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Newbe to old camera
Jan 18, 2012 18:07:16   #
tomten10 Loc: SC
 
Old camera= Eastar TLR.
Flash = Sunpak auto 433AF thermistor
Light meter = Just now realized meter missing. Was missing tripod last week, must have lost them both at same time. Must lock auto.
Anyway...
How do I set up camera and flash for a photo.
After I focus I am lost. I have used mostly auto everything for a long time.
I had a light meter but I do not think it will measure flash output. Do I need one to measure each (flash output and ambient light)?

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Jan 18, 2012 18:23:20   #
MT Shooter Loc: Montana
 
You just need a flash meter for using the flash. Incident meter for without flash.

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Jan 18, 2012 18:27:48   #
tomten10 Loc: SC
 
MT Shooter wrote:
You just need a flash meter for using the flash. Incident meter for without flash.


Thank you. Nice set of cameras.

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Jan 18, 2012 18:30:12   #
MT Shooter Loc: Montana
 
tomten10 wrote:
MT Shooter wrote:
You just need a flash meter for using the flash. Incident meter for without flash.


Thank you. Nice set of cameras.


Thank you. I have a couple old TLRs that I haven't loaded for several years, but they can be fun to play with.

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Jan 20, 2012 13:08:04   #
PJT Loc: Sarasota,Florida
 
With Kodak going chapter 11 you had best stock upon thier medium format film either in 120 or 220. The only way I have seen this film here where I live is from Fuji. ( I still prefer Kodak )
I know larger camera stores still carry it, and I order mine from B&H out of New York City.
Tis a sad day for film users if Eastman Kodak out of Rochester Ny. closes it's doors for good.
OBTW isn't it funny that Kodak developed the digital camera but chose not to really develop it. I think that thier logic was not to kill off thier vested intrests in the medium of film with palnts here and abroad not to mention paper and chemicals for said processing.
It would be like cutting off your nose to spite your face.
Too bad! :(

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Jan 20, 2012 19:36:18   #
Dryart38 Loc: Carlsbad, NM
 
Tomten10! You may need to get a flashcord to attach the flash to the camera! This may be the toughest item to find!

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Jan 20, 2012 21:47:43   #
PJT Loc: Sarasota,Florida
 
tomten10 wrote:
MT Shooter wrote:
You just need a flash meter for using the flash. Incident meter for without flash.


Thank you. Nice set of cameras.


Many of todays meters combine cord/cordless flash capabilities as well as incident or reflected metering .
Incident is used to record the amount of ambient light that is falling on the subject,while reflected measures the amount of light that a subject(say the moon for example reflects).
If you are serious about flash, a flashmeter is a great investment. Please note I use my meter with the rounded dome ( for 3 deminsional objects )as I photograph people using flash in the cordless flash mode just to check my exposure. (F-stop & shutter speed )* note ISO has been preset as I am using film for my medium.
I have gotten to the point that I am certain of my flash and its output but as I shoot professionally,however I still check with my meter. I tend to shoot with a main and fill light(2 People) at weddings and events.
OBTW I'm old school using lumedyne 400 w/s booster packs and medium format Hasselblads.
Not honking my own horn here but just giving you some background info on myself.
Best of Luck!!! :thumbup:

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Jan 21, 2012 01:33:33   #
Guy Johnstone Loc: Ocean Shores WA
 
A meter would be nice, but every flash has a guide number. Guide number divided by distance light to subject = f stop.
The Eastar TLR will sinc at all speeds, so you can control ambient/flash ratio with shutter speed and flash to subject distance.

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Jan 21, 2012 17:25:44   #
PJT Loc: Sarasota,Florida
 
You are correct about your flash sync, That's the beauty of a leaf shutter.
A flash meter will give you results instantly about using diferent av's and shutter speed combos in case you want to drag your shutter to gather more ambience or use a faster shutter speed to freeze action and let in less ambience It is nothing you can't figure out on your own but it simply makes life a little easier. Simply stated it is another tool in your photographic kit bag. You may either choose to use or not,as the choice is yours!

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Jan 22, 2012 02:25:26   #
Guy Johnstone Loc: Ocean Shores WA
 
O' hell the SunPak meters it self anyway. On the back you'll see some auto settings. Just select one and set the F stop to that setting. If you are indoors the flash will probably be your primary light. Outdoors you can uses the sunny 16 rule. Goggle sunny 16

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Feb 5, 2012 17:14:14   #
tomten10 Loc: SC
 
Thank you all. I found my tripod but not my exposure meter. Maybe it will turn up. The money goes so fast that change of playthings just turtles along. I am shooting for a flash meter now.
My labors with a couple of cameras has moved a bit. Found a an almost new (no wear no scratches beautiful chrome, no shoe) Argus C3. Mounted a handle and the Sunpak on it with home made bracket. Did the same with the Esatar, found a cord/w camera mounted shoe. The RCA? fittings plug right into the C3.Found that info somewhere on the net. Got to find a way with the cord to the flash on C3.
Next step are for some trial shots and then developing.
I have been delayed by the work on the mod to the Polaroid to 4 x 5. Need to know what voltage for the Graflex synchronizing solenoid. It works too weakly with 6 volts but that may be because the battery is too small. Afraid to use 9 volts, might burn the solenoid. Anyone know voltage and battery size necessary? Have looked all over net.
Someone offered to help with my darkroom endeavors and shamefully I cannot find the email.
I resist asking any more for fear of retaliation. I like this place and do not want to wear out the warm welcome that was so generously offered. Thank you all. If anyone at all is interested in my camera modifications I will try very hard to get pics to you.

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Feb 7, 2012 12:56:39   #
Guy Johnstone Loc: Ocean Shores WA
 
I think the flash sync for that camera is 1/30 of a second. That's the shutter speed you want to use when using flash with that camera. You can go slower and illuminate the full frame, but you go faster only part of the frame will be illuminated by the flash.

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