I love crunchy food! Please critique. What could I have or should I have done differently in the camera? I welcome any PP suggestions, but I have not yet started doing any PP work and...

STVest Loc: LA - that's Lower Alabama

Please critique.

What could I have or should I have done differently in the camera?

I welcome any PP suggestions, but I have not yet started doing any PP work and am not able to act on your suggestions now. But, I will keep notes and apply your suggestions later.

Anyone inclined to do any work -- have at it!

Thanks for your time and attention.

Yum Yum

Heirloom Tomato Loc: Oregon

STVest wrote:

Please critique.

What could I have or should I have done differently in the camera?

I welcome any PP suggestions, but I have not yet started doing any PP work and am not able to act on your suggestions now. But, I will keep notes and apply your suggestions later.

Anyone inclined to do any work -- have at it!

Thanks for your time and attention.

The light looks pretty bright. Two things I try to do in bright outdoor light are: 1) bracket exposures or 2) change exposure compensation to whatever works best on your camera. I usually get good results at -1/3 but a lot of cameras want -2/3 or more. That will make colors look richer.

Tea8 Loc: Where the wind comes sweeping down the plain.

Along with the exposure that was mentioned I would watch where you have the focus point. It appears to be the sharpest right at the feet and I would like to see it clearest on the eye.(Maybe that's from some movement of the head as the pic was taken)

STVest Loc: LA - that's Lower Alabama

Heirloom Tomato wrote:

The light looks pretty bright. Two things I try to do in bright outdoor light are: 1) bracket exposures or 2) change exposure compensation to whatever works best on your camera. I usually get good results at -1/3 but a lot of cameras want -2/3 or more. That will make colors look richer.

Thanks Heirloom.

I have never employed Automatic Exposure Bracketing, but will reread that part of my manual that explains it and get some practice with it. I usually set my exposure compensation to "0" or adjust to +1/3 or +2/3. Why? The software I'm using is the ZoomBrowser that came with the camera and what little tweaking I have done, I find that the software seems to do better at darkening than at lightening the photos. So, I've been doing the exact opposite of what I should?

I went back and tried adjusting the brightness, but no matter what, the breast and especially the beak are just too blown out.

Again, thanks!

Heirloom Tomato Loc: Oregon

STVest wrote:

Thanks Heirloom. br br I have never employed Auto... (show quote)

The tricky thing (for me) about bracketing is you have to hold the camera really still and wait for it to take however many exposures you have set it to take. Sometimes I forget I have set the camera to "bracket" and I get some pretty silly and smeary shots by mistake. It works, though. In my software, PSE11, I find it impossible to recover blown highlights, but usually easy to pull details out of something that looks a little dark.

STVest Loc: LA - that's Lower Alabama

Tea8 wrote:

Along with the exposure that was mentioned I would watch where you have the focus point. It appears to be the sharpest right at the feet and I would like to see it clearest on the eye.(Maybe that's from some movement of the head as the pic was taken)

Thanks, Robin. I do try to focus on the eyes. Focusing has been a BIG challenge for me -- and I can't figure out why. I have been very careful to gently push the shutter release, usually use a tripod (always on the birds at my feeders), and miss MANY shots because I spend so much time trying to get the focus perfect (it ain't happened yet). I am now using a remote shutter release to be sure I'm not causing camera movement -- that seems to have helped some, but it certainly hasn't been a cure all. I'm trying! I'm really trying! Any suggestions? Maybe it IS time to schedule that overdue eye doctor appointment.

Thanks for looking and commenting.

STVest Loc: LA - that's Lower Alabama

Heirloom Tomato wrote:

In my software, PSE11, I find it impossible to recover blown highlights, but usually easy to pull details out of something that looks a little dark.

I bought PSE11 when I bought the camera, but have been so challenged with the photography itself, I haven't even loaded the software yet (probably could have saved a lot of $ on the purchase if I'd waited until I was ready to use it before I bought it). Sounds like I need to reverse my method.

Heirloom Tomato Loc: Oregon

STVest wrote:

I bought PSE11 when I bought the camera, but have been so challenged with the photography itself, I haven't even loaded the software yet (probably could have saved a lot of $ on the purchase if I'd waited until I was ready to use it before I bought it). Sounds like I need to reverse my method.

Give it a whirl and let us know what you think. PSE11 is by far the easiest version to learn and use. I never really connected with the earlier versions, but I love this one. You will be amazed.

Tea8 Loc: Where the wind comes sweeping down the plain.

STVest wrote:

Thanks, Robin. I do try to focus on the eyes. Fo... (show quote)

Are you auto focusing or manually focusing? Have you tried adjusting the diopter(spelling on that it doesn't look right?) on the viewfinder cause that can throw off your focus too. Or it might be time to see the eye doctor. I have to go in every year and let him check mine (I was blessed with terrible eyesight).

STVest Loc: LA - that's Lower Alabama

Tea8 wrote:

Are you auto focusing or manually focusing? Have you tried adjusting the diopter(spelling on that it doesn't look right?) on the viewfinder cause that can throw off your focus too. Or it might be time to see the eye doctor. I have to go in every year and let him check mine (I was blessed with terrible eyesight).

I am manually focusing. The diopter is adjusted. I am past due for an eye exam -- but I see everything else just fine! I was blessed with very good eyesight -- until a couple of years ago when I developed astigmatism. I'm retired! I had no idea that problem could develop so late in life - I thought it was something you were born with!

Bmac Loc: Long Island, NY

You need to focus better so that your subject is sharp, especially this type of subject.

Your settings were ISO 200, 500mm, f/8, 1/100 second. At the very least, at 500mm you should be shooting at 1/500 of a second to eliminate camera shake.....or use a tripod or monopod. Raise your ISO if necessary to achieve a faster exposure time, I would try for 1/1000 of a second at 500mm. If you shoot a gun use the same breathing technique and then squeeze the shutter release. Use a spot focus and focus on the eyes of the creature. Try this and you should see a marked difference in the sharpness of your subject. 8-)

Country's Mama Loc: Michigan

STVest wrote:

I bought PSE11 when I bought the camera, but have been so challenged with the photography itself, I haven't even loaded the software yet (probably could have saved a lot of $ on the purchase if I'd waited until I was ready to use it before I bought it). Sounds like I need to reverse my method.

Two things come to mind when you say you struggle with focus. One you might need to up your ISO so you can shoot faster. It might be camera movement. The other is do you shoot with or without glasses. I guess maybe I should ask if you wear them. If so you may want to adjust or replace your diopter. Make sure that it is set for your eyes. I shoot with my glasses off and when I bought a diopter that matched the prescription in the eye I shoot with my focus problem got much better.
oops I didn't read down far enough.

STVest Loc: LA - that's Lower Alabama

Heirloom Tomato wrote:

The tricky thing (for me) about bracketing is you have to hold the camera really still and wait for it to take however many exposures you have set it to take.

Is this not a problem when shooting birds? For MOST of my shooting, the camera is on a tripod, so holding the camera (if I don't bump into it) shouldn't be a problem, but, who's gonna make the birds hold still?

STVest Loc: LA - that's Lower Alabama

Bmac wrote:

You need to focus better so that your subject is s... (show quote)

I know, I know. Your shutter speed should be at least 1/lens length. What I don't know is why I am so resistant to a high ISO. I guess I should stop fighting conventional wisdom. When shooting in manual mode, can I set the shutter speed, the aperture, and set the ISO on auto and let the camera have it's way with the ISO. Or should I shoot in a different mode?

I use a tripod for 99.9% of my bird shots; use only the center focus point; and TRY to focus on the eye(s). So, my failure is very frustrating.

I used to be a darned good target shooter!

Thanks for your input. I'll try all you've recommended.

STVest Loc: LA - that's Lower Alabama

Country's Mama wrote:

Two things come to mind when you say you struggle ... (show quote)

I set the diopter without glasses and shoot without glasses. Maybe I should get my prescription updated and set diopter and shoot WITH glasses?

Thanks for your help.