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Shootings Panos
Jul 23, 2014 19:16:59 #
Here it is Greg
I made a few snapshots of my setup which I will send shortly
I made a few snapshots of my setup which I will send shortly
Jul 23, 2014 19:19:21 #
Jul 23, 2014 19:37:27 #
Ok, you have a bad case of GAS.
That said, your panorama suffers greatly from exposure...
That said, your panorama suffers greatly from exposure...
Check out Panorama section of our forum.
Jul 23, 2014 19:46:07 #
Jul 23, 2014 20:10:28 #
Clemens wrote:
Set up for shooting horizontal
where is the optical node located?
Jul 23, 2014 20:23:56 #
In response to Ron's comment on exposure, the Scott Kelby Digital Photography series suggests setting your White Balance to Cloudy to keep all of your shots exposed the same. Great picture, I'm sure you can fix it up in post if you want to.
Jul 23, 2014 20:35:31 #
Finding the nodal point or (no parallax point) is for every camera/lens set up different. Ones it is set up you are good to go unless you change to another lens or body.
Nodal is your center point of rotation this is especially important when you have subjects in the foreground because they will change when you start to pano and that is where your software get's in trouble.
You can see a blue sticker on my rail. This is the set up for my a7r and 24-70 CZ.
With this set up I shoot for stitched photo's, panoramas, spherical but also macro since I can slide the rail in increments.
I do leave the "blue" rail" on the camera 24/7. It is all fixed.
Hope this helps
Nodal is your center point of rotation this is especially important when you have subjects in the foreground because they will change when you start to pano and that is where your software get's in trouble.
You can see a blue sticker on my rail. This is the set up for my a7r and 24-70 CZ.
With this set up I shoot for stitched photo's, panoramas, spherical but also macro since I can slide the rail in increments.
I do leave the "blue" rail" on the camera 24/7. It is all fixed.
Hope this helps
Jul 23, 2014 21:07:08 #
oldtigger wrote:
where is the optical node located?
I think you were specifically referring to his horizontal setup in your response. The no parallax point is at the same location in the horizontal as in the vertical setup except in his horizontal setup he can't do multi-row because shifting the ball head will shift the no parallax point. You can, of course, do a two row in this setup if the lower row encompasses the land portion and the upper row is all sky or some very far subjects and sky. If the lower row encompasses all of the land when stitching the pano the seam can be placed so that none of the upper row that might include some land is shown in the final pano.
Personally, I'd rather shoot vertical as it gives you more fudge room if you need to fix the level (horizon) on the stitching since you'll have to crop all four sides to square everything once you've tilted the pano.
Jul 23, 2014 21:11:03 #
Clemens wrote:
Here it is Greg
I made a few snapshots of my setup which I will send shortly
I made a few snapshots of my setup which I will send shortly
This came out nice. What are you using to stitch and blend? As Ron noted, you've got the classic exposure difference from frame to frame that really shows up in blue skies. You weren't using a polarizer where you?
I don't know what focal length and aperture you used but I think you did a good job on the depth of field.
Obviously this wasn't in taken in Maryland ...
Jul 23, 2014 21:17:47 #
Disagree setting the WB at cloudy.
You do want to set everything on manual including focus and ISO.
Different shutter speeds will work in most cases so Aperture priority is good. You don't want to change the aperture during the shoot so shutter priority is a bad idea. Software will have a hard time stitching if one area is in focus and the next one is not.
To save a lot of trial and error you want the camera do nothing except for making the shot (in manual setting with manual focus in RAW with a fixed ISO)
Of course you can go in the opposite direction and let the camera do the work but you will need to decide if that will work depending on the scenery you are shooting.
I have shot many panos in jpeg with good results.
You do want to set everything on manual including focus and ISO.
Different shutter speeds will work in most cases so Aperture priority is good. You don't want to change the aperture during the shoot so shutter priority is a bad idea. Software will have a hard time stitching if one area is in focus and the next one is not.
To save a lot of trial and error you want the camera do nothing except for making the shot (in manual setting with manual focus in RAW with a fixed ISO)
Of course you can go in the opposite direction and let the camera do the work but you will need to decide if that will work depending on the scenery you are shooting.
I have shot many panos in jpeg with good results.
Jul 23, 2014 21:37:30 #
Clemens wrote:
Disagree setting the WB at cloudy.
You do want to set everything on manual including focus and ISO.
Different shutter speeds will work in most cases so Aperture priority is good.
You do want to set everything on manual including focus and ISO.
Different shutter speeds will work in most cases so Aperture priority is good.
Yeah, I'm not sure what cloudy does for Kelby so I'm waiting to see what that's about.
Aperture priority is not the best in my opinion - full manual only or you risk exposure differences that you might have to blend away, if you can, or time for hdr. I checked out some of your other images. Nice stuff.
When you are repying, are you hitting quote reply or just reply? Seems like you might be responding to specific posts but you are not quoting them. Trying to figure out the thread becomes difficult sometimes without the quote replies.
Check out Advice from the Pros section of our forum.
Jul 23, 2014 21:39:59 #
I use PTgui to stitch my pictures.
Yes, I used a circular polarizer. I was aware it would give me some issues but it looked so good through the viewfinder and did it anyway. Will fix it later but I don't recommend using it for panos.
We do have "mountains" in Maryland but not like this.
Of course this is Mt. Rainier. I was up there 10 days with fellow deckbuilders teaching them how to use their camera as a sales tool. We had one nice clear day and shot this one. Other days where cloudy and couldn't even see Mt.Rainier. But foggy and rainy days are great days to shoot waterfalls etc.
Yes, I used a circular polarizer. I was aware it would give me some issues but it looked so good through the viewfinder and did it anyway. Will fix it later but I don't recommend using it for panos.
We do have "mountains" in Maryland but not like this.
Of course this is Mt. Rainier. I was up there 10 days with fellow deckbuilders teaching them how to use their camera as a sales tool. We had one nice clear day and shot this one. Other days where cloudy and couldn't even see Mt.Rainier. But foggy and rainy days are great days to shoot waterfalls etc.
Jul 23, 2014 21:41:30 #
I used reply. Was not aware of that. Will pay attention next time.
Clemens wrote:
I use PTgui to stitch my pictures. br Yes, I used ... (show quote)
Jul 23, 2014 21:42:37 #
I also got involved shooting panos, got a bracket and level and tripod to find the nodal point, etc. To my surprise Photoshop blended these 3 vertical handheld shots as well or better than panos I have taken according to the nodal point principles.
Here's the shot specifics:
3 vertical shot pano. Nikon D3100, Vivitar 19mm f3.8 manual lens. Shot at f11, 1/100 sec., iso 100. Used photoshop to merge the 3 pics and correct the curved perspective.
There is curvature visible at the roof line on the left. However, if there were just trees and sky, I don't think it would be noticeable.
Here's the shot specifics:
3 vertical shot pano. Nikon D3100, Vivitar 19mm f3.8 manual lens. Shot at f11, 1/100 sec., iso 100. Used photoshop to merge the 3 pics and correct the curved perspective.
There is curvature visible at the roof line on the left. However, if there were just trees and sky, I don't think it would be noticeable.
Jul 23, 2014 21:48:01 #
It appears the OP realizes he has some serious banding going on in the image. That isn't my point though. There is a little trick to check for banding, even very subtle banding. Take your mouse and "jiggle" the image back and forth sideways on your screen. On an iPad just enlarge it a little then use your finger to quickly wiggle it back and forth side to side. Any banding will become obvious quickly.
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