also as partial grads.
You can darken the bright blownout sky while still leaving the clear part of the filter over the ground.
You can slide them up and down so that your horizon can be anywhere in the frame.
Want full coverage? Just pull it down a little further so that the neutral density section fully covers the lens.
With a 1,2 & 3 stop grad you can stack them so that you have your variable grad, you can have 1,2,3,4,5 or 6 stops.
Want 10 stops - use the Big Stopper.

In Peter Hills brilliant article on grads and ND grads, he calls the very expensive Singh-Ray variable grad the most expensive piece of photographic junk he has ever paid for. Or words to that effect.
http://www.redbubble.com/people/peterh111/journal/4421304-the-ultimate-easy-guide-to-neutral-density-filters

f8lee Loc: New Mexico

Nicely written article, but I get the sense his beef with the Singh-Ray has to do with what i mentioned - the banding issue. Using the filter on Nikon D200, D700 and D600 (as well as film cameras) was never an issue - no banding for me, and the lack of lens hood did not prove problematic when I shade the lens manually from aside (outside the field of view). But the X-T1 has the problem, so like I say it may have to do with the specific CCD/CMOS chip involved.

I have no affiliation with Singh-Ray, but just want to point out the other side of the story.

lighthouse Loc: No Fixed Abode

His problem was the "Maltese Cross".
He bought an item that was advertised as 2-8 stops and it was unusable above 6 stops.
Peter likes long exposures, and he had paid $500 for an item that didn't meet its advertising.

shutterbob Loc: Tucson

Tiffen makes some decent filters. I have some but I have found B+W to be generally better quality. A couple of problems you should look out for....on a wide or ultra wide you can get some vignetting, which you may be able to overcome by using a single, darker filter as opposed to stacking. The second potential problem is that your camera may not want to auto focus because there is just not enough light for it to do so, so you may need to manual focus, which you should be doing anyway on a well composed photo where you need a ND filter.

f8lee Loc: New Mexico

I realize that - I mentioned the Maltese cross in my first post. But my point was (and is) that this does not occur with every camera, just certain models. So the lesson is, YMMV, depending on what you shoot. FWIW, I also have the Tiffen variable ND and it shows the 'cross' far more than the Singh Ray does on the X-T1, so it's not as if Singh-Ray alone has the issue.

steve40 Loc: Asheville/Canton, NC, USA

In bright light a ND filter of 6 stops, is not too much. At these slow speeds, you may also find that you need a tripod.

I have filters of 6, 4, and 2 stops. At times, any one of them may be needed. You can but variable ND filters, but are they expensive - Yep. Oh yes I also have Two tripods. :)

steveg48

If you have a fixed ND filter you will know how many stops it is and can predict what your exposure should be based on your meter reading without the ND filter. I purchased a cheap variable nd filter which wasn't marked/calibrated so i didn't know how many stops I was setting. This method requires a lot of trial and error. I ended up buying a 10 stop B + W ND filter and got results I was happy with. A 10 stop filter requires a shutter speed roughly 1000 times longer than the speed you would use without the filter.

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

here are a lot of links about ND filters. I hope they're all still active. Be sure to check out the last one. It's like magic.

ND Filter Info
http://blog.robertstrachan.com/archives/844/lee-big-stopper-hitech-10-stop-nd-filter-review/

http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2012/07/05/how-and-when-to-use-nd-filters-and-what-the-numbers-mean/

http://www.redbubble.com/people/peterh111/journal/4421304-the-ultimate-guide-to-neutral-density-filters

http://www.phototechnique.com/kit/neutral-density-filters/

http://www.hongkiat.com/blog/realistic-finger-paint-by-zaria-forman/

Make traffic Disappear
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZpNtAXbaNr0