This was taken with a Hoya NDX400 neutral density
the sun had just come out from behind the clouds..what caused the purple on the right side of the photo? How can I avoid this in the future? Thanks..
Probably sun flare. Coloring seems odd throughout the image, especially the yellow at the edge of the fall.
That appears to be sun flare. Wondering if you had a hood on the end of the lens, I know sometimes with the ND you can't.
Defraction sometimes happens with the blacker ND filters if you are shooting at f22 or greater. If that was your exposure, try f16 next time.
joehel2 wrote:
Defraction sometimes happens with the blacker ND filters if you are shooting at f22 or greater. If that was your exposure, try f16 next time.
Would a polarizing filter take care of this?
Madman
Loc: Gulf Coast, Florida USA
Was this taken on film or with a DSLR? This resembles a light leak in a film camera.
Bill Houghton wrote:
That appears to be sun flare. Wondering if you had a hood on the end of the lens, I know sometimes with the ND you can't.
No lens hood, I will try that next time to see if it helps
thanks
joehel2 wrote:
Defraction sometimes happens with the blacker ND filters if you are shooting at f22 or greater. If that was your exposure, try f16 next time.
Thanks
I will keep that in mind, along with the lens hood idea :)
preachy wrote:
Probably sun flare. Coloring seems odd throughout the image, especially the yellow at the edge of the fall.
Thanks, I will try all these suggestions to see if I can avoid this in the future :)
Thats known as a hotspot. They happen when shooting into a bright light source.
Sometimes you cant see them when you are making daytime long exposures with black glass.
Its not Diffraction unless he shot f16-f64 and there would be much more blurring than there is in his image. Polaroizers will not fix diffraction because diffraction is based on science and physics.
To avoid this, dont shoot into the sun or bright sources of light. Sometimes that means waiting for more optimal shooting situations.
You could fix this with some work in LR5 by going black and white and using the radial tool to help combat the color shift.
You only really NEED about 6 seconds to get water motion you have there. Dont stop down that far.
f11 would have been enough, and ISO 200 since it was daylight, and 25seconds is complete overkill for this.
Hotspot still would have been there based on the way light fell.
Many lessons for this newbie today! I am new to this filter and just trying to figure things out with it
thanks for all the great info!
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