EricLPT Loc: Jonesborough TN

Barb,

You have gotten some excellent advice here but let me add my two cents.

Since your maximum aperture is 2.8, leave it wide open during the shoot. No point in having a 2.8 lens if you stop it down when you need it the most.

Up the ISO to the point where you can handle the noise that higher ISO's bring, this varies with each person, I prefer no noise, but that isn't always possible. Plenty of software out there to clean up noise in post processing. No reason to take a photo that is so noisy you can't use it.

Move around the ring and position yourself as close to the obstacle you most want to capture (jumps, weave poles, dog walk etc, this may change with each competitor) and let the dog come to you. Try a few test shots to check for composition (what is in the background? Although at f2.8 it should be blurred out), exposure, focus, etc.

As the dog approaches, prefocus (half depress the shutter) on the obstacle and wait for the dog to move into that spot. Then finish pressing the shutter and presto! A well focused, well exposed action shot of the pooch exactly as you previsualized it.

A tripod or monopod (if allowed) will help keep the camera steady. If those aren't allowed try to brace against something if possible.

You might also investigate 'panning' to freeze the dog and motion blur the background to show movement.

Sitting at one place in the stands and trying to grab a shot on the fly without prepping first is the worst possible option for still photography. That is a good spot for some video though. Set your lens to moderate zoom so you are able to easily keep the dog in the frame and follow it through the routine, being careful to pan smoothly and watch what you say while filming, it will be captured on the audio portion. So no harsh critiques of dog/owner/trainer and watch for cuss words that sometimes escape when you get excited ;-).

Try and shoot a few practices so you can to hone your skills. They will probably be outside in better light but if you get your technique down all you will have to adjust is shutter speed and ISO when you move indoors.

Give it a try and report back,

Eric

marcomarks Loc: Ft. Myers, FL

1/2000th was too fast for even a fully open aperture to get enough light to the sensor. Try 1/1000th and that will likely be enough to freeze action but still get a good exposure.

You should be looking at your shots on the LCD screen instantly while on location anyway and not waiting until you're at home with PhotoShop. Take some at 1/1000th, lower it to 1/800th or whatever your camera has available, then the next step slower. You'll see where action blur starts to happen and then you just step back up to the next higher shutter speed.

johnnyg67 Loc: Northwest Georgia

Hi, we've all had shots that were less than perfect. It should always be a learning experience that will come in handy later on.

I've shot manual for years and of course with newer cameras I've used presets and auto settings as well, but seldom if ever have I needed a shutter speed that fast The faster the shutter speed the less time light has to get in to the camera. You can stop action at F250, F500 and up most of the time (of course if you're in super bright sunlight you may need a faster speed.)

If you set your lens at 2.8 that is wide open letting in the most light however you have to be careful because it will give you a shallow depth of field. That's great if you want to isolate the subject and blur everything else, but not so good if you want other things in focus. Bottom line practice in situations that are close to what you want to shoot to see what works best. Learn to read light even without a light meter by practice practice reading and more practice. Practice makes perfect! (well almost :-) Then when you walk into a situation you will already know pretty much what to set your camera at. That helps greatly when time is short.

Good luck.

PJT Loc: Sarasota,Florida

shadow 1284:
Your advice is dead on and correct! :thumbup: