The 10X microscope objective
Nov 10, 2013 08:57:15 #
This is the setup as modified from the setup that LordV shared with us. You can now buy adapters on the net these days, but as far as I know LordV is the one that came up with the idea first. I just modified his idea to better suit my needs.
All that is needed is an objective that comes mounted in the lid of the carrier it comes in. I cut a hole in a body cap, and a corresponding hole in the objective cap. I then hot glued the objective to the body cap.The cover for the objective then can be added or removed as needed for storage. I use a set of keno ext tubes mounted to the camera body. I then mount the modified objective to the ext tubes.
Seeing as how one of the triad of photography is missing (the objective has a fixed aperture) exposure is handled through shutter speed, and ISO.
1.
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad192/Thunderhaven/_MG_38650.jpg
2.
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad192/Thunderhaven/_MG_38660.jpg
3.
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad192/Thunderhaven/_MG_38670.jpg
4.
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad192/Thunderhaven/_MG_38700.jpg
5.
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad192/Thunderhaven/_MG_38710.jpg
6.
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad192/Thunderhaven/_MG_38720.jpg
All that is needed is an objective that comes mounted in the lid of the carrier it comes in. I cut a hole in a body cap, and a corresponding hole in the objective cap. I then hot glued the objective to the body cap.The cover for the objective then can be added or removed as needed for storage. I use a set of keno ext tubes mounted to the camera body. I then mount the modified objective to the ext tubes.
Seeing as how one of the triad of photography is missing (the objective has a fixed aperture) exposure is handled through shutter speed, and ISO.
1.
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad192/Thunderhaven/_MG_38650.jpg
2.
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad192/Thunderhaven/_MG_38660.jpg
3.
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad192/Thunderhaven/_MG_38670.jpg
4.
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad192/Thunderhaven/_MG_38700.jpg
5.
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad192/Thunderhaven/_MG_38710.jpg
6.
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad192/Thunderhaven/_MG_38720.jpg
Nov 10, 2013 09:27:36 #
Nov 10, 2013 09:45:48 #
fstop22 wrote:
Do you take photos? Would like to see some.
Check the "Whats it" thread :)
Here is one that was made with a bunch photos stacked. The objective is a cheep one ($40.00) I wanted to be sure it worked. After two years I am ready to move up to a Nikon 20x at $180.00
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad192/Thunderhaven/2010-04-14-183930ZSPMax02.jpg
Nov 10, 2013 09:53:25 #
Thomas: I did something similar with a 5x objective, but I drilled and tapped a body cap. Attached is a photo of the reverse of a penny with the initials of the designer.
Nov 10, 2013 10:01:01 #
LoneRangeFinder wrote:
Looks like your design serves you well :)Thomas: I did something similar with a 5x objective, but I drilled and tapped a body cap. Attached is a photo of the reverse of a penny with the initials of the designer.
Nov 10, 2013 10:02:20 #
Thunder_o_b wrote:
That DOF is a #%$#@.... I, too, went the cheap way. I'll be curious to see what you get with the 20x. I've not really experimented enough to buy some quality.Looks like your design serves you well :)
Nov 10, 2013 10:21:25 #
LoneRangeFinder wrote:
I have been holding off on the Nikon objective because at the mag of the objectives the stacking is an ordeal. I have got to seriously decide if I want the Canon 400mm prime or the Stack shot rail system. They will cost the same once all the gear is added to do the stack shot system right. If I had not bought the Sig 120mm-400mm (very good for a zoom, but lacking in IQ for a prime user like me) I would get the stack shot soon. But I also want to be able to do birding. *sigh* decisions, decisions :?I, too, went the cheap way. I'll be curious to see what you get with the 20x. I've not really experimented enough to buy some quality.
Nov 10, 2013 10:50:28 #
Thunder_o_b wrote:
I have nothing longer than my macro lens @ 105-- and I'd love to get a prime telephoto lens, but I'll never be able to afford one. Even the rentals are steep. There's a lot of kayak spots around where I live so I'd love to do some birding on the water-- but the cropping would frustrate meI have been holding off on the Nikon objective bec... (show quote)
Nov 10, 2013 11:06:46 #
LoneRangeFinder wrote:
Can you live with the level of quality of a 120m-400mm zoom? I have the Sig and it is rated sharper than the Canon 100mm-400mm. If you are a Canon user I can give you a good price on mine. I am a prime user, and should have known better than to get a zoom. Even if it is a good one.I have nothing longer than my macro lens @ 105-- and I'd love to get a prime telephoto lens, but I'll never be able to afford one.
Nov 10, 2013 11:11:38 #
Thunder_o_b wrote:
No I shoot Nikon--although that 65mm MP-E tempts me!Can you live with the level of quality of a 120m-400mm zoom? I have the Sig and it is rated sharper than the Canon 100mm-400mm. If you are a Canon user I can give you a good price on mine.
Nov 10, 2013 11:51:18 #
LoneRangeFinder wrote:
There is more than one Nikon lover out there that has bought an older used Canon Rebel to use with a MP-E65
Just a thought :)No I shoot Nikon--although that 65mm MP-E tempts me!
Nov 10, 2013 13:20:33 #
Thunder_o_b wrote:
Rebel and MP-E go well together. T2i and T3i are good cameras and very reasonable priced on the used market. I started with a used T2i ($239) and very glad I did as it solidified my desire to shoot macro with the MP-E without dumping a chunk of change on the body.There is more than one Nikon lover out there that has bought an older used Canon Rebel to use with a MP-E65
Just a thought :)
Nov 11, 2013 23:55:59 #
Brian in Whitby
Loc: Whitby, Ontario, Canada
Thunder_o_b wrote:
How do you get the proper distance between the objective lens and the sensor?All that is needed is an objective that comes mounted in the lid of the carrier it comes in. I cut a hole in a body cap, and a corresponding hole in the objective cap. I then hot glued the objective to the body cap.The cover for the objective then can be added or removed as needed for storage. I use a set of keno ext tubes mounted to the camera body. I then mount the modified objective to the ext tubes.
I assume focusing is done by moving the whole camera and lens assembly.
Most microscope shots are done using light transmitted through a slide. In that case, the diaphragm is mounted below the stage.
Nov 12, 2013 00:29:10 #
Brian in Whitby wrote:
Sounds like Thunder is using tubes to space the objective from the sensor. Easiest way I have found to do it is using bellows. Yes you move the whole camera assembly, usually on a linear slide/stage. For photography proper illumination is best achieved using objectives with long working distances. I believe Nikon rates them as LWD, SLWD, and ELWD. The further the objective is away from the subject the easier it is to illuminate it. Diffusers are made out of ping-pong balls, styrofoam, etc. The subject is enveloped within the diffuser and flashes (or constant light source like LED) fired outside the diffuser for illumination.How do you get the proper distance between the objective lens and the sensor?
I assume focusing is done by moving the whole camera and lens assembly.
Most microscope shots are done using light transmitted through a slide. In that case, the diaphragm is mounted below the stage.
I assume focusing is done by moving the whole camera and lens assembly.
Most microscope shots are done using light transmitted through a slide. In that case, the diaphragm is mounted below the stage.
Nov 12, 2013 05:50:21 #
Well, lets get busy and shot some more.
:thumbup: :thumbup:
:thumbup: :thumbup:
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