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Need Advice Using Speedlight
Dec 23, 2011 13:23:48 #
I am new to UHH and really learning a lot reading the boards. I need some useful advice for using a speedlight. I have a Nikon D5100 and I just bought the SB700 speedlight.
I am going to be taking some photos at the family Christmas dinner and gift exchange tomorrow night(all adults) and I don't have any experience using a nice flash unit like this. This will be at my sister in law's house with standard white, 8ft ceilings. I am using a borrowed 17-55 f/2.8 AF-S DX IF-ED lens.
My idea is to use the camera on Aperture Priority, aperture 2.8, and set the flash to Slow-Sync. Then use the built in wide panel and diffusion dome on the flash and bounce the ceiling. The speedlight will be camera mounted.
By doing this I think I can capture some of the ambient lighting, minimize flash induced shadows and have nicely blurred backgrounds.
Am I on the right track?
I am going to be taking some photos at the family Christmas dinner and gift exchange tomorrow night(all adults) and I don't have any experience using a nice flash unit like this. This will be at my sister in law's house with standard white, 8ft ceilings. I am using a borrowed 17-55 f/2.8 AF-S DX IF-ED lens.
My idea is to use the camera on Aperture Priority, aperture 2.8, and set the flash to Slow-Sync. Then use the built in wide panel and diffusion dome on the flash and bounce the ceiling. The speedlight will be camera mounted.
By doing this I think I can capture some of the ambient lighting, minimize flash induced shadows and have nicely blurred backgrounds.
Am I on the right track?
Dec 23, 2011 14:03:01 #
You are absolutely on the right track. What you say will work. The only minor issue is that the camera will expose that background the way it thinks is correct. Which might be fine. Be sure your subjects are well away from the background.
If this fails to get what you want and you have time (doubtful with the family telling you to hurry up!) you can go to manual, turn off the flash, take an image with the shutter down around 1/30 or 1/15 to see where ambient seems about right. Then use that setting with the flash on. The flash/camera combination will expose the subject correctly (be SURE you have the flash set to TTL).
You can set this up ahead of time with the family bugging you!
But do your slow-sync thing first - it is easier.
If this fails to get what you want and you have time (doubtful with the family telling you to hurry up!) you can go to manual, turn off the flash, take an image with the shutter down around 1/30 or 1/15 to see where ambient seems about right. Then use that setting with the flash on. The flash/camera combination will expose the subject correctly (be SURE you have the flash set to TTL).
You can set this up ahead of time with the family bugging you!
But do your slow-sync thing first - it is easier.
Dec 23, 2011 14:27:43 #
Thanks Cliff. It seems that I might be learning enough to become dangerous! Now if I can just execute the plan without goofing something up.
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Dec 23, 2011 14:39:23 #
What usually works for me is to bounce at an angle, say 45 degrees behind and up toward the ceiling. I am trying to get the ceiling and the wall together, but not directly behind me.
I also shoot around 1/50 - 1/100.
I also shoot around 1/50 - 1/100.
Dec 23, 2011 14:47:33 #
Dec 23, 2011 15:15:07 #
RTR wrote:
Thanks, I will give this a go too.
And I'm going to try your settings as well. With my settings, I am not getting so much ambient light, but I have to crank my flash up to full power most of the time.
Dec 23, 2011 16:49:32 #
Wondering if f2.8 is too wide-- seems like you might get soft focus of people--unless they are all the same amount of distance from the camera-- I know your goal is blurred background and low light--- but I would hate to see you get that BUT then have too soft of focus of the faces.
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Dec 23, 2011 16:55:15 #
I'm going to suggest you go to this site and follow the directions.
If you do that, you will be able to take pictures with a flash and you would be hard pressed to tell if there was a flash in the room at the time.
You will be amazed at what you can do with 49 cents worth of craft foam.
http://neilvn.com/tangents/2009/11/21/the-black-foamie-thing/
Trust me...your speedlight will thank you...your guests will thank you....and after it's all over....you will thank Neil.
I guarantee it.
If you do that, you will be able to take pictures with a flash and you would be hard pressed to tell if there was a flash in the room at the time.
You will be amazed at what you can do with 49 cents worth of craft foam.
http://neilvn.com/tangents/2009/11/21/the-black-foamie-thing/
Trust me...your speedlight will thank you...your guests will thank you....and after it's all over....you will thank Neil.
I guarantee it.
Dec 23, 2011 18:53:49 #
rpavich wrote:
I'm going to suggest you go to this site and follo... (show quote)
I never shoot without my black foamie thing. I refined the design a little by using velcro rather than hair bands stolen from my daughters.
You are right, the black foamie thing when combined with his thoughts on directional bouncing are great. I tend to examine every room I enter, looking for places to bounce from even when I leave the camera at home (very rare)
Dec 24, 2011 03:29:42 #
rpavich wrote:
I'm going to suggest you go to this site and follo... (show quote)
Thanks for the link. I like his approach. I think I will try the black foamie thing and not use the 'tupperware' diffuser. Maybe I can practice a little bit tomorrow before the event.
I appreciate all of the suggestions. If I get any decent shots I will post a few but be forewarned this is not going to be a room full of models ;)
Dec 24, 2011 04:44:31 #
glad to hear it...I'm anxious to see what you've come up with.
Don't forget..you are trying to replicate where lights would be if you were taking a studio portrait. Where you bounce to becomes the big "soft box" light.
Shoot a stop or two underexposed without the flash, and adding flash should look very natural.
Good luck!
Don't forget..you are trying to replicate where lights would be if you were taking a studio portrait. Where you bounce to becomes the big "soft box" light.
Shoot a stop or two underexposed without the flash, and adding flash should look very natural.
Good luck!
Dec 24, 2011 10:07:20 #
Why use black form or felt when you could use white? It would still be opaque, would still act as a flag (gobo), but it would increase the flash output and recycle time?
Dec 24, 2011 10:22:52 #
avendano27
Loc: Pleasanton, California
This article is specific for Canon Speedlite but most ideas can be applied to Nikon or other brands.
Please read frequently asked question #7 and # 9.
http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/
The reason I pointed these FAQ is that I was doing it wrong before I read this article. When shooting indoor, I was using the aperture priority and the people would come out under exposed. When I set up to full auto or program, the people came out well exposed.
The idea above can also be applied with or without flash modifiers.
Please read frequently asked question #7 and # 9.
http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/
The reason I pointed these FAQ is that I was doing it wrong before I read this article. When shooting indoor, I was using the aperture priority and the people would come out under exposed. When I set up to full auto or program, the people came out well exposed.
The idea above can also be applied with or without flash modifiers.
Dec 24, 2011 10:23:11 #
Neil has an article explaining why (he tried it)
Here is his answer:
http://neilvn.com/tangents/2009/12/22/black-light-modifier/
Here is his answer:
http://neilvn.com/tangents/2009/12/22/black-light-modifier/
Dec 24, 2011 10:59:13 #
rpavich wrote:
Neil has an article explaining why (he tried it)
Here is his answer:
http://neilvn.com/tangents/2009/12/22/black-light-modifier/
Here is his answer:
http://neilvn.com/tangents/2009/12/22/black-light-modifier/
I understand why not to use a white reflector, but I don't understand why not to use white foam, especially when bouncing the flash.
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