I have another focus question: I see in another thread about "Focus Clarity" about focus points. I tried the other day using Manual and the light meter to get the proper exposure. The...

Tooth Maker Loc: North Carolina

I see in another thread about "Focus Clarity" about focus points. I tried the other day using Manual and the light meter to get the proper exposure. The sun was very low and not much light. I am going to submit two photos within seconds of each other. One is very soft and the other (fairly) sharp. Is what I am experiencing from the shutter speed being to slow or on the one just lucky. I know they are not great but I am experimenting with Manual using metering to get the correct exposure although it seems even if the numbers are correct the photo still might not be where it needs to be as to sharpness or IF? Input please- not thin skinned at all- but very little experience and trying to learn. FYI these were hand held shots.

Canon 20D Sigma 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 DC AF OS

1/4s f/8 ISO 800 FL 42mm

1/15s f/4.5 ISO 800 FL 42mm

Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA

I see definite camera movement on first image (1/4-sec). See first enlargement below, from top center of image.

Second image (1/15-sec) is significantly more steady. See second enlargement below.

At this slow shutter speed, you should be using a tripod, and even mirror lock-up.

1/4- second

1/15-second

Tooth Maker Loc: North Carolina

Nikonian72 wrote:

1

Could you clarify please the response "1". I really respect your work and opinions.

Andrew

Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA

Tooth Maker wrote:

Nikonian72 wrote:

1

Could you clarify please the response "1". I really respect your work and opinions.

The "1" was just to hold my place as first responder while I copied, cropped, and posted examples.
Now you know my secret. (Don't tell anybody!)

Tooth Maker Loc: North Carolina

Nikonian72 wrote:

I see definite camera movement on first image (1/4-sec). See first enlargement below, from top center of image.

Second image (1/15-sec) is significantly more steady. See second enlargement below.

At this slow shutter speed, you should be using a tripod, and even mirror lock-up.

You are such a great help. Would it have been possible to crank up the ISO to get an acceptable shot or not.

Thank you soo much Douglass for your constructive input. I feel like I can learn a lot from people like you.

Andrew

Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA

Tooth Maker wrote:

Would it have been possible to crank up the ISO to get an acceptable shot or not.

I am not familiar with Canon, but I think you could have easily double your ISO to 1600, or even to 2000. This would allow better DOF with a smaller aperture. I would not recommend hand-holding anything slower that "1/lens length" (1/44-sec?).

Three recommendations: Tripod, tripod, tripod!

With a tripod, you can shoot much smaller aperture at much longer shutter speed to obtain proper exposure with decent DOF.

Tooth Maker Loc: North Carolina

Nikonian72 wrote:

I see definite camera movement on first image (1/4-sec). See first enlargement below, from top center of image.

Second image (1/15-sec) is significantly more steady. See second enlargement below.

At this slow shutter speed, you should be using a tripod, and even mirror lock-up.

To be technically correct, does one need to be no less than say 1/50s handheld at 42mm FL to get a sharp shot?

Tooth Maker Loc: North Carolina

Nikonian72 wrote:

quote=Tooth Maker Would it have been possible to... (show quote)

Would it be fair to say it is more difficult to be spontaneous when having to use a tripod? This might be asking the obvious but I am a newbie.

Tooth Maker Loc: North Carolina

Nikonian72 wrote:

quote=Tooth Maker Would it have been possible to... (show quote)

I apologize I didn't see your post about lens length/ speed before I asked another question.

Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA

Tooth Maker wrote:

Would it be fair to say it is more difficult to be spontaneous when having to use a tripod? This might be asking the obvious but I am a newbie.

Are you happy with your "spontaneous" results?

Even a monopod would do better than your hand-held results. I have a monopod strapped to my camera backpack at all times, just in case I want to get "spontaneous". As a macro-photographer using a ringflash, I rarely use my monopod.

Tooth Maker Loc: North Carolina

Nikonian72 wrote:

Tooth Maker wrote:

Would it be fair to say it is more difficult to be spontaneous when having to use a tripod? This might be asking the obvious but I am a newbie.

Are you happy with your "spontaneous" results?

Even a monopod would do better than your hand-held results. I have a monopod strapped to my camera backpack at all times, just in case I want to get "spontaneous". As a macro-photographer using a ringflash, I rarely use my monopod.

As to the point of my experience and knowledge, I can't say I am satisfied.

I only allude to Ken Rockwell stating that he doesn't shoot 95+% with a tripod and gets good results. I don't know him or his work. He is just a product of the internet for people that are searching for photographic information. I don't know him from most other well known names that are referenced when looking for photo info.

I have looked at your work at your listed websites and I like what I see. I don't question your recommendations from doubt but from seeking knowledge of photography.

Regards,

Andrew

photoman315

Most people can hold a camera steady at 1/60 second. Maybe with a normal lens, 1/30 second. Remember that when you use a telephoto lens, you magnify the movement and the image too. I would suggest using a tripod or mono pod when you shoot on telephoto or at speeds slower than 1/30 of a second.

Adirondack Hiker Loc: Southern Adirondacks

Tooth Maker wrote:

Nikonian72 wrote:

I see definite camera movement on first image (1/4-sec). See first enlargement below, from top center of image.

Second image (1/15-sec) is significantly more steady. See second enlargement below.

At this slow shutter speed, you should be using a tripod, and even mirror lock-up.

To be technically correct, does one need to be no less than say 1/50s handheld at 42mm FL to get a sharp shot?

Yes, even with VR on, a good rule of thumb is exposure should be 1/focal length, so for 42 mm 1/50 sec would work. For 300 mm, 1/300 is pushing it, 1/450 would be better.

dpaden Loc: Homewood, Alabama

If you turn IS on on your lens, the 1/15 can be sharper, but 1/4 is really pushing it. I have known people who could handhold a clear shot at 1/4 but not me unless I am proping against something.

There is an old photographers trick that will give the benefit of a reverse monopod. Get a small chain from Home Depot and put a bolt on one end that will screw into the tripod hole on the bottom of your camera. Screw the bolt and chain to bottom of camera. Put the camera at eye level and put your foot on the other end of the chain. Then put tension on the chain. This steady the camera a good bit and rule out all vertical movemen and help you concentrate on less horizontal movements. You can carry the chain in your pocket.

Tooth Maker Loc: North Carolina

dpaden wrote:

If you turn IS on on your lens, the 1/15 can be sh... (show quote)

Thanks for the tip.