Hey fellow Hogs, I'm looking for a good Polarizing filter. I've been looking at the Helicon, B&H, Hoya HD, among others. Does anyone have experience with any of these filters? What I want to know is:
Do they operate smoothly?
Is the transition from polarized to not-polarized smooth and linear?
Are there any significant differences that might influence my decision?
What are your recommendations?
I'm willing to spend up to $300 each for a 77mm and a 82mm and I'll be using it primarily for landscape photography. Thanks for your opinions and thoughts.
I use hoya polarizers and tiffen ND filters, very happy with their quality
Dave Johnson wrote:
Hey fellow Hogs, I'm looking for a good Polarizing filter. I've been looking at the Helicon, B&H, Hoya HD, among others. Does anyone have experience with any of these filters? What I want to know is:
Do they operate smoothly?
Is the transition from polarized to not-polarized smooth and linear?
Are there any significant differences that might influence my decision?
What are your recommendations?
I'm willing to spend up to $300 each for a 77mm and a 82mm and I'll be using it primarily for landscape photography. Thanks for your opinions and thoughts.
Hey fellow Hogs, I'm looking for a good Polarizing... (
show quote)
All the big names are good, that's why they are big names.
I would buy one 82mm and a step down 82-77mm ring and save the cost of the smaller filter.
Eric
Dave Johnson wrote:
Hey fellow Hogs, I'm looking for a good Polarizing filter. I've been looking at the Helicon, B&H, Hoya HD, among others. Does anyone have experience with any of these filters? What I want to know is:
Do they operate smoothly?
Is the transition from polarized to not-polarized smooth and linear?
Are there any significant differences that might influence my decision?
What are your recommendations?
I'm willing to spend up to $300 each for a 77mm and a 82mm and I'll be using it primarily for landscape photography. Thanks for your opinions and thoughts.
Hey fellow Hogs, I'm looking for a good Polarizing... (
show quote)
I'm on the iPad, so I can't give you the link, but if you Google polarizer reviews, you will find a detailed on from Poland.
I agree with Eric's idea...get the 82mm and a stepping ring to use it on your 77mm diameter lens. I like my B+W polarizing filters. They use brass rings, and are flawless.
What I have discovered:
1. Body material makes difference. Since not all shots require a Polarizing filter, they are attached and removed constantly. Since the fine threads and large diameter lead to cross threading by an excited photographer, A material that is tolerant of clumsy fingers is a must.
a. The cheaper lenses use plastic which is a bit flexible, allowing for easy unscrew. However, once they are cross thread, the difficulty of re-attaching increases exponentially. I have been successful in "chasing the threads" by repeatedly screwing and unscrewing the almost useless UV filter to my circular polar.
b. The next step up the quality scale is aluminum body. It is more resistant to cross threading but has a tendency to stick when the filter is over tightened. Paint peeling and thread galling are also a problem
c. Brass is the best material for repeated use. The question is does my usage justify the added cost?
2. Circular vs. Plane polarizing, The Through The Lens (TTL) metering process requires circular polarization to get the meter to come close to doing its job adequately.
3. Quality and quantity of the light transmitted should be the most important factor.
a. Does the filter cause chromatic aberrations?
b. How much and at what wave lengths does it modify the histogram? A good one should just eliminate the glare.
c. How much does it reduce the f-stop?
d. Optical Glass Sandwich vs. Plastic?
4. Scratch, grime, etc. resistance: Since this little puppy will be riding around in the camera bag and pulled out in the wild out doors, this is important.
5. Vignetting: Sticking filters on the end of a lens will show up on the image sensor if it sticks out too far. The Thicker filter the bigger the problem. The wider the filter the less the problem "Yes, buy the largest filter and step up rings.
I purchased a B +W Kaesemann. I am happy with it.
:thumbup:
Thank you all for the comments so far, I do appreciate it. I actually gave some thought to using an 82mm with adapter for my 77mm applications but I'm concerned that it might interfere with my lens hoods.
Ken Shilkun wrote:
What I have discovered:
1. Body material makes difference. Since not all shots require a Polarizing filter, they are attached and removed constantly. Since the fine threads and large diameter lead to cross threading by an excited photographer, A material that is tolerant of clumsy fingers is a must.
5. Vignetting: Sticking filters on the end of a lens will show up on the image sensor if it sticks out too far. The Thicker filter the bigger the problem. The wider the filter the less the problem "Yes, buy the largest filter and step up rings.
I purchased a B +W Kaesemann. I am happy with it.
:thumbup:
What I have discovered: br 1. Body material makes ... (
show quote)
I used to hate all that "screwing around" with filters. Someone here recently mentioned the Xume ("zoom") magnetic filter holder. It's fantastic. One second on or off.
However, as you said, vignetting can be a problem. The picture below was shot at 28mm using a 28-300mm.
Using a larger filter with a lens hood would be a problem.
It was so windy that the ocean tilted - or maybe I tilted the camera.
Hankwt
Loc: kingsville ontario
that Zume looks very very interesting
as for the OP B+W all the way !!
I consider rethinking the filters. If you are using it for landscape it is likely you will be in manual and not using auto focus. Which is the reason for using circular polarizing filters. Consider using a regular polarizing filter. I recently bought several at a local flea market (Tiffen,) for $5.
The filter market has become some thing like the audio market. Audiophiles spend hundreds for speaker wire that does nothing a lamp cord wouldnt do.
How could a flat piece of glass, even one that is a sandwiched of polarizing plastic cost hundreds. Its near the price of a complex kit zoom lens that is so much more complex there is no comparison.
When you hear a cameras sales person say, You wouldnt want to put a cheap peace of glass in front of a thousand dollar lens you are being conned.
Ansel Adams used gelatin filters and he did OK.
Polarizers are an excellent choice for Landscape photography allowing for glare and contrast adjustments and Manual Focus will be used for most captures allowing focusing 1/3 of the way into the shot while using narrow apertures using DOF. Cheap filters abound and the one way to assure quality pictures are to compare or as you are doing ask competent fellow photog's which brands are best.
jerryc41 wrote:
I used to hate all that "screwing around" with filters. Someone here recently mentioned the Xume ("zoom") magnetic filter holder. It's fantastic. One second on or off.
However, as you said, vignetting can be a problem. The picture below was shot at 28mm using a 28-300mm.
Using a larger filter with a lens hood would be a problem.
Hey Jerry, I believe you when you say the ocean tilted. I've seen that happen in some of my own pictures. :D:D:D
Thanks for the heads up on the Xume adapters. That looks like a good idea
the best are singh ray filters, can't beat them
WAL wrote:
I consider rethinking the filters. If you are using it for landscape it is likely you will be in manual and not using auto focus. Which is the reason for using circular polarizing filters. Consider using a regular polarizing filter. I recently bought several at a local flea market (Tiffen,) for $5.
The filter market has become some thing like the audio market. Audiophiles spend hundreds for speaker wire that does nothing a lamp cord wouldnt do.
How could a flat piece of glass, even one that is a sandwiched of polarizing plastic cost hundreds. Its near the price of a complex kit zoom lens that is so much more complex there is no comparison.
When you hear a cameras sales person say, You wouldnt want to put a cheap peace of glass in front of a thousand dollar lens you are being conned.
Ansel Adams used gelatin filters and he did OK.
I consider rethinking the filters. If you are usin... (
show quote)
Thank you for your comments Wal and believe me it's not like I want to throw a bunch of money at filters, but the reason I'm willing to spend more is that occasionally I'll be using it in inclement weather. As Ken mentioned earlier, build quality is important so I would like to have a brass frame with sealed optics. The higher end filters are also purported to clean faster and easier. That will be very useful out in the field.
Has anyone got the Hoya HD, it's getting some good press.
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