MotoXR

Maybe someone can help me out with this. I;m shooting hi speed fast action motorsports outdoors in direct sunlight usually from 9:00 a/m till 3:00p/m. I have been shooting at ISO400 using either a 18-140mm lens or the 70-300mm 5.4 lens. The pictures tend to need to be lightened from shadows during processing.(about 20-30%) By going to a higher ISO such as 640-800 would that tend to help without causing the pictures to get grainy? The camera goes to ISO 3200 but in the past it seams as if the photos start to get grainy above 1000 to 1200 ISO. Shutter speed is usually between 1/500-1/2000 of a sec apeture is auto. Any thoughts??

Stef C Loc: Conshohocken (near philly) PA

I would try it out. 800 might be a little grainy on the 5000, but grainy is better than blurry. The shot you took looks good. I do prefer to ETTR (expose to the right) and overexpose a bit, but your picture looks great to me.

Apaflo Loc: Anchorage, Alaska

You are shooting in relatively "harsh" lighting, of scenes with relatively high dynamic range. There are two different scenarios that you'd want to be prepared for, first is just exactly what your image shows, where you have bright, direct sunlight; second is if there are clouds that come in, probably in the afternoon, that obscure much of the sky or even the sun.

When the light is one or the other and is not changing, your best bet is to use manual exposure. Shutter Priority is a good choice when clouds move around and the light changes. You might combine that with AutoISO too.

With a D5000 the dynamic range is very limited, even at the lowest ISO settings. You don't really want to go above ISO 800, and would be best off at less than 400. But even at ISO 100 or 200 you have to nail exposure such that the highlights are hitting just below clipping in order to get any detail at all in the shadows.

If you are shooting in JPEG mode, set the configuration for a little bit towards lower contrast (try it with half a dozen shots at each setting to see where you like the results best). If you are shooting RAW you can adjust contrast in post processing for best results.

To be very frank, the D5000 is pretty old technology and not well suited to that task in comparison to newer models. A D3100 is far worse, a D90 is about the same, a D3200 is better, and a D5100 or D7000 are even more better. The last three are better only at the lowest ISO, and from ISO 200 on up they are all the same. The D7100 is significantly better at every ISO. (I don't have figures for the D5200, but would assume it is also better across the board.)

Of course any of the Full Frame cameras is significantly better than the D7100 for dynamic range, but at the obvious difference in price too.

MT Shooter Loc: Montana

Try using your exposure compensation, +2/3 stop should do it. Reduce it to +1/3 stop if you find you are getting some blown out highlights. Shadows are a fact of life when shooting with strong sunlight.

amehta Loc: Boston

If you increase the ISO by a stop and let the camera adjust the aperture by a stop, you have the same exposure value and the same shadows. You will get more depth of field and more grain, but it will not change the overall brightness of the scene and the shadows will be the same.

Using exposure compensation as MT Shooter suggested will change the exposure value which will change the brightness of the image and the shadows.

Apaflo Loc: Anchorage, Alaska

With every increase in ISO above 200 that camera loses an equal amount of dynamic range. At ISO 400 it has just more than 8 stops. Given the harsh light and the high dynamic range of the scenes, going above ISO 400 will lose exactly what the OP said he is trying to gain.


At any ISO that provides less dynamic range than the scene has, adjusting EC will clip highlights or block shadows, take your pick. It will only help if the image is otherwise going to be over or under exposed.

On days when the lighting is not changing, the best would simply be manual exposure. It can be set using the histogram, and checked periodically to watch for changes. EC doesn't make any difference.

Whenever clouds are moving and the lighting is changing too quickly to keep track of with manual adjustments, Shutter Priority would be a good choice, and then EC is the preferred method to fine tune it, using the histogram as a guide.

twowindsbear

Shoot on a day with less harsh lighting, an overcast to cloudy day - when the light is diffused and the dynamic range is more appropriate.

Good luck.

architect Loc: Chattanooga

If 1/500 second works (or 1/750 or 1/1000), use Auto ISO and set your desired shutter speed as the minimum. The camera will then use the lowest ISO suitable for that shutter speed and the correct exposure. I prefer to use Aperture Priority to control depth of field.

MotoXR

Thank you everyone for your help and input. Sounds as if the 5000 has kinda reached its limits for my use. I will try using the +/- a 1/3rd stop exposure compensation I believe that will help out the most. I may have to relie on Photoshop until another camera is bought. Shooting duringthe changing lighting shadows cloud conditions is ever changing so it is really hard to find just 1 setting and leave it per race due to moving and shooting angles. The camera does take pretty good pictures just the shadows highlights and contrast is a bit off. I'am also comparing it to a friends Cannon D5 mark 3 which is no comparison.