apgfine wrote:
Just bought a circular polarizer for use with my Nikon D90. If I use the polarizer to cut glare and then use autofocus the lens rotates somewhat, thus negating the effect of the polarizer. I'm assuming I should autofocus first and then rotate the polarizer to achieve the desired effect. Am I correct in my assumption or am I missing something?
A polarizing filter or polarising filter is often placed in front of the camera lens in photography in order to darken skies, manage reflections, or suppress glare from the surface of lakes or sea. Since reflections (and sky-light) tend to be at least partially linearly-polarized, a linear polarizer can be used to change the balance of the light in the photograph. The rotational orientation of the filter is adjusted for the preferred artistic effect. For modern cameras, a circular polarizer is typically used, this comprises firstly a linear polarizer which performs the artistic function just described, followed by a quarter-wave plate which converts the now-linearly polarized light into circularly-polarised light before entering the camera. The additional step of converting the light to circular polarization avoids problems with auto-focus and light-metering sensors within some cameras, which otherwise may not function reliably with a simple linear polariser.
Polarizing filters can be rotated to maximise or minimise admission of polarised light. They are mounted in a rotating collar for this purpose - You need not screw or unscrew the filter to adjust the effect. Rotating the polarizing filter will make rainbows, reflections, and other polarized light stand out or nearly disappear depending on how much of the light is polarized and the angle of polarization.
There are two types of polarizing filters readily available, linear and "circular", which have exactly the same effect photographically. But the metering and auto-focus sensors in certain cameras, including virtually all auto-focus SLRs, will not work properly with linear polarizers because the beam splitters used to split off the light for focusing and metering are polarization-dependent. Linearly-polarized light may also defeat the action of the Anti-aliasing filter (Low-pass filter) on the imaging sensor.
"Circular" polarizing photographic filters consist of a linear polarizer on the front, with a quarter-wave plate on the back. The quarter-wave plate converts the selected polarization to circularly polarized light inside the camera. This works with all types of cameras, because mirrors and beam-splitters split circularly polarized light the same way they split unpolarized light.[6]
Linear polarizing filters can be easily distinguished from circular polarizers. In linear polarizing filters, the polarizing effect works (rotate to see differences) regardless of which side of the filter the scene is viewed from. In "circular" polarizing filters, the polarizing effect works when the scene is viewed from the male threaded (back) side of the filter, but does not work when looking through it backwards.
Polarizing filters reduce the light passed through to the film or sensor by about one to three stops (2-8x) depending on how much of the light is polarized at the filter angle selected. Auto-exposure cameras will adjust for this by widening the aperture, lengthening the shutter, and/or increasing the ASA/ISO speed of the camera. Polarizing filters can be used deliberately to reduce available light and allow use of wider apertures to shorten depth of field for certain focus effects.
Some companies make adjustable neutral density filters by having two linear polarising layers. When they are at 90° to each other, they let almost zero light in, admitting more as the angle decreases.