If you use 35mm manual Nikon lenses with a DSLR do you have to use an external light meter to be able to set the speed and aperature opening correctly, and if you add a teleconverter how do you adjust to get proper setting ? I have both a 2x and 3x manual teleconverter for 35mm.
Silver Fox wrote:
If you use 35mm manual Nikon lenses with a DSLR do you have to use an external light meter to be able to set the speed and aperature opening correctly, and if you add a teleconverter how do you adjust to get proper setting ? I have both a 2x and 3x manual teleconverter for 35mm.
Which model camera do you have?
Or are you planning on that purchase based on a compatibility issue?
Silver Fox wrote:
If you use 35mm manual Nikon lenses with a DSLR do you have to use an external light meter to be able to set the speed and aperature opening correctly, and if you add a teleconverter how do you adjust to get proper setting ? I have both a 2x and 3x manual teleconverter for 35mm.
Pre AI's will not meter on any DSLR
D1, D2, D3 etc will meter with AI converted lenses and AIS lenses.
D700, D300s, D300, D200, D7000 will also meter with AI converted lenses and AIS lenses
I'm using a Nikon D90 and the lenses are mid 70,s Nikon 35mm
Silver Fox wrote:
I'm using a Nikon D90 and the lenses are mid 70,s Nikon 35mm
You could buy a light meter but you could use trial and error.
So you've got pre AI and maybe AI lenses.
You can still use them, you meter by trial and error. Look to see what you did and then change either the aperture or shutter to change your exposure.
Silver Fox wrote:
If you use 35mm manual Nikon lenses with a DSLR do you have to use an external light meter to be able to set the speed and aperature opening correctly, and if you add a teleconverter how do you adjust to get proper setting ? I have both a 2x and 3x manual teleconverter for 35mm.
Your 2x teleconverter adds 2 f stops to any setting, e.g. f/2.8 is f/5.6.
You can use Manual exposure and a light meter for the old lenses. Once you learn to use a light meter, you will be reticent to go back to autoexposure. A good meter beats any camera meter, most of the time.
For example, you won't be setting an exposure compensation when you have a meter, you will just meter and use the right exposure to begin with. There is no exposure compensation when you have a handheld meter UNLESS you are shooting with a View Camera with bellows extension factors.
No I already have the lenses from my 35mm picture taking days. I have take pictures with the D90 and the old pre A1 lenses but you just have to guess where to set the speed and aperature.. I have a Weston348 ( Ranger 9) light meter but the battery is dead and the don't have any where I live. I already have a Nikon 70-300 mm lens as well as the original 18-105 lens and about a month ago I purchased a Sigma 50-500mm APO DG OS lens so probably won't be using them much. Probably the 1.4 primary more that anything. I also have an 85-205 mm 2.8 lens and a 24 mm F2 lens plus a 2X teleconverter and a 3X teleconverter I just don't want to get rid of them as no one wants to give anything for them and due to cost of film and developing I don't take many 35mm pictures lately plus you can't get good film here and only 24 picture rolls.
Can you use an auto exposure lens of a similar f-stop to help get you a starting point?
Use the sunny 16 rule. Sunny day f16 shutter speed and ISO should match closely. 200 ISO 250 shutter. 100/125 etc. Cloudy? Knock it up to 5.6. Shutter speed the same. Use exposure equivalents to manipulate shutter speed and aperture. It's a good place to start... But start somewhere.
Start as Jaime suggested and make a test photo. Look it and the histogram,then adjust as needed. After some practice you should be able to starting getting it right on the first shot.
Jerry Green wrote:
Start as Jaime suggested and make a test photo. Look it and the histogram,then adjust as needed. After some practice you should be able to starting getting it right on the first shot.
This is what makes digital so good, trial and error, don't like it .... puff..
We didn't have this in the film days, trial and error always cost ya, plus you had to wait until you got the positives or prints back to see what you did.
SFOX- This was one of my main reasons for originally getting my D700. When time allows, I can use my old lenses, 1000, 500, etc. My wife gave me a F2A in the '70's and I would never get rid of it. I have more modern lenses, including my 600 MM, but I just rely on experience when using the older lenses. I don't even own a light meter any more. The Sunny 16 rule will take you a long way and the computer will pretty pick up the slack, if need be. :)
I appeciate everyones comments. I need all the help I can get.
Jaime wrote:
Use the sunny 16 rule. Sunny day f16 shutter speed and ISO should match closely. 200 ISO 250 shutter. 100/125 etc. Cloudy? Knock it up to 5.6. Shutter speed the same. Use exposure equivalents to manipulate shutter speed and aperture. It's a good place to start... But start somewhere.
Yep. Sunny 16 and check the histogram
I've got another question about Nikon manual lenses. When people say that the lenses aren't compatible, do you mean as far as auto-focus and exposure goes, or will older lenses also damage the newer camera mounts. If I bought a good used D40, D60 or a D3000 or D5000, would the mounting be damaged by the old Nikkor f1.4 lenses used on a Nikon F 35mm. I've got 2 of these lenses as well as a Nikkormat with a couple of Nikon F mount lenses and would purchase one of the above cameras, if they're compatible. I've also got a few AI lenses and a Nikon FM10. Your help would be much appreciated!
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