What is Focus-Stacking and What is Involved?
Oct 13, 2013 21:45:03 #
The purpose of this thread is to explain the process of Focus Stacking. Standard equipment needed: DSLR, macro lens (or sharpest lens available), standard speedlight with diffuser is helpful (but not necessary), and a tripod. Stacking software, such as Zerene or Helicon Focus, is required for post processing the captured images.
The images below where capture early morning in the field, when there is little to no wind. Direct sunlight on subject enhances illumination. I prefer to use speedlight illumination, so that I can set ISO to 100, as this helps with the finished product. Using a shutter duration of 1/200-sec with speedlight, helps freeze plant/insect/subject movement. I manual focus by turning the Focusing Ring on the lens. The camera and lens are stationary on a tripod. I start by lining up my Field-of-View, making sure the subject will be in the frame from closest plane of focus, to the furthest.
I select an aperture between f/5.6 to f/9. To start, you may want to use your DoF Preview on your camera, to show the depth of plane in focus. If just starting out, I recommend f/9, which has a wider DoF, to avoid missed "focus bands." The idea is to gradually advance focus, with just a touch of focus overlap between consecutive exposures. Usually, two stops from wide open is the sharpest aperture for a lens.
I always start with the area closest to me, and work outwards through consecutive photographs. The Post Processing software works front to back, or back to front, but your photos must be in consecutive order. If you take a photo out of sequence, in case you missed an area, the software will stumble and fight you all the way. Better to start over, unless you have experience using the stacking software.
Take an initial test photo, to make sure exposure is correct. I press the shutter button. Other stack photographers use a remote shutter release. Focusing on the closest surface of subject, take first shot, advance focus ever so slightly, then take second shot. I try to overlap DoF by 15% or so, to not miss a band of focus. Continue advancing focus to back point of subject.
I use Zerene stacking software. After I finish capturing a stack, I download all into my computer. I review photos, making sure I haven't missed any of the subject for focus, and of coarse make sure it's done well enough to continue. I like to hand-hold for stack photography, but for this tutorial I used a tripod. You will make errors, the wind will blow, your speedlight may mis-fire, etc. Macro-photography is a challenge, sequential focus-advancing is a challenge, and stacking images is a challenge. If it was easy, everyone would be doing it.
With my sequential photos in a folder within my PC, I open Zerene, click drag and drop folder into the software. I then align and stack using both methods Zerene offers. I then check the finished photo of the stacks and pick the best photo to start with. From here, I take the finished photo and repair areas that may need a little touch up by choosing from my single photos for focused areas that need repair. Like using the Clone Stamp feature. Zerene has their own tutorial, but I recommend searching Youtube for independent tutorials on using Zerene, which is easier to understand. Just find the right tutorial that works for you. If you have this software and need help, just drop me a PM and I will help where I can. I know how to use, but don't talk computer very well.
Martin Fisher
http://zerenesystems.com/cms/stacker
http://www.heliconsoft.com/heliconsoft-products/helicon-focus
The images below where capture early morning in the field, when there is little to no wind. Direct sunlight on subject enhances illumination. I prefer to use speedlight illumination, so that I can set ISO to 100, as this helps with the finished product. Using a shutter duration of 1/200-sec with speedlight, helps freeze plant/insect/subject movement. I manual focus by turning the Focusing Ring on the lens. The camera and lens are stationary on a tripod. I start by lining up my Field-of-View, making sure the subject will be in the frame from closest plane of focus, to the furthest.
I select an aperture between f/5.6 to f/9. To start, you may want to use your DoF Preview on your camera, to show the depth of plane in focus. If just starting out, I recommend f/9, which has a wider DoF, to avoid missed "focus bands." The idea is to gradually advance focus, with just a touch of focus overlap between consecutive exposures. Usually, two stops from wide open is the sharpest aperture for a lens.
I always start with the area closest to me, and work outwards through consecutive photographs. The Post Processing software works front to back, or back to front, but your photos must be in consecutive order. If you take a photo out of sequence, in case you missed an area, the software will stumble and fight you all the way. Better to start over, unless you have experience using the stacking software.
Take an initial test photo, to make sure exposure is correct. I press the shutter button. Other stack photographers use a remote shutter release. Focusing on the closest surface of subject, take first shot, advance focus ever so slightly, then take second shot. I try to overlap DoF by 15% or so, to not miss a band of focus. Continue advancing focus to back point of subject.
I use Zerene stacking software. After I finish capturing a stack, I download all into my computer. I review photos, making sure I haven't missed any of the subject for focus, and of coarse make sure it's done well enough to continue. I like to hand-hold for stack photography, but for this tutorial I used a tripod. You will make errors, the wind will blow, your speedlight may mis-fire, etc. Macro-photography is a challenge, sequential focus-advancing is a challenge, and stacking images is a challenge. If it was easy, everyone would be doing it.
With my sequential photos in a folder within my PC, I open Zerene, click drag and drop folder into the software. I then align and stack using both methods Zerene offers. I then check the finished photo of the stacks and pick the best photo to start with. From here, I take the finished photo and repair areas that may need a little touch up by choosing from my single photos for focused areas that need repair. Like using the Clone Stamp feature. Zerene has their own tutorial, but I recommend searching Youtube for independent tutorials on using Zerene, which is easier to understand. Just find the right tutorial that works for you. If you have this software and need help, just drop me a PM and I will help where I can. I know how to use, but don't talk computer very well.
Martin Fisher
http://zerenesystems.com/cms/stacker
http://www.heliconsoft.com/heliconsoft-products/helicon-focus
Final image from 35 stacked photos, each 1/200-sec at f/5.6 at ISO100 with diffused speedlight at 1/3 power
First photo, focus on front petal points
Almost last photo, focused on rear petals
Final image from 11 seperate photos, ISO100 1/200-sec at f/9
First photo, focus on front detail
Last photo, focus on rear detail
Fimal image from 18 stacked photos, ISO 100 1/200-sec at f/9
Near front photo
Near rear photo
Oct 18, 2013 16:46:46 #
DP Review: Focus Stacking in Macro Photography
http://www.dpreview.com/articles/5717972844/focus-stacking-in-macro-photography (page 1)
http://www.dpreview.com/articles/5717972844/focus-stacking-in-macro-photography/2 (page 2)
Light Stalking tutorial:
http://www.lightstalking.com/photography-tutorial-focus-stacking
http://www.dpreview.com/articles/5717972844/focus-stacking-in-macro-photography (page 1)
http://www.dpreview.com/articles/5717972844/focus-stacking-in-macro-photography/2 (page 2)
Light Stalking tutorial:
http://www.lightstalking.com/photography-tutorial-focus-stacking
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