Photocraig

Hi Hogs,
I'm a very long time film photographer with 20 years of Canon EOS behind me. I've been photographing since the 3rd grade, taken College Classes, shot infrared and pushed TriX way beyond and printed in my own B+W darkroom. I've done a lot of yellow box, red box and green box color work, too. I used Photoshop on my scanned images, so I'm not new to PP.

My EOS 50D (used from KEH) is arriving next week. To get me started, I thought I'd list some assumptions that I know need to be corrected or digitally refined, so have at them.

1. ISO is a measure of light sensitivity "just like film."
2. Noise is like grain, right?
3. Depth of Field works the same for digital as film.
4. Color Palette and Saturation is a factor of what?
5. I can reliably get image feedback from the camera screen instead of waiting for film processing.
6. Good composition is good composition, right?
7. What is your best tip for making the film to digital transition easier and faster.

I have high expectations for my images.

Thanks,
Craig

Blenheim Orange Loc: Michigan

Not an expert yet by any means, but I can speak from my experience moving from film to digital.

Numbers 1-3, yes.

Number 4, there are in-camera settings to be aware of.

Number 5, depends upon the camera and how good your eyes are.

Number 6, yes.

Number 7, I made the mistake of assuming that if I knew what I was doing with film, I would do fine with digital. Modern cameras have so many "presets" that can affect the image. That was not a worry with my old brick.

Welcome! This site is a wealth of information.

Mike

Photocraig

Thanks, Mike. I'm looking forward to a fun and rewarding learning experience. I'll post the first image I'm happy with, but won't hold my breath (except at shutter release time),

OddJobber Loc: Portland, OR

If you kept up with the newer (15 years ago) EOS models (EOS 30/33/Elan 7), you're already familiar with the multiple controls and presets available. My biggest battle, coming from a Nikon with just aperture and shutter speed adjustments was getting used to all the controls and deciphering the LCD menu screen.

#2 Noise is like grain. Yeah sorta, but... Grain is the finest level of detail on film. Pixels are the finest level of detail in digital. Pixels are regularly spaced, like tiny mosaic tiles. Grain is more like spray painting with a fine nozzle. Noise is pixels that went bad, so usually not good. Film grain can be good or bad depending on how much.

#5 Instant feedback from the camera screen. Again, yeah sorta, but.... Remember that the camera LCD screen will only show you a 1 megapixel JPEG image on a 3 inch screen, hardly enough to really see what you have.

I never did get much pleasure out of darkroom work. With digital the post processing and editing is as much fun as shooting and can really stretch you abilities.

One thing that has not changed, there's still Nikon shooters and the rest of you guys. :) Have fun!

amehta Loc: Boston

1. Yes
2. Mostly
3. Yes
4. These are a factor of post processing, either in-camera or on the computer
5. Mostly, though you should match up the camera screen image and the computer monitor image to make sure you understand how your camera's LCD shows the image, some have color casts
6. Absolutely
7. Shoot in raw+jpeg at first, until you get used to pp with raw files. This is not entirely the same as pp a scanned image, that is more like doing pp on the jpeg. Shoot a lot, analyze your pictures, and have fun!

Nikon_DonB Loc: Chicago

Welcome to The Hog!

DavidPine Loc: Fredericksburg, TX

Welcome to UHH. I recommend you shoot RAW so you can easily process like a darkroom.

minniev Loc: MIssissippi

Here's my try:
#1 - Sort of but not quite. Experiment with a dark scene with shooting an underexposed photo and the same scene well exposed with a higher ISO on your new camera, look at them both (large) on screen and you'll see. My current camera gives me better results underexposed. Others are different.
#2 - Noise is uglier than grain
#3 - Yes
#4 - It's a combination of film type and processing choices. You make these decisions in camera settings if you shoot jpeg and in software if you shoot RAW
#5 - Yes, varies some by camera. You're starting with an older camera (IMHO a good idea), so your screen won't be as snazzy as the ones on the newer cameras
#6 - always
#7 - Film shooting is inhibited by film and developing costs- with digital, shoot TONS of photos and delete 95% of them, with no cost at all - this is hard to accept at first. Also, consider shooting RAW or RAW+JPEG from the start. Your RAW file is your negative. We know we shouldn't toss out negatives. When you fail to keep your RAW file, that's what you're doing. Even if you don't do anything with them right away, you may later. I just redeveloped a photo I took the week I got my first DSLR 6 years ago, and got a much better image because the software (and my skills) have improved.

Photocraig

Thanks, I'm waiting for the FEDEX MAN!

Photocraig

And then there's us usta be NIKON shooters who saw the light.

SharpShooter Loc: NorCal

Craig, welcome to the Hog, and to the wonderful world that is digital!
I only have strong feelings about two of your questions, and a few add-ons.

6, yes, what you do with the camera will not change. If you were an award winning photog before, you still are. Only what the camera does is what changes. The exposure triangle remains the same old triangle.

7, My best tip, is make your manual your new best friend(no matter HOW jealous your wife gets)! Glue it to the back of your camera, AFTER you memorize it!!
Don't get hung up on manual. Learn every mode in your camera, what they do, and when to best use each, that's what the pros do. That will be no easy task, but your photography will take a leap forward when you learn to exploit the camera and tweek it to your styles.
Always shoot in RAW, you can always make a Jpeg, but you can't make a RAW from a Jpeg.
Shoot your 50d for a year. When you reach the limits of your camera, then you'll know exactly what you need next.
Again, welcome and enjoy the ride. ;-)
SS

Photocraig

Good tips, it sounds like calibrating only different. Every camera is different. And experimenting with shutter/aperture and ISO combinations in different light and settings would be a worthy project.

My experience is that 90% of photography is in the wrist, as in discarding 90% of the transparencies. Now it is just the delete button.

No more yellow and green boxes (the red ones can't get processed anymore)!

Photocraig

Thanks, SS. I agree with your thoughtful response. What are the current best after market manuals?

In the end, the proof is in the image. I'm looking forward to the control. And my year of self assignments. And the zen-like ascetic of controlling GAS. It ain't the 8357 equipment! You have to SEE better.

SharpShooter Loc: NorCal

Craig, your welcome.
Craig, I'm one of those guys that don't need to cut to know I'm alive, I just read the manual, that provides all the pain I need!! :lol:
I've only ever read the stocker, as everything I need is in there. I'm sure many here have an alternative product that is good.
If you don't have the manual, call Canon and they will print you one and send it, free of charge! ;-)
SS

Blenheim Orange Loc: Michigan

:thumbup:

Mike