Grand Loc: Lebanon, Pa

Need some help in setting up a portrait studio-my ceiling is white, walls dark paneling-my lens are-35,50,85,18-55,n a 50-200mm.

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

So you need lighting advice then? Budget?
I recommend monolights and Paul Buff makes some great products.
http://paulcbuff.com/

For studio, especially small ones, I like using softboxes over umbrellas. You get better control of the lighting. This place has some great publications: http://www.amherstmedia.com/

Grand Loc: Lebanon, Pa

thanks

SharpShooter Loc: NorCal

Grand, have you done some portrait work, and just seething up your own place, or is this something completely new to you that you are trying?
Are you on a tight or shoestring budget, or do you just need to know what would be ideal to get, regardless of cost? SS

Grand Loc: Lebanon, Pa

Tight budget...would like to know which lens to use(the ones I have)

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

'I'm sure you have an APS-C sensored camera, by the lenses you listed. (The 18-55 and 50-200 are a dead giveaway)
The best one to use would be your 85, if you have the room to use it, followed by the 50.
What do you do for lighting?

sb Loc: Florida's East Coast

You really need to use your 85 prime lens or the zoom. The others really won't give you good portraits. Look up the Cowboy Studio products on Amazon. I have been impressed. Also - some of the Chinese flashes are very good - lots of Hoggers use the Yungnow flashes - I have several, and the remote triggers are cheap - and the new YN560-III flash has a built-in receiver for the transceivers. I am very impressed with the build quality and function of these flashes and will be buying a few more. Some of the cheaper studio set-ups use CFL (compact fluorescent) bulbs, which are great in that they don't generate heat - however - you cannot dim them, and the only way of reducing light is to use a smaller-wattage bulb or move the light-stand back, which might be a challenge unless you have a large studio. This still is not a bad option - an entire studio with 3 stands, bulbs, umbrellas, backdrop stand, and backdrops can be purchased for about $200. Best wishes.

selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA

How big is the room? You need to place the camera between about 7 and 15 feet from the subject to get naturally proportioned features.

Then you need to find an arrangement for lighting that suits your subject matter. There are plenty of sources on the internet and in books to guide you regarding light placement, number of lights and whether they should be straight, bounced or in soft boxes. You will need room for the lights and a background other than your paneling.

Focal length depends on how much of the subject you want to include in the portrait. In other words, what do you consider to be a portrait? Forget all of the nonsense you might hear about any particular focal length being the right one for a portrait. If you stay within the camera to subject distance parameters, any lens from a wide angle to a telephoto can produce a portrait, from a full body to a head shot. Different focal lengths merely offer a way to crop the image in the camera.

Grand Loc: Lebanon, Pa

thans sb

Grand Loc: Lebanon, Pa

Thanks everyone

sb Loc: Florida's East Coast

Oh no you don't! You don't get away that easily! We will expect to see results!!! Have a great weekend. :)

Grand Loc: Lebanon, Pa

As far as lighting, I haven't got that far yet. Have any ideas

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

Just as important as lens selection. (Maybe more)
Do you have a speedlight or two?
That's all I use now for location work.
I use wireless triggers- lots of options there and some inexpensive ones.
You can mount them in a softbox or use them with umbrellas. Keep it simple, you can do a lot with one or two lights. Adding more gets tricky if you don't know what you are doing.

My favorite site is Strobist.
It has tons of great information on using speedlights.
http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101-start-here.html?m=1

speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

JBTaylor Loc: In hiding again

I second the Alien Bees recommendation. American made by a good company and the lights can be adjusted remotely. However, if the budget is really tight, you may be able to start with Flashpoint II 320M monolights for $100 each. These are full studio flashes solidly built. The issue will be if you eventually upgrade Alien Bees later, your accessories will be compatible with your existing equipment but not your new equipment. Much like the issues of changing camera brands with you own lots of lenses. However, Adorama sells a Flashpoint softbox speedring in a Alien Bees mount for $20 that will allow you to use your Flashpoint softbox on a Alien Bees flash.

Nothing says that you wouldn't want to stay with Flashpoint II brand. It's solid equipment for me so far and if you want to use it outside away from power sources, the battery pack is only $125. However, the price differential drops when you step up to the Flashpoint 620M or higher if you really wanted Alien Bees all along.

Reasons to switch to/start with Alien Bees are the option to remotely control the lights' settings and the PLM system. For those reasons. I switched to (or added on) White Lighting which is kind of a premium version of the Alien Bees.

How big is your room that you want to use as studio? That can be the biggest limitation for what you can do with it.