Circular/Linear Polarizer Lubricant: I have B-W linear and circular polarizing filters that have bound up/hard to dial. Anything work to free them up?

tenbach Loc: SW Utah

I have B-W linear and circular polarizing filters that have bound up/hard to dial. Anything work to free them up?

MT Shooter Loc: Montana

Canned air will likely remove any dust that is causing the filters to stiffen, but if you have gotten any oils or other liquids in them you will have to give the filter an alcohol bath (10% isopropyl alcohol in distilled water) to remove that kind of build-up. If its something like soda pop them it will need a warm distilled water and dishsoap soak.
Good luck.

tenbach Loc: SW Utah

Explain alcohol bath. Will it get between the two layers?

MT Shooter Loc: Montana

tenbach wrote:

Explain alcohol bath. Will it get between the two layers?

Two layers of what? The ring is two pieces that turn to orientate the polarizing glass. There are not two layers of glass.

FredB Loc: A little below the Mason-Dixon line.

You might try a syringe, medical or otherwise, with a tiny bit of sewing machine oil in it. I think modelers use syringes for applying glue in tight spots, you might try that kind of thing. Just make sure there's no glue in it first...

Lens Cap Loc: The Cold North Coast

FredB wrote:

You might try a syringe, medical or otherwise, with a tiny bit of sewing machine oil in it. I think modelers use syringes for applying glue in tight spots, you might try that kind of thing. Just make sure there's no glue in it first...

Any kind of oil will collect any and all dust and grit making your polarizer harder to use......Do the alcohol cleaning and leave it dry....at best use a dry graphite for lubrication.

Bruce with a Canon Loc: Islip

Lens Cap wrote:

Any kind of oil will collect any and all dust and grit making your polarizer harder to use......Do the alcohol cleaning and leave it dry....at best use a dry graphite for lubrication.

if you can find it MOLYDISULFIDE lube is like graphite but MUCH smaller particles.
Like comparing bowling ball to bird shot. a TINY amount will lube threads with no oil contamination

miles1

Hi:

I would suggest you contact Schneider Optics
who now owns B+W and ask them.

You could do damage and who but the horses mouth could give you the best solution.

Below I have contact information for both CA. & NY.

Miles1

Phone:
800-228-1254 or
818-766-3715
Fax:
818-505-9865
Mail:
Schneider Optics
7701 Haskell Ave
Van Nuys, CA 91406

Phone:
800-645-7239 or
631-761-5000
Fax:
631-761-5090
Mail:
Schneider Optics
285 Oser Ave
Hauppauge, NY 11788

Directions to Hauppauge, NY , office.

dpullum Loc: Tampa Florida

MT Shooter wrote:

Two layers of what? The ring is two pieces that turn to orientate the polarizing glass. There are not two layers of glass.

I think that the glass is a sandwich of two glasses and a polarizing plastic between. Alcohol bath causing problems would depend on time; a quick rinse .... no problemO.

If I am wrong about the sandwich let me know, gotta go teach no time to look up a ref.

boberic Loc: Quiet Corner, Connecticut. Ex long Islander

I Know this will sound strange to some but it's true. Every one allways has the best lubricant with them at all times. Nose oil. Gently rub a finger where the nose meets the cheek and you will notice a slight film of oil. Watch makers have used forever. There is only one other place to find this. sharks.. When the filter iv freed up and clean rub nose oil on the threads to keep it from binding. (PS) please don't put your finger in your nose when you use this technique.

wykeman

WD40. Spray a little onto a piece of wire so it forms a drop on the end, then touch that drop to the place where th moveable part meets the non moveable. Repeat until it works. That should ease the situation. Good luck.

schuchmn

miles1 wrote:

I would suggest you contact Schneider Optics
who now owns B+W and ask them.

You could do damage and who but the horses mouth could give you the best solution.

I agree wholeheartedly. A polarizer should never need lubricant and the wrong lubricant can leak out and damage the filter or even your lens. Probably not a huge risk of the latter, but I wouldn't chance it with my gear.

I think the theory that you you've got gunk in it that needs to be cleaned out is most likely right. Let the manufacturer tell you what the safest way to clean it is.

Bamboo Loc: South Carolina

boberic wrote:

I Know this will sound strange to some but it's true. Every one allways has the best lubricant with them at all times. Nose oil. Gently rub a finger where the nose meets the cheek and you will notice a slight film of oil. Watch makers have used forever. There is only one other place to find this. sharks.. When the filter iv freed up and clean rub nose oil on the threads to keep it from binding. (PS) please don't put your finger in your nose when you use this technique.

Thank you for that boberic, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nasal_sebum

boberic Loc: Quiet Corner, Connecticut. Ex long Islander

Bamboo wrote:

Thank you for that boberic, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nasal_sebum

Just clicked on the wikepedia line. I forgot that the name of nose oil is called Squalene. Interesting to note that the genus for sharks is Squalus.

CSI Dave Loc: Arizona

boberic wrote:

I Know this will sound strange to some but it's true. Every one allways has the best lubricant with them at all times. Nose oil. Gently rub a finger where the nose meets the cheek and you will notice a slight film of oil. Watch makers have used forever. There is only one other place to find this. sharks.. When the filter iv freed up and clean rub nose oil on the threads to keep it from binding. (PS) please don't put your finger in your nose when you use this technique.

Great, now I have to carry a shark around, too. I'll need a bigger bag.