Mallardo Loc: NW Louisiana

Hi, everybody. I'm interested in experimenting with IR Photography. I understand that the optimum route to follow would probably be to have a camera converted for the purpose, however, in that I currently only have one body and can't afford a second one right now, I'm thinking of trying an IR Filter. I'm shooting a Canon 7D and the lens I'd probably use is a 10mm-22mm.

Just wondering if anyone has experience with any of the filters and could maybe share experience, advice, caveats. I'm kind of leaning toward a Singh Ray but just wanted to hear some real world experiences before biting the bullet. Thanks so much in advance.

Mallardo Loc: NW Louisiana

Hmm, tough question?? :)

GPappy Loc: Finally decided to plop down, Clover, S.C.

Biggest problem with using an IR filter is very slow shutter speeds. (15 or more seconds) If there is any movement with subject it will be blurry and out of focus. You will also need to focus prior to installing filter. (You can't see through the filter) Auto focus also does not work well at all through the filter. Other than that they work well. I started IR with filters and had a ball using them. Now I have a Nikon bridge and a dslr that have been converted.
Also search IR here on UHH for loads of information.
Filters are a cost effective way to try it out and experiment. Have fun!

David Kay Loc: Arlington Heights IL

First, just using an IR filter without having the camera converted to IR will not get you an infrared image.

speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho

I used to do some way back with film, now a days, if I want something to look like IR, I do that in Adobe Camera Raw. It takes about half a minute and looks like the real thing. ( I know, I'm just a lazy s o b).

Mallardo Loc: NW Louisiana

Thanks, everybody. You gave me what I was looking for. :)

ottopj Loc: Annapolis, MD USA

You can pick up a 20D or 40D on Ebay for $100 - $150 and have that converted.

MW

I used filters on an unconverted camera for a while. It gave me an idea of what might be possible but I ended up deleting all the shots with filters once I had a converted camera.

Unconverted DSLRs have an IR blocking filter over the sensor but some still gets through. When YOU put an "IR-filter" over the lens it is a visible light blocking filter. So with a real long exposure more IR than vis reaches the sensor. This is doing the hard but cheap way, but it works.

Problems to be aware of:
--Good "IR filters" are not cheap and the cheap ones are not good (soft image).
--Long exposure means that even if the camera and tripod are rock steady, the subject might move. Even a slightest breeze with move foliage - so you may be trying out two new things at once. Long exposure and IR. If you already have some practice with long exposures you are a step ahead.
--You can't focus once the filter is on the camera. If the front of your lens is the kind that rotates you will get pretty frustrated. Focus is different for IR light vs visible anyway - stopping down helps but then your exposure gets longer.
--If you like the results you may find yourself compelled to dent your budget with another camera any way.

If you ultimately go for a new camera, get a used one or grey market since conversion voids the warranty. And get Live View as using it resolves the focus issues.

Mallardo Loc: NW Louisiana

Definitely a doable option. Hadn't thought of that. Thank you!

Mallardo Loc: NW Louisiana

Thanks for the insight. Long Exposure actually is another little hobby of mine so I'm used to that. If it's something that I get seriously in to, I can see breaking the bank for a new camera. Right now, I'm just looking to experiment more than anything. Thanks for the thoughts.

natron

You can check an unconverted camera for IR capability if the camera has a viewing screen; point a typical TV remote control at the camera, press a button, if you see a light flash from the remote, then the camera can see “short wave IR “light, and you will probably get usable results with a filter. Strong sunlight is good, f/11+ is good, and not shooting into the sun is good.

GC likes NIKON Loc: East Greenwich, Rhode Island

I am currently shooting some IR with my Nikon P7000 (that's a Cool Pix bridge camera) and a Hoya Filter. It is tough to get good sharp images. They are never tack sharp. IR focuses to a different plane than visible light.

A couple of points:

1) Don't assume your current DSLR is sensitive to IR. Some are and some arn't. I got all excited when I bought my D7100 and Sigma 10-20 Wide. Shelled out some cash for a big IR filter and guess what, the D7100 as good as it is at everything else SUCKS when it comes to IR sensitivity.

2) Play around with a filter & long exposures if you must. The nicest images are of foliage with green leaves turned white by the reflection of the water in the plants. The slightest breeze moves the foliage during the long exposure giving you blurred images. A converted DSLR shoots/exposes at normal exposure times freezing movement.

MW

Did you try focusing with live view? Just curious?

GC likes NIKON Loc: East Greenwich, Rhode Island

With the filter on there is practically nothing to see in the viewfinder that isn't deep purple in color. Not a good enough image to use for focusing.

GC likes NIKON Loc: East Greenwich, Rhode Island

Here are a couple resources to research info and get some basic knowledge:

http://www.lifepixel.com/infrared-filters-choices

http://irbuzz.blogspot.com/