Last night, like many of us, I was trying to get some shots of the eclipse. Used my tripod. Found I couldn't figure out how to focus with all the Auto focus settings and gave up trying. I used manual focus and of course, all the shots were out of focus. My old 35mm SLR camera was a cinch to manually focus (everything was manual) but I'm finding it difficult to do with the DSLR.
Would folks please recommend some online tutorials or books / articles that might help me out when trying to get the camera focused in what seems to be difficult settings?
Thanks in advance. Flames accepted if I should have searched on my own first.
You can try: "
www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/d3100/users-guide/index.htm" or if you want a totally comprehensive guide, go to Amazon Books and check: David Busch's Nikon D3100 Guide.
I am assuming your manual wasn't of value to you. I have Busch's book for the D7000 and it's excellent and I have heard numerous people that are happy with other's by him.
Indi
Loc: L. I., NY, Palm Beach Cty when it's cold.
Using manual focus was correct. You could have used Live View and zoomed in as far as you could (in L.V.) and then adjusted/fine tuned the manual focus.
That sounds like what I should have done, used live view and zoomed. I will have to try that out. I have read how to do it in the manual just haven't given it a try yet.
The manual was 260 or so pages of confusion : ) More practice and I hope it becomes clear. I will try getting the book for my tablet.
I got some really nice shots, well they would be if they were in focus.
Indi
Loc: L. I., NY, Palm Beach Cty when it's cold.
I just thought of a couple of other things to look out for:
1. Watch out for lens creep. This might happen if your lens is aimed up or down and the autofocus is not engaged.
2. In manual focus, many suggest NOT to focus all the way to infinity. Back off a tad. However, you'll be able to see what the actual focus is in Live View.
I was struggling also. I think I am going to look into the installation of the old split focus screen offered by
http://katzeyeoptics.com/But also pay them to put it in. Mind is 21 but hands and body are 72.
Sarge69
PS: Checked and will cost approx $170.00 - Well worth it for me. Checking on options like 'Plus and or Brightness options' with an email to them.
joer
Loc: Colorado/Illinois
sletter wrote:
That sounds like what I should have done, used live view and zoomed. I will have to try that out. I have read how to do it in the manual just haven't given it a try yet.
Spot metering on the moon works well too. If you are like me the camera sees better than I do.
That's something I do miss, the split viewfinder. It makes focusing much easier but I think there are drawbacks with longer lenses if I remember right (it's been 25 years since I had my 35mm). I'm going to try the live view trick first.
And here is one of the pix I took. Should have used the Sigma 150 - 500 but I wanted something fast to set up.
One of the Eclipse shots, a little out of focus.
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Indi
Loc: L. I., NY, Palm Beach Cty when it's cold.
sletter wrote:
That's something I do miss, the split viewfinder. It makes focusing much easier but I think there are drawbacks with longer lenses if I remember right (it's been 25 years since I had my 35mm). I'm going to try the live view trick first.
And here is one of the pix I took. Should have used the Sigma 150 - 500 but I wanted something fast to set up.
Wow! You were lucky to get a shot that good at a 5 second exposure. Good job!
Gene51
Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
sletter wrote:
That's something I do miss, the split viewfinder. It makes focusing much easier but I think there are drawbacks with longer lenses if I remember right (it's been 25 years since I had my 35mm). I'm going to try the live view trick first.
And here is one of the pix I took. Should have used the Sigma 150 - 500 but I wanted something fast to set up.
It's definitely out of focus and it might have some camera shake that contributed to the softness.
No camera shake, it was mounted on my Manfrotto 190 but the exposure was set to 5 seconds which does contribute. Thanks.
Gene51
Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
sletter wrote:
No camera shake, it was mounted on my Manfrotto 190 but the exposure was set to 5 seconds which does contribute. Thanks.
Sletter, I can get camera shake with a $700 Gitzo Series 3 carbon and a $400 Arca Swiss ballhead if I am not careful. Putting your camera lens on a tripod is no guarantee that it won't shake. Without clear detail its hard to see, but there is a second "edge" visible at the lower left side, that would indicate that the camera moved during the exposure. Regardless, I have posted a shot I took last week to show how it can look when everything comes together - atmosphere, camera, support, post processing, etc. It was the best one of 10 that I took. All I did was set it up, and (gently) squeezed the shutter. No mirror lockup, no remote shutter release. Manually focused with live view, tripod and head locked down tight.
Certainly possible I suppose. Although I would appreciate it if you could help me determine what the source was. As I said, it was tripod mounted and as I didn't say I used my remote (wireless) release. My guess, I didn't lock the mirror up?
And the tripod was leveled on a paved road.
Oh one more thing, the moon was moving from the lower left side (easterly direction) to the upper right side.
sletter wrote:
Last night, like many of us, I was trying to get some shots of the eclipse. Used my tripod. Found I couldn't figure out how to focus with all the Auto focus settings and gave up trying. I used manual focus and of course, all the shots were out of focus. My old 35mm SLR camera was a cinch to manually focus (everything was manual) but I'm finding it difficult to do with the DSLR.
Would folks please recommend some online tutorials or books / articles that might help me out when trying to get the camera focused in what seems to be difficult settings?
Thanks in advance. Flames accepted if I should have searched on my own first.
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